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Scandihoovian



Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Scandia
Posts: 9

TD5 shaking when going into idle. Trouble shooting ideas?
So, I have a weird and slightly annoying issue.

2004 110 TD5, 195k km.

Engine runs and pulls relatively normally, no misfires, smoke of any kind etc but when revs go down towards idle, the engine starts shaking for few seconds before stabilizing to normal.
When starting cold no shaking is observed when running.

Like: slowing down, gear in neutral, revs go down, you stop, shaking starts when revs hit idle, shakes for 3-5 seconds, then normal.

A lot of gremlins lately in the engine.

- Head gaskets were done 6000km ago (previous owners/shops repairs failed due to shop using the old screws...)
- Fuel Pressure regulator changed 10k ago
- Injector nro 3 changed (to a used one by a reputable shop) 5000k ago
- MAP, MAF checked, ok.
- Fuel filter changed
- Wiring loom changed when the head was done, no oil in ECU
- CPS changed (there were a slight amount of metal shavings in the magnet)


As said engine runs well, starts well, pulls normally, no symptoms when higher revs, no leaks apart from a minimal one close to braided turbo hose...
Clutch is a bit shot with slight symptoms (spigot bearing whine) but still works quite well.


Any takes and guesses? Fuel pump crapping the bucket, injectors not sorted out or something going on in the camshaft area?
Post #640521 29th Jul 2017 1:43pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1763

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
Do you remember it not having the issue? They have a funny two level idle, it holds a high idle, then drops a bit lower after a few seconds.
Post #640523 29th Jul 2017 1:50pm
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Scandihoovian



Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Scandia
Posts: 9

Pretty sure it started doing it 2 months ago. After the headgasket rebuild it was storaged for 3 months and got back into the road in april. In may injector was changed. I started really noticing it couple of weeks ago.
As said, I cant notice the shaking when the engine is warming up (from cold to normal running temps). But when the engine has been driven for, say, 30mins I start to notice it.

Engine shakes relatively strongly for 3-5 seconds then calms down and purrs like a normal TD5. I cant remember if it has been ever wobbling longer than the 5 secs. It is not like the engine is tearing itself loose but strong enough that one goes Wtf???
It just doesnt belong there.
Post #640526 29th Jul 2017 2:01pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1763

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
Sounds like an injector mismatch, or injectors put back in the wrong places. Do you have access to a nanocom or similar?
Post #640529 29th Jul 2017 2:17pm
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Scandihoovian



Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Scandia
Posts: 9

Nope, sadly I dont..
The nro.3 injector (violet?) was changed 2 months ago by the same shop as did the new head gasket job.
Around here they are perhaps the most reputable shop around, and I assumed they would have done the matching and/or recoding if that would have been required...and it might be that they havent?

The symptoms could match to that, or?
Post #640531 29th Jul 2017 2:25pm
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superspy



Member Since: 10 Sep 2010
Location: Athens
Posts: 11

Greece 2003 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
I just answer to another member about.

Hope this helps, as I was having the same problem some years back...

There is a possibility for a rough idle, when you are breaking and coming to stop that settles after 10-30 seconds.

This was happening because the springs inside the flywheel were becoming very soft.
As flywheel is dual mass and the position pick up takes reading from the flywheel, and the RPMs where dropping from traveling to stop the flywheel was having small vibrations (you dont feel it) and until the flywheel was settling to the new RPMs the idle was rough because of this small play, making the pickup to have intermittent readings.

The idle was playing between 750-950 and making vibrations to the car. (Nanocom readings)


I have change the flywheel and everything was ok. Having the flywheels (new and old) on hands, you couldnt feel the difference.


I hope this helps. www.off-road.gr
Post #643489 12th Aug 2017 5:40pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
^^^ As above, suspect the DMF Wink 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #643498 12th Aug 2017 6:21pm
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achuakh



Member Since: 12 Apr 2012
Location: Singapore
Posts: 158

Singapore 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
do a little test.

drive the car and let it warm up. then after than do an emergency brake hard and see if it makes a difference when going from over 1500 rpm to idle when you screech to a halt. this will confirm the DMF theory. From the land of the most expensive land rover defenders on planet earth. At �125k for a XS 110 csw and you get to own it only for 10yrs! Please find me a good reason to stay on this island.
Post #645059 19th Aug 2017 3:33pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2168

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
ian series 1 wrote:
^^^ As above, suspect the DMF Wink


Unlikely. My old 90 had a brand new Valeo clutch, DMF and Ashcroft box still did it, funnily enough on the old worn clutch and DMF it did not.

My 110 does it too, pretty sure its the origial dmf/clutch

The TD5 seems o have a "high idle" and "low idle" depending. Both my TD5s do high idle when on a slight incline near my house but not on flat roads or when parking up.
Post #645116 19th Aug 2017 8:07pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
Mine does it and considering that there's over 200K now on the original clutch and DMF it is a possibility but I also have a trait where if I park on a slight nearside slope such as at the kerb on a road with a decent camber it will start but is really sluggish to pull away and you could well be into second gear with your foot flat to the floor before it will pick up and drive like normal. It's meant that I have to park somewhere else and not right outside my fravourite chip shop as it can be embarrassing pulling out into the traffic with my chips Rolling Eyes
Post #645136 19th Aug 2017 9:01pm
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Scandihoovian



Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Scandia
Posts: 9

achuakh wrote:
do a little test.

drive the car and let it warm up. then after than do an emergency brake hard and see if it makes a difference when going from over 1500 rpm to idle when you screech to a halt. this will confirm the DMF theory.


Thx for the tip, will try tomorrow!
Post #645186 20th Aug 2017 7:29am
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Scandihoovian



Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Scandia
Posts: 9

Well, it seems dropping from higher revs to idle often causes shaking. 3-4 seconds of wobble and then things evens out.
Seems to be more pronounced after longer driving (warmed up engine & clutch), the car does not shake that much or at all when cold. Albeit the engine runs a bit unevenly for the first 1-2 minutes after a cold start.

Oh well, mystery continues.


Wonder if it would be the DMF, can it cause some damage if left unfixed? Like to the crankshaft/transfercase etc?
Curious if I should get the clutch fixed pronto or drive the car until it falls apart...?
Post #646522 27th Aug 2017 7:33am
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achuakh



Member Since: 12 Apr 2012
Location: Singapore
Posts: 158

Singapore 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Oslo Blue
I also notice that the way the "torque curve" in the tune of the engine affects this.

I had this issue before and it would hunt around for 2 seconds before going into smooth idle when I come to a hard stop. I have changed the flywheel the clutch the fuel pump the crank sensor and connector and finally the torque curve in my map and it's all good.

I believe the balance of the fly wheel does have much to play and the torque curve of how much fuel is injected to get a consistent idle but it can be a whole bunch of things that you can play with as they are all linked. Another thing is to raise the engine idle speed by 30 rpm and that helps.

Most significant change was when the fly wheel is new. When you have a tuned engine, the fly wheel seems to work a lot harder and wears out faster.

Hope it went well for you. From the land of the most expensive land rover defenders on planet earth. At �125k for a XS 110 csw and you get to own it only for 10yrs! Please find me a good reason to stay on this island.
Post #647740 2nd Sep 2017 10:47am
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