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Surrey Rover



Member Since: 20 Dec 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 360

You can buy a run off system that will keep the engine running for a further X number of seconds (user definable) once you have removed the keys and locked the doors, I believe this is only available to geezers though and Max Power subscribers.

Having been a fan of turbos for many years I understood the need to continue running the engine went after manufacturers starting installing a second pump. Clearly it being a Land Rover there probably is no second pump (being a mecahnical numpty I couldn't confirm this).

Being not only a mechanical numpty but very unsympathetic I have never done this in any of the TD5's I have owned and have never suffered any turbo damage whatsoever.
Post #62886 9th Mar 2011 7:46am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2645

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Surrey Rover wrote:
You can buy a run off system that will keep the engine running for a further X number of seconds (user definable) once you have removed the keys and locked the doors


Illegal in South Africa, not sure about other countries? --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #62887 9th Mar 2011 7:51am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582

United Kingdom 
Declaration, I am not a mechanic, nor do I pretend to be a mechanic so a few questions.

What temperature does the turbo work at?

What temperature does oil vapourise at? Does the oil become 'pressurised' in the turbo which could raise the vapourisation temperature.

What is the thermal mass of the turbo?


Reason being I am struggling to understand that the temperature can cool sufficiently in 10 seconds from being a safe high working temperature to a safer lower switching off temperature. Either those two temperatures are very close together, the thermal mass is small or?????

So can someone please explain it to me in simple terms?

Or is it nothing to do with temperature but just about letting the turbo 'spin down' gradually under 'controlled' conditions?

Yes I am an IT numpity and mechanically inept.


Brendan
Post #62888 9th Mar 2011 8:17am
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spudfan



Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4709

Ireland 
Wait until the wife stops talking-and hope you don't run out of fuel first. Very Happy 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai
Post #62908 9th Mar 2011 9:46am
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Marius



Member Since: 21 Dec 2010
Location: South Africa
Posts: 231

South Africa 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
MartinK wrote:
The manual states:
Quote:
"Stopping the engine
• Always allow the engine to idle for 10
seconds before switching off."


This tells me again it has to do with lubrication of the bearings, not cooling. (you not gonna cool anything really in 10 seconds). Turbo blades these day's are manufactured from materials that are desighned to withstand high temperature gradients and resist warp.
Post #62910 9th Mar 2011 9:53am
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double cab happy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2009
Location: merseyside
Posts: 573

England 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Java Black
i only ever bother when at motor way services, but that could be me trying to get the courage up to face the bloody prices.
Post #62916 9th Mar 2011 10:47am
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