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| meeerrrk Member Since: 12 Feb 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 548   
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After developing a wheel wobble above 60mph I studied and studied, watched countless videos and read many guides and today i decided to check and reshim the swivel bearing pins.
Unfortunately it didn't go to plan and now my Defender is undrivable: either the bearing has collapsed or I have somehow damaged it myself, but there are 2 rollers missing from the cage, and I can only assume they are in the grease inside the swivel housing just waiting to cause a huge problem as soon as I drive it. Here's what I was faced with on closer inspection;  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I Managed to fish the race out and straightened it up in the outer race, so the pin could be refitted correctly and put it back together. I have Safari Engineering in Eversley on my doorstep and so I guess the only option (with my lack of defender knowledge) is to take it there ASAP. My question is, do you suggest I have it recovered there or risk driving it (slowly) - it's 4 miles from home. Final question, when it's apart to be inspected and the missing rollers dug out, what other parts should I aim to have replaced? I was thinking about front discs, wheel bearing...anything else? Cheers, (a very sad) Mark  My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html |
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15th Apr 2017 10:21pm |
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| Welshsurferdude Member Since: 23 Feb 2012 Location: Newport Posts: 2426 
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I cant imagine that affecting your brake discs or wheel bearings but id say seeing as you have 2 days of bank hols you may as well strip it and redo the bearings? 2008 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold)
2015 Discovery 4.5 Black pack Firenze red XS 2008 Corris Grey 110 XS USW (sold) 2011 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold) |
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15th Apr 2017 11:22pm |
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| meeerrrk Member Since: 12 Feb 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 548
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It won't affect it no, but the question was more
"While it's apart, what else is worth doing now?" My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html |
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16th Apr 2017 12:39am |
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| meeerrrk Member Since: 12 Feb 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 548
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Agentmulder, thanks for the help. It made sense don't worry!
I'm tempted to do it myself but I can't help feel I'm out of my depth having not really worked on the defender before (only recently purchased it). Which manufacturer of swivel kit did you use? My swivel balls are fine so I need the rebuild kit but no ball. Should the wheel bearings be replaced if it's apart, most tutorials I see they reuse the old bearings. Mine being a later defender has the single nut hub nut which should be torqued to 210nm - do you happen to know what size socket is needed for that nut? Thanks for the advice My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html |
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16th Apr 2017 8:38am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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With a 2010 on average miles and not too much hard use (your swivels are fine) I'd question the need to replace the bearings, maybe just plan to clean them out and repack with grease, you can inspect as you do and swap out if need be.
I am located in NZ, so the 'if need be' takes at least a week in terms of postage from the UK for most parts (although bearings would likely be locally available), so I just took a punt they'd need replacing, but they looked mint (2007 with pitted swivels) - they are my spares now - but I doubt I'll ever need them. This latency in terms of part availability is obviously not an issue for you! The 210Nm is for the stake nut which ideally is a consumable one-use only part, but if push comes to a post-apocalypse scenario I think most of us can figure out ways to make them happen twice or thrice - but better yet to think about changing to the older 2 nut system which is much more civilised and doesn't depend on expensive colour coded spacers that get mixed up and put back in the wrong wheels. Might be a bit more tweaking to get the bearing under just the right amount of load, but no need to either guess torques (if your only wrench is a 40-200Nm), search for it... Either way socket is 52mm, you'll need a 'deep-socket' type, preferably in 1/2" as that's likely what you have (right?) - example here: http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/4884 As for parts, I didn't get many kits as such - I wanted to try to optimise those genuine parts options that happened to be cheap (Corteco seals for instance) and also make informed decisions to on the big ticket parts involved - all brake parts were genuine, but things like tab washers, shims, gaskets and metal 'thingos' I was happy with cheaper. I got 'britparted'* on the swivels and flanges, but as in turns out they both looked like and have since proved to be quality units (which cannot be said for other Britpart offerings). I digress, basically a lot of reading up of parts diagrams and the WSM, oh and the Land Rover Tool Box youtube channel gives you a good look at what you'll be doing, the forces and tools involved and bodges to get around stuff the WSM doesn't explain. Have a look, even if you don't go ahead at least you can go in to a mechanic and know if they're  you or not 
*sent parts that were otherwise indicated to be genuine, or at least not specifically Britpart. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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16th Apr 2017 9:17am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
top swivel bearing kit with ABS part no. TAR100050
Click image to enlarge top swivel bearing kit with out ABS part no. TAR100040
bottom swivel bearing part on 606666G timken
more part will be needed but this very much dependent on how you strip to work on it https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams...sing_44788 Last edited by dorsetsmith on 16th Apr 2017 9:54am. Edited 6 times in total |
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16th Apr 2017 9:22am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Actually those parts numbers sound familiar... I think I went Bearmach there.
