↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Battery kill switch question
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
Lancerdoc999



Member Since: 10 Apr 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 205

United Kingdom 
Battery kill switch question
Hi, I'm wanting to install a kill switch to cut out the ignition. Have a few questions for you.

1. Are they worth doing?

2. I have found a lockable switch with key from durite (pictured below). Would this be ok to use? If it was installed between ignition then assume plenty of amps covered. If I install between battery and rest of vehicle then would this still be ok. If I have something drawing power all the time even when unused then assume this would render that switched off until switch on.




ALTEC AUTOMOTIVE
DURITE 0-605-21
Battery isolator switch with removable security key

Battery isolator switch with removable security key in the "Off" positions.

Rated 150Amps at 12volts & 75 Amps at 24 volts,
200 amps for 5 seconds.
M10 studs and 22.5mm hole.
Supplied with 2 keys.
Ideal for disconnecting the vehicles main battery cable feed to prevent battery discharge

Thanks for advice.
Post #608734 11th Mar 2017 8:57pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Quote:
If I have something drawing power all the time even when unused then assume this would render that switched off until switch on


It will render your security system switched off if you put it far enough upstream Thumbs Up Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #608787 12th Mar 2017 4:26am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Quote:
If I have something drawing power all the time even when unused then assume this would render that switched off until switch on.


Yes, however you can put a small wire between the two terminals with a small fuse, lets say 5 or 10 amp. It'll still supply power to the alarm and radio, but the fuse will blow if someone tries to crank the engine. It depends exactly why you want the isolator though. For security or to prevent battery drain?
Post #608798 12th Mar 2017 7:24am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
HK07



Member Since: 15 Dec 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 746

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Cairns Blue
Hk07
I've been thinking along these lines. However I am thinking of an electronic battery isolator triggered from a hidden switch/key switch/both, their where abouts known only to me. Obviously it's not fool proof, but another layer of security.

I have also been thinking of putting it on the starter motor feed to allow the consumerbles within the vehicle to continue to receive the power they require.

What do we think guys???
Post #608849 12th Mar 2017 12:09pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Lancerdoc999

Q1. Exactly what Defender do you have... Question

The question to ask is what is it you are trying to Isolate (prevent from happening)

If this is Security 'driven'

One approach is to isolate the main power supply from the Battery to the Starter Motor,
in order to maintain power to the Alarm, Central Locking, (if fitted) Ignition, ECU etc

I used a similar switch...
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/prod...tor-switch

You could then also Isolate (separately) the 12V power feed from the Starter Relay to the
Starter Motor, this is the 'trigger feed' to the Starter Motor's S terminal,

Your Starter Motor would then have two Isolation 'features' installed. SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #608862 12th Mar 2017 1:24pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Lancerdoc999



Member Since: 10 Apr 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 205

United Kingdom 
I have a 110 Td5 2000 my. It is purely security driven as need to increase protection on it. I guess main aim is to render it non-startable in event of someone breaking in and trying to drive off. I have no idea how they do this so unsure what best to fit.

Looking to fit newer locks in driver and rear and blank the passenger. Central locking planned but haven't got my head around whether need separate alarm, key fob or can link in. Would be nice to link in with existing.

Trackers are relatively in-expensive and add another layer especially if you can link it real-time to your phone so you know it moves/leaves a specific area/security zone.

Some sort of pedal lock.

Wheel locking hubs and was just reading about special screws for door and frame hinges.

All I know is that every morning when I open the curtains I expect it to not be standing there (or at least wouldn't be totally shocked given the increase in thefts (although I do live in a very low crime area))
Post #609004 12th Mar 2017 9:32pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Lancerdoc999



Member Since: 10 Apr 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 205

United Kingdom 
agentmulder wrote:
Quote:
If I have something drawing power all the time even when unused then assume this would render that switched off until switch on


It will render your security system switched off if you put it far enough upstream Thumbs Up


yes, don't want to do this!

That answers at least part of my question.
Post #609006 12th Mar 2017 9:35pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
On a td5 you can make a very simpel system that the startermotor will run but the engine will not start. I hope that on that moment they run away instead of driving it. Whistle Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #609007 12th Mar 2017 9:37pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Lancerdoc999



Member Since: 10 Apr 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 205

United Kingdom 
X4SKP wrote:
Hello Lancerdoc999

Q1. Exactly what Defender do you have... Question

The question to ask is what is it you are trying to Isolate (prevent from happening)

If this is Security 'driven'

One approach is to isolate the main power supply from the Battery to the Starter Motor,
in order to maintain power to the Alarm, Central Locking, (if fitted) Ignition, ECU etc

I used a similar switch...
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/prod...tor-switch

You could then also Isolate (separately) the 12V power feed from the Starter Relay to the
Starter Motor, this is the 'trigger feed' to the Starter Motor's S terminal,

Your Starter Motor would then have two Isolation 'features' installed.


do you mean having two separate locking kill switches or a second dummy/hidden switch somewhere tucked away?
Post #609008 12th Mar 2017 9:38pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Lanceroc999

Main Isolation Switch
Use the Main Locking Isolation Switch to isolate the Main Power Feed to the Starter Motor, this carries the High Amps. If you do this and need to install extension Battery Terminal Cables to reach the location of your Isolation Switch, make sure they are match rated to handle the Amps being carried.


Isolation Switch


I ran the extension cables into a small protective housing with the Switch mounted
in such a way as the rear terminals passed through into the housing.

Second Isolation Switch
My suggestion is to install a second switch, a 'conventional' simple switch, between the Starter Relay and the S terminal on the Starter Motor. This is one wire that triggers the Starter Motor, 12V but low Amps. You could use a second lockable switch, but it doesn't need to be as high a rating. Locate this switch in a place known to you only, the same as the Main 'heavy duty' Switch.

Read up on the 'layered security' information on D2N, and you will have a good idea of what can be done.

Good Luck SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #609127 13th Mar 2017 12:00pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums