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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1848  
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Hiya,
Just seen these posts. By coincidence I stumbled across this lad's videos at the weekend. He has a lot.... lots and lots of videos. This one: is about the heater. He's doing something really complicated and turning a RHD heater into a LHD one, and modifying the dash heater chamber - there's a whole series of videos involved. At the beginning of this one though, it shows how the heater/cold flap works better than I managed in my photos. To answer your question though, if by 'direction vent' you mean the demist/footwell lever, closest to the driver's window, then the cable from there doesn't go to the heater box at all, but into the big lower dash chamber. It operates flaps inside that chamber. Other videos in the series above will show you what the inside of that chamber looks like, and how the control flaps work. I was also thinking about the whole heat measurement thing. The absolute maximum temperature is obviously going to be wholly dependent on the thermostat and the engine. So it's not a surprise that your reading was similar to mine. What will be different - and I can't think of a way to measure this - is the AMOUNT of hot air that can be generated at these temperatures. This is where I think the upgraded matrix must make a difference. More hot water in the matrix = more hot air able to be generated. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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7th Mar 2018 1:25pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1848
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Yep - fan speed control does operate the bulkhead flap and the motor.
Summer....? .... hot....? I dearly hope so! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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7th Mar 2018 4:20pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5864  
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Cheers. I think I will also check I am getting full opening of the flap as well. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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7th Mar 2018 6:07pm |
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| Ramsay Member Since: 30 Sep 2015 Location: Moffat, Dumfries & Galloway Posts: 629  
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Any advice on adjusting the heater control cable. I can set mine to be fully open and it is hot. A few cycles from cold to hot and back it barely moves the lever to warm. There seems a lot of slack in the inner cable. 1995 Defender 110 CSW
1971 SIIA Lightweight |
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2nd Apr 2018 9:16pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1848
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^^ are you absolutely sure the cable clamp is working properly? Maybe the thread on the little bolt is damaged, so it's becoming tight to turn and making you think it's nipped up, but in fact is not clamping the inner cable? That's one thing I'd check based on what you're describing.
Coupled to that maybe the flap inside the box is stuck? So that you're having to use more force than you should be, and therefore overcoming the cable clamp?? Just a couple of thoughts for what they might be worth. D Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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3rd Apr 2018 6:42pm |
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| Ramsay Member Since: 30 Sep 2015 Location: Moffat, Dumfries & Galloway Posts: 629
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Hi Donald
Thanks but not those. Checked that cable is clamped and the free end stays the same length. Without the cable connector the arm for the flap valve moves freely. The slack is inside the length of the Bowden cable to the heater temp lever. Has anybody had to shorten these or check routing to get it to work freely. It goes through the bulkhead right at the back of the instrument panel so it is not the easiest of things to check the run of it. 1995 Defender 110 CSW 1971 SIIA Lightweight |
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5th Apr 2018 3:59pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1848
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Hi Ramsay,
Thinking about that, if the cable is properly fixed at both ends, then the only way to get the symptoms you're describing is for the outer cable to be stretching hugely, or to be split, allowing the inner cable to escape outwards. Not sure what car you have, if it's something basic like a tdi, then getting the clocks out and access to the cables isn't that difficult. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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6th Apr 2018 9:38pm |
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| Mermaidspool Member Since: 05 May 2018 Location: Solihull Posts: 5 
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Hi Don. Have you looked at a eberspacher diesel heater. I have just fitted one under the passenger seat. Very effective and programmable. Trick but well within diy capability.
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6th May 2018 4:43pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1848
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Hiya,
I've looked at them from time to time. Once upon a time I had a Kenlowe 'hot start' fitted to try and bring the coolant up to temp before a cold start. I think that was in the old RR with a 200tdi engine. Might have had it on the Defender briefly. But in any event, I now have my heated seats fitted, and the wiring in place for a heated windscreen. And, once the new chassis and sills are on, and the doors all properly aligned, I'm going to go through the car in some detail plugging up all the places where I might be getting a draught in. If, after all that I'm still feeling the cold then I might look at one of these. The cost has always been something of a disincentive. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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6th May 2018 5:38pm |
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| Mermaidspool Member Since: 05 May 2018 Location: Solihull Posts: 5
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Hi No problem. If you ha e de ide give me a shout as you can 1/2 the time from my mistakes.
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6th May 2018 7:16pm |
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| Terry Member Since: 20 Nov 2017 Location: wales Posts: 19 
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Now here's a strange one for you.
This is what I have done on my 110 td5. Under the bonnet on the heat shield which covers the exhaust manifold drill a 2" hole I the side which faces the wing. Next drill a 2" hole in the plastic air intake for the Heater making sure the holes are in line . Using approximately 10-12 inches of flexible ali corrugated pipe join the 2 holes. Depending on how much hot air you require you can partially bloke the fresh air intake on top of the wing. You are now mixing hot air from around the turbo into your heating system. Be aware this gets exceptionally hot so you need to ensure you don't totally seal the wing top vent. Also make sure your exhaust manifold or components are not leaking or you will get gassed. But no cost best heating a landrover can have. |
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9th May 2018 11:13am |
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