 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Steering box options and quicker steering... |
 
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But I suppose that I shouldn't be shocked... it's a 29 year old Land Rover product 
| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8049   
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ref recon boxes, i have used Bearmach ones in the past around £180 last time i have used them for last 6 years or so on all wksp work vehicles i have done needing them and own vehicles which are used alot off road.
quick boxes - i think QT do them as higher ratio ones. Smaller steering wheel? Caster corrected arms? or suspension lift? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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5th Apr 2017 8:21am |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1220  
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Paul,
Have you checked over all the bushes? My 110 was wandering all over the place (albeit the steering box is OK) and I'm slowly working my way around all the bushes and it's transforming it. Notably the rear trailing arm bushes (triangular ones) that hold the rear axle on were knackered which causes the rear axle to shimmy around. Similarly the tracking was slightly out which affected things massively. Simple things to check before you have to look into replacing the steering box. Ed 82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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5th Apr 2017 8:56am |
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| pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 
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To be fair at that age a systemic approach would be possibly the way too go! Had a problem with the MG made by rover and in truth it was fair were and tear. I would work though everything in the front end and then when resolved go too the other end! Steering boxes can be resealed, TRE, bushes etc sorted they track well enough too keep up with most in the twisties. Generally though if the box shaft is worn reseal will not last! New would be the way, as how long did first one go! Too my mind if you alter the ratio of the steering you would alter the kick back off road.
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5th Apr 2017 12:53pm |
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| Miggit Member Since: 09 Mar 2017 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 72 
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Well where do I start...
Rear radius arm to chassis were a little worn... approximately a 6mm / 1/4" gap between the outer washer and the rubber.. so they got replaced with polybushes... I was going to do the other end but I didn't have ready access to a press, and while the rubber looked OK the metal outer looked well and truly rusted in... so I sort of put that one off until a better weather day 
I have fitted a set of H/D steering arms / rods with new ball joints, the only original one is the drop arm, but that was still tight to move, so I reckon it's good for a while. I have yet to check the steering shaft UJ's and rubber disc thingy, as it has only just been brought to my attention.. And I'm also going to have a crack at adjusting out the slop in the box too, having had it explained in non Land Rover workshop procedure terms by a couple of pals who have been running Range Rover since they were invented!! They said to adjust out the slop until the steering went a bit tight, on lock to lock, and then back it off a tad until it went free again... Sounds a lot easier that special adapter drives and spring balances, plus it can all stay in the car!!! I was hoping that someone here had knowledge of the longer drop arms, in relation as to waist of time or not, especially with bigger wheels. If all else fails I'll be installing a hand wheel on the car to assist in quicker turning  RRC 2.4 TD... it's either a stretched 90 or shrunken 110!!
ML 270CDI |
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5th Apr 2017 10:44pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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I'm not sure how a longer drop arm could be affected by tyre size?
The main issue with larger tyres is they rub on the radius arm/chassis on full lock, which you can prevent by adjusting the lock stops out a bit further, this does of course reduce the amount of lock you have so therefore reduces the turning circle, but without spacers that's an issue you get with larger tyres regardless of the type of steering as the chassis is the same. |
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5th Apr 2017 11:03pm |
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| Ade90 Member Since: 30 May 2014 Location: Birmingham Posts: 130
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I came across this mod the other day, which may be worth a closer look https://blog.simonbbc.com/2016/06/29/bulld...pas-boxes/ Fixing Land Rovers for over 25 years..........and making excuses to the wife for almost as long
1984 110 V8 - Gone, but not forgotten.... |
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6th Apr 2017 4:33am |
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| Miggit Member Since: 09 Mar 2017 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 72
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That's the very thing!! Only the Ad that I saw said they shouldn't be used with bigger wheels or wheel spacers,
 which I have both, however Bearmach do one and don't say anything about wheel sizes, all they say is it's 20mm longer... So has anyone tried one?? RRC 2.4 TD... it's either a stretched 90 or shrunken 110!!
ML 270CDI |
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6th Apr 2017 9:45pm |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1220
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As a quick trial can you knock up something that bolts onto the existing arm to try it out with the front axle on stands.
I can't think why a longer arm wouldn't work. Been racking my brain as to why but haven't come up with a reason yet Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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6th Apr 2017 10:43pm |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1220
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And if I remember correctly you won't need to adjust the locks as they work on the hubs so are unaffected by the steering arm. The only thing that would affect those is changing the rolling diameter or width of the tyres. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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6th Apr 2017 10:45pm |
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| Pilgrimmick Member Since: 16 Nov 2015 Location: Highlands Posts: 582
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The obvious problem of fitting a longer arm on the box is internal loading. This coupled with larger tyres that will have greater drag when turning (especially when vehicle not moving, ie three point turn) could produce dangerously high loads inside the box, the best way to do this is a purposely designed box.
The existing box will have a lot of adjustment in it to take up slack, if when the vehicle is parked you get more than about an inch of movement in the steering wheel without the wheels moving then look at adjusting the play in the box, it is easy and could save you a lot of cash. 80" 1948 Lightweight V8 Bowler Tomcat 130 Station wagon 90 300tdi (Santana PS10 pick up) Range Rover L322 (Ful fat) |
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7th Apr 2017 8:03am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Which is why i mentioned them as there was a question about fitting larger tyres along with the steering arm. |
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7th Apr 2017 9:58am |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1220
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I seriously doubt that would be an issue. Mine (an Adwest 4 bolt on a 300Tdi 110) regularly gets turned whilst the edges of the tyres are up against a rock face (normal sized tyres at 265/75R16) and the steering box has more than enough strength in it to turn the tyres up and over the face. The pressures generated in the box in that situation (even if you can't turn the tyres) I would imagine would be substantially greater than slightly taller tyres and a slightly longer drop arm. Even if it does eventually have some impact (mine hasn't so far) on the internals Paul's no worse off than where he is at the moment (well minus a steering box) looking for solutions. Ed 82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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7th Apr 2017 11:13am |
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| Michaels Defender Member Since: 16 Aug 2007 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 269 
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I have just replaced my steering box by Bowler to a quick box and I have to say its one of the best mods I have done, quite expensive but well worth it,
Michael |
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7th Apr 2017 9:48pm |
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| Miggit Member Since: 09 Mar 2017 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 72
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I think that slop elimination is the number one priority, and if that is successful then I might give one of those longer arms a try.. Worst case scenario is I trash the weeping steering box and have to replace it.. And if it turns out to be a catch all claim when it should really apply to big foot conversions great!!
After all it says don't use with bigger wheels... I have bigger wheels... 265/75/16... they are a lot bigger than standard Range Rover Classic wheels, which are 205/80/16.... I'm looking to go to 33/12.5/15, yes they are big tyres, but they are only 2" / 50mm wider than std Defender wheels... they aren't some Karlos Fandango Super Wide Wheel Conversion...  Just as well as I knocked smoking on the head
I suppose in the end it's what you get used to, jumping from one car to the other, the RRC's steering is very slow and unresponsive, but I suppose that if I were to drive it for a few days on the trot then the Merc would appear to be nervous and twitchy... I'm just hoping to strike a happy balance between them! RRC 2.4 TD... it's either a stretched 90 or shrunken 110!! ML 270CDI |
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7th Apr 2017 11:00pm |
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