 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Heater query |
 
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 765  
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Yes you can just joint the two pipes together and no removing the heater-box is not a difficult job, you just need long arms to undo the bolts that pass through the top of the footwell.
When it is off you will probably find some areas that will need attention but with all that access it is the ideal time to get it sorted (the heater-box can trap leaves etc which can sit on top of the footwell and hold moisture). You will need new foam seals when re-fitting the heater but these are cheap to buy. Check the heater-box itself, they can rot along the bottom plus the matrix can corrode. When re-assembling the heater-box make sure you seal internally to prevent air bypassing the matrix (you will understand when you have it apart). Finally, when you have been poking around the internals you will have a good understanding of how it all works and how the controls operate the flaps, setting the heater control cables correctly can have a MASSIVE impact on the performance of the heater and is often the easiest thing to do when it comes to increasing heater output. ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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2nd Aug 2017 7:35pm |
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| Barneyboy Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Exmoor Posts: 1627 
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Hi Litch thank you very much for you're informative answer,it's much appreciated.im hoping to do it in a couple of weeks when Tash is away for a week so it will be a good time to tackle it but still need to be able to use as Tash is taking our other car,regarding the foam seal is it best to get a genuine one many thanks
 Paul Tash n Barney |
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3rd Aug 2017 5:11am |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 765
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No need for genuine seals, aftermarket ones are fine (there are two, one between the heater & bulkhead and a second between the intake duct & heater). ONE LIFE, GET IT!
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3rd Aug 2017 7:57pm |
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| Barneyboy Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Exmoor Posts: 1627
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Hi Litch thank you for pointing that out I only thought there was the bulkhead to heater seal,I will get them both ordered before I start the job
many thanks Paul Tash n Barney |
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4th Aug 2017 5:05am |
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| Barneyboy Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Exmoor Posts: 1627
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Hi well I've stripped out the heater this morning not a bad job at all I just needed a helping hand to undo the two lower bolts,I was pleasantly surprised with what was lurking underneath the heater box,there were 3 holes 2 small ones and one about 1 1/2" long so i fitted a couple of different grade flap wheels to my drill and cleaned the area up to bare metal then used my Dremel to get in to get back the whole area to bare metal,cleaned it all afterwards then filled the holes with Devcon I've got to say this is an amazing product it went on nice and easily I left it to set for 6 +hours and have now sanded it back with a small flap wheel then my dremel im very pleased with how it's come out I'm hopefully going to get some paint on it tomorrow (weather permitting)and hopefully get the seals this week to refit the heater which while I was waiting for the Devcon to set I wire wool'd the fan casing which had very light surface rust and then cleaned and primered it before painting it,
Paul Tash n Barney |
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5th Aug 2017 5:27pm |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 765
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Did you open the heater-box to see what condition it is in internally?
I know you have painted it but it is just a row of pop-rivets, a look now could save you having to take it out sometime in the future. ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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5th Aug 2017 8:37pm |
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| Barneyboy Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Exmoor Posts: 1627
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Hi Litch I haven't drilled out the rivets on the heater box as I believe it's a replacement heater (genuine) and the internals I can see look to be in excellent condition including the matrix it was just a little bit of light surface rust on the fan casing, many thanks for all you're help and advice with this job it's much appreciated
Paul Tash n Barney |
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6th Aug 2017 6:53am |
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