 | Home > Technical > Aschroft half shaft with HD Paddock drive flange problem |
 
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| Neilios Member Since: 01 Nov 2017 Location: Co. Durham Posts: 169   
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How didn't they fail? Did the splines strip? Howe many miles and were they original spec? Sorry for all the questions just looking to replace mine.
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6th Nov 2017 9:39pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17532  
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Fretting on the splines leading ultimately to failure. I got through two sets of genuine flanges and shafts before fitting the Ashcroft HD flanges and shafts, and the most recent change (to genuine one-piece shafts - oh, the cost, the cost
 ) came because of damage to the inboard end of the shafts due to a tribological problem within the axle, which cost me the shafts and ATB. 
IIRC the first failure (original flange and shaft) came at about 60k miles, the second (genuine flange and shaft)at about 120k, and the HD shafts etc came out at 210k miles. So around 60k each for the genuine parts, at least 100k for the Ashcroft, and these would have been fine for a lot longer still but for the lubrication problem. |
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7th Nov 2017 9:25am |
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| BenB8man Member Since: 22 Mar 2017 Location: Norfolk Posts: 429
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I personally found quite excessive play on the rear drive flanges on my 110 Puma at 30k. I've since replaced the flanges but left the half shafts alone. When I fitted the Ashcroft flanges there was a nice tight fit between the parts and eliminated all backlash (except for the adaptor shaft in the gearbox, but thats a different story).
I've pushed a load of grease in there am am tempted to add grease nipples so I can force more in to reduce any fretting between the different hardness metals. So far after 10k on original halfs and Ashcroft flanges I've had no wear, so I think they should last ok! Depends on your budget I guess. Whats this tribological problem you speak of Roger?  |
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7th Nov 2017 10:51am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17532
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My axle ingested water, and I didn't realise unitl too late.
Watery emulsion + ATB + high mileages = substantial bill
Made worse by that fact that it is entirely my fault. |
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7th Nov 2017 1:24pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8148  
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i have ashcroft shafts front and rear with std drive members and change the DM regularly! Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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7th Nov 2017 2:28pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20571
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My original shafts and equipment have began to fail at 65k, so sounds about right. 100k on the Ashcroft kit makes for good reading! I've only done 54k in 8 years so at that rate should be sorted for years.  KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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22nd Jul 2018 12:59pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20571
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Been chatting with Opie today regarding oil.
D44 used Fuchs Syntac which is commercial and in commercial quantity so I can't get that. They (Opie Oils) recommended this: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-983-fuchs-tit...r-oil.aspx I take it that one is fine for the 2.4 Puma, and I only need 2L volume required for diff according to WSM is 1.7L. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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23rd Jul 2018 4:52pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17532
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Should be ok, it does say suitable for high offset hypoid drives even though not marked EP, so I can't see any problem.
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23rd Jul 2018 6:32pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20571
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Thank-you for the extra clarification. Always helps greatly.
Nearly there now to crack on with the front flanges, just waiting for goods to arrive. Rear halfshafts won't be long to follow either.  KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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23rd Jul 2018 7:22pm |
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| oneten110 Member Since: 02 Jul 2011 Location: Wish I was still in France Posts: 741
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I have had Ashcroft shafts, CV joints and drive members on mine for about 10 years now. No problems whatsoever, apart from them not being shiny any more.
When I fitted them I also took the opportunity to remove the stub axle oil seals, thus enabling oil from the diff to migrate along the shaft and lubricate everything. Just like Land Rover did prior to about umm 1994 |
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24th Jul 2018 12:03pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20571
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Did you do that just on the rear only? Ashcroft seem to mention removing the seal on the rear but don't say anything regarding the front.
I'm assuming removing the seal isn't difficult, the trouble is with greasing is the regularity required and over autumn, winter and spring it's not easy for me due to the weather conditions and no garage. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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24th Jul 2018 12:19pm |
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| oneten110 Member Since: 02 Jul 2011 Location: Wish I was still in France Posts: 741
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My front axle is a bit of a bar steward. The case is from a 300Tdi, the diff is a 4 pin unit, the stubs/hubs/swivel housings are from a 1984 One_Ten, the swivels are from a 300Tdi.
However, to answer your question, none of my stub axles have seals in them. Removal of the seal is not difficult, it is all the other stuff you have to remove in order to take the stub axle off that makes it a relatively protracted job |
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24th Jul 2018 3:38pm |
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