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Gray73



Member Since: 27 Mar 2014
Location: Folkestone, Kent
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 
MY14 110 Rear Brake Rattle
Can anyone help me before I top myself. The latest Land Rover 'built in' defect that I need to contend with on my (3 year old just out of warranty) 110 is the rear brake pad rattle that is driving me slightly insane. I know the topic has been discussed before but I'm not sure there is a definitive fix? If it wasn't for the Land Rover disease I obviously have I'd have got sensible and purchased a Toyota Land Cruiser....... I don't mean that of course, I love my vehicle, but could the boys at Land Rover have not built in so many design defects for me to spend my hard earned cash fixing? Perhaps this is part of the 'joy' of owning a Defender, the constant heartache, worry, and slim wallet Laughing Big Cry ..... I probably wouldn't be so emotional had my lovely machine not locked me out and refused to go anywhere one evening recently, and made the friendly AA man, after 2 hrs trying to get the thing un-immobilised, tow me and it to the nearest LR dealer at 20mph. There must be a cure to my rattling brake pads?????
Post #636971 11th Jul 2017 6:17pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3641

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
think the rear pads are held in with two split pins and an anti-rattle plate, parts are cheap and easily replaced would take less the 1 hour and should cure your rattle, might be time to do the pads as well DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #636991 11th Jul 2017 7:43pm
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Gray73



Member Since: 27 Mar 2014
Location: Folkestone, Kent
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 
Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure that will solve the issue though having read a few posts on the forum. I know the pads have some decent meat left as it's been into the dealer recently. Apparently this is a common issue on 110's that LR don't yet have a fix for!? I think perhaps I'll take it to my local garage, ask them to work their magic and see what occurs. They sorted the last 'design fault' with my fuel tank breather for £46 plus VAT including steam cleaning the fuel tank area so I'm hopeful they can come up with a fix whatever that may be....fingers crossed. Very Happy
Post #636994 11th Jul 2017 7:50pm
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Biffas



Member Since: 30 Dec 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 122

England 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
lots of copper grease , mine rattled when it was new but when it gets a wear ridge on disc it should stop mine is a 2014 with 20000 miles on the clock and they rattled like mad when new but did stop.
Post #637000 11th Jul 2017 8:11pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
I wonder if they forgot to put the springs back in when they fitted the new pads.
Post #637012 11th Jul 2017 8:43pm
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Nevillerover



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 224

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
I've had two or three 110s and they've all rattled. New springs and copper grease work for a bit.
Not putting my hearing aids in and keeping the windows up makes mine like a Rolls Royce.
Post #637016 11th Jul 2017 8:47pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The rattle is a design feature to reassure you that the calipers haven't seized yet. When the rattle stops, you need to attend to the brakes.

Fitting stronger anti-rattle springs may help, and the usual "fix" is to run a bead of weld along the edge of the pad and then file the bead so that the pad is a good sliding fit in the caliper. Is it worth it? Probably not. Pragmatic solution, turn up the radio and ignore the rattle.
Post #637036 11th Jul 2017 9:27pm
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Gray73



Member Since: 27 Mar 2014
Location: Folkestone, Kent
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 
Thanks for the tips all. I'll get myself onto Amazon when I get to work and buy myself some earplugs!! Maybe I'll call LR and advise them my complimentary set weren't in the vehicle when I got it Laughing
Post #637071 12th Jul 2017 4:22am
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
here's a thought, these calipers are the same design used on the TD5, they probably rattled on the TD5 too, it' just you couldn't hear them over the rest of the noise!
Post #637091 12th Jul 2017 8:27am
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Gray73



Member Since: 27 Mar 2014
Location: Folkestone, Kent
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 
Annoyingly it's only started happening recently, it's just over 3 years old, circa 35k miles, and still on the first set of brake pads. Perhaps when the pads need to be changed it will go away again until they are worn. They still have meat on them because it went into LR recently and they gave me a report which included details of brake wear etc....... I'll close the window and put my earplugs on Confused
Post #637092 12th Jul 2017 8:32am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Mine has just started rattling again because I have fitted new (genuine) pads, the old worn pads had stopped rattling.

I think that the rattle is caused by the pads bouncing up and down in the calipers. The weld solution I described above works by making the pads a better fit in the caliper slots, but a build-up of dirt and grot can have the same effect. I suspect that vehicles that work hard and in grubby conditions rattle less than the washed and polished sub-species for this reason.

I have found that genuine pads are less likely to rattle that others (and also far less likely to squeal and shriek under braking, which is a more irritating but widespread problem), but I have also found that stronger anti-rattle springs can have the desired effect, the only problem with this is finding a suitable spring (this is of course the spring that fits round each retaining pin). You certainly don't want to re-use the old springs when fitting new pads, since they will have deteriorated - always use new springs. Stretching them before fitting can help and will sometimes have the deried effect.

Clearly if you do fit stronger springs they mustn't be so strong that they retract the piston into the caliper, although it is extremely unlikely that it would be possible to fit a spring this strong in the space available.
Post #637099 12th Jul 2017 9:29am
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