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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20688 ![]() ![]() |
That's 830w inc headlights. (Assuming they are factory Halogen.) 68A current draw total @ 12.2v but not including other loads as standard.
I'd guesstimate with all lights on and everything upto and around 90A load. Puma Alternator I think is 150A, definitly no lower than 120A. (Can someone clarify?) Just don't run and heavy draw Amps for in car audio or similar at the same time. ![]() ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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Tumbiri Member Since: 01 Nov 2016 Location: Caribbean Posts: 52 ![]() ![]() |
Thanks! My 110 came fitted with the Alpine upgraded audio system with sub-woofer and I haven't done any changes to it. Does the factory system usually pull a lot of power?
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20688 ![]() ![]() |
I wouldn't have thought so except for the ECU, IPAC and various other 'monitoring' electronics for engine performance etc.
Generally pretty low draw really, it's the lighting that often draws most or rear window heaters etc. Things like that. I wouldn't be worried myself but if you'd have been drawing 100A plus it'd be something to really take into account. I have an amp that draws nearly 50A plus, HU draw at nearly 15A and various other things too and not had any problems. Are you running Halogen or HiD? TheThunderRolls🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4799 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You should be fine with the factory system. Including the sub the total audio wattage in the upgrade audio kit is only about 250W
There is always the option of led headlights. A pair of those would be a 50W reduction in power usage approximately ![]() 1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4799 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Also side lights and numberplate illumination add up to 30W again this can be reduced by switching to led.
Small reductions but it all adds up ![]() 1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20688 ![]() ![]() |
^^^^ Indeed, that's what I was thinking as I don't know what the OP's LR had fitted.
Hey, I guess you may save 1p's worth of diesel economy a month through going LED. ![]() ![]() With tail lights as standard 5w each 21w brake. Sidelights 21w each. Headlights 55w each Number plate what ever that is etc all mounts up. Interior dash lights.. TheThunderRolls🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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Tumbiri Member Since: 01 Nov 2016 Location: Caribbean Posts: 52 ![]() ![]() |
I'm running halogens. Checked the fuses for the Entertainment system and they total 40A.
Was thinking that I could power up the loads progressively while checking the battery charge. If I get a steady 14v (or thereabouts) then should be fine. Is this a good check? |
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leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582 ![]() ![]() |
What is meant by long range lights and what light output is required?
What sort of driving do you expect to do? Stopping distance at 60mph is 73m. Allow 100% safety margin good illumination over 150 metres is good What range of light is actually required? Or is spread of light close to vehicle more important? Brendan |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20688 ![]() ![]() |
Should be around 12.2v at rest and 14.2v alternator charging current. Give or take +/- 0.4v is acceptable I'd say. All good. ![]() ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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Tumbiri Member Since: 01 Nov 2016 Location: Caribbean Posts: 52 ![]() ![]() |
Thanks fellas.
In response to the lighting requirements: I occasionally need to drive on very dark, mountainous, not-very-good condition, rain forest roads. Hazards are landslides, falling trees etc. The more I can see well ahead the better. A good spread is also needed so that I can see the sides clearly so I mix the two types. The lights are the KC Slimlites 130W Long Range (120-121) and 100W Driving (123-124). Check out their site. http://www.kchilites.com/light-type/halogen/slim-lite.html |
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ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Tumbiri, why go for those KC halogens? Your case surely seems to need as much light output as you can get for the used wattage. I would suggest to go for some high performance LED lights which give you much more lumen, candela, lux, or whatever else you want to call it per consumed watt. You may get a big multiple light output for less wattage by using high quality LED lights. Below is one very rugged Aussie brand which I suggest you take a look at. A combination of spot beam and flood beam lamps seems what you need from them after reading your original post.
Eric https://www.arb.com.au/products/vehicle-li...ed-lights/ P.S. Steve, yes, all Puma Defenders since 2007 have a 150A alternator. ![]() http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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