For what it's worth and in case you don't know if you have it or not (some don't!) your CV looks like it has the ABS 'teeth', but mine without TC/ABS had the same in it anyway - best to look at the brake servo or see if any cables run down next to the brake lines, or your order form Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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16th Apr 2017 9:27am |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1231 
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meeerrrk if you need a hand I'm only down the road in Tongham and have all the tools required (unless there's a special tool).
Haven't done a swivel bearing but done pretty much everything else so happy working around vehicles. Ed 82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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16th Apr 2017 11:49am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
one special tool ( spring balance to test Swivel Bearing pre load )
1.16kg to 1.46 kg |
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16th Apr 2017 12:14pm |
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| meeerrrk Member Since: 12 Feb 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 548
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Thank you for all the information gentlemen - very helpful indeed.
Sako, very kind offer I might just take you up on that ! Paddocks have a suitable socket for the wheel bearing. I think the complication of wheel bearing is something I can do without at the moment so will aim to repackage and refit current. I am seriously tempted to do this myself, I can strip it off the Defender on the drive and take it to my shed to clean, disassemble and reasonable. However to add to the confusion and problem, I have a builder starting quite major work on the house on Monday (24th) so it's this week / weekend or nothing. I'm going to pop down to Safari engineering on Tuesday morning, explain the situation and see what they can do, and when. I'm due to take it to them on Monday for a totally unrelated job, so I hope they can spend some time on it straight away if required. My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html |
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16th Apr 2017 5:40pm |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1231
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Wheel bearings are pretty trivial, I've done 6 in the last 4 months, got I down to about 30 minutes with tea break. If you want to borrow it I've got a 52mm deep impact socket you're welcome to borrow.
I'm popping over to Dunstable tomorrow morning to test drive a car for Mum but apart from shed rearranging should be free the rest of the day. Sisters down so can leave Lyra and Tali behind with her (dogs). Other than that back to work on Tuesday so would have to be evenings. Ed 82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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16th Apr 2017 6:31pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8133  
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you will need to get the rollers out before they damage the bottom bearing when they get mashed up by the CV.
caliper off (13mm on 3/8th with extension prob) drive member off - circlip pliers and 17mm socket 52mm socket remove the stake nut or two hub nuts and lock tab hub off the sub axle (may pull the rear oil seal and you may need new one) stub axle off (17mm) pull CV out with shaft, let oil/grease collect in tray, magnet on a stick to find the missing rollers. remove outer race from top of swivel - set of parallel punches? refit. may need new stake nut or new lock washer loctite torque wrench new caliper bolts new rear oil seal grease to regrease wheel bearings new top king pin setup. having used the newer bearing design as per the links above (with the inner race an integral part of the pin) i have reverted back to using the older setup with a pin in the top housing that then uses a timkin bearing complete. it will have more rollers in it than the ones shown above for starters. its is retrofit able. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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17th Apr 2017 8:14pm |
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| meeerrrk Member Since: 12 Feb 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 548
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James you make it sound so easy...what could possibly go wrong
I agree the rollers need to be fished out ASAP - I wonder if driving it 4 miles to Safari Engineering will be too risky  My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html |
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17th Apr 2017 8:57pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17507 
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With lost rollers loose in the swivel ball, driving 50 yards is too far in my opinion. Quite far enough to do extensive additional damage.
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17th Apr 2017 10:03pm |
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