 | Home > Technical > Stainless/Ali Corrosion |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20504  
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Naka do a special thread paste to help prevent that which I have akways used.
Is that of any use? No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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18th Feb 2017 1:21pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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The paste I got with my Naka bolt kit wasn't anything special. Just a load of aluminium grease sachets as supplied with some brake pad kits.
From my research The correct grease to use with ally/stainless is nickel grease. I bought a tub of the stuff on eBay for not very much and it'll last decades with amateur use. But any grease that keeps the water out will stop them seizing together, it needs water to make the two metals react. |
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18th Feb 2017 3:42pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5038 
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I bit the bullet as it was warm and put the buzweld stuff on...if it works its good stuff...im sure time will tell Mike
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18th Feb 2017 6:53pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2108 
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I'm sure Buzzweld stuff will help. Fingers crossed
Clearly there are many products that offer some resistance to the well known galling, seizing and electrolytic issues, and there are many posts that provide experience-based recommendations. From what I've read, many only deal with either the galling or the electrolytic issues separately. If you want a single solution that addresses all the known issues with stainless steel fittings and fixings in the Land Rover context, then Tef Gel is a cracking product BUT relatively expensive.
That said, trial and error seems to be the way forward! Best of luck. |
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18th Feb 2017 8:07pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5038
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Thanks
The buzzweld stuff is supposed to specifically be good for this application Although i read some articles that stainless will in itself be better than mild steel...then something else saying a loctite coating will probably have some properties too...trial and error is the order of the day - shame it takes years to be sure of a problem Mike |
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18th Feb 2017 8:14pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2108
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Although this is a very general and sweeping statement on my part given the wider context, I don't believe that stainless steel will be better than mild steel in every situation. Given the right (wrong) environmental conditions, stainless steel is certainly going to be potentially (pardon the pun) more problematic when proximate to aluminium. It also suffers from galling (cold welding) when you use stainless with stainless (e.g. nut/bolt). Obviously it has better corrosion resistance in isolation when compared to mild steel, but you do have to be careful when using it with aluminium (and in a context when tensile strength is important).
I did qualify this with the point that this is a general statement, and it is of course only one (subjective) opinion, but the best advice is to approach the use of stainless steel on a Landy with caution. 
Personally I like using stainless steel and do so whenever I am able to do so appropriately. There are many, many grades of stainless steel to suit specific applications (e.g. high tensile, marine grade etc.) and as indicated previously there are also many, many pastes, compounds, greases and lubricants that will address the galling and electrolytic action. The most important point to make I suppose is that we have so many experienced forum members  , many of whom are marine engineers, and they can point us all in the right direction
Having said all of that  I do hope your Buzzweld works! |
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19th Feb 2017 8:44am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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I have seen the very early start of stainless into alu as well as stainless into mild steel problems. Quickly took corrective action as below. Strong believer in the qualities of Weicon, but that has no threadlock capacities of course.
Eric http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic38216....mild+steel You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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19th Feb 2017 8:56am |
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| need4speed Member Since: 23 Nov 2012 Location: Kilmarnock Posts: 746 |
I just use a bit of heatshrink where the thread passes through the Ali
Far more permanent barrier than any paste |
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21st Feb 2017 9:17pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5038
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thats a good idea...a bit like ptfe Mike
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22nd Feb 2017 12:06am |
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| Likeomg Member Since: 29 Jun 2012 Location: Lake District / Newcastle Posts: 2646 
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any links on this tef gel and where to purchase? |
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22nd Feb 2017 12:28am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Nylon washers probably help in some applications too. |
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22nd Feb 2017 5:14am |
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| Harry.O Member Since: 25 Jul 2014 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 716 
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I used to use copper-slip on all fixings, especially with steel/alloy interfaces however after a bit of reading it seems that ceramic grease is preferable because it removes another metal from the equation.
Duralac is good however it tends to dry hard and the yellow is difficult to wipe off once dry. Butyl pond liner cut to shape where panels are bolted to the chassis is another option  |
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22nd Feb 2017 12:35pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5038
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Seriously have a look at buzzweld stuff - its supposed to stop or hinder the corrosion
http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/anti-seize-threa...-97-p.html Mike |
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22nd Feb 2017 6:19pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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I dont get it? You asked us if it was worth using buzweld, now you're telling us to?
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22nd Feb 2017 8:30pm |
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