 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Soundproofing and Motorway Driving - Is it worth doing? |
 
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| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674   
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I have done a small amount of sound proofing (fatmat) and also fitted a rad-haz kit to the Wolf, this has made a difference in the fact I don't have to shout as loud to my passengers at motorway speeds, if you did a full sound proofing job it would make a vast difference. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
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28th Dec 2016 12:36pm |
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| K.M Member Since: 28 Apr 2016 Location: Salisbury Posts: 300  
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Thanks, Mash!
I would expect a difference to be had from covering the currently exposed rear wheel arches as at the moment there is nothing to dampen the NVH etc... and then given that I won't really want to see the soundproofing I'd probably look at applying some form of carpet or rubberised cover. I wouldn't have an issue removing the door cards and applying some to the doors as I'm having the doorcards leather trimmed anyway so whilst they're off it makes sense but again... is it really worth it? Overall, I'm just curious as to the difference it would make at motorway speeds to decide whether the expensive, time, effort and additional weight is worth it... or should I just invest in better speakers  |
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28th Dec 2016 12:59pm |
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| Paulv8 Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 618 
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I am just in the process of soundproofing my 2.2 utility. The back is done (sticky 8mm closed cell foam and an eBay carpet kit. It's a big improvement, especially in the rain.
Just working in the front now. I will keep you posted V8 90...WIP |
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28th Dec 2016 2:00pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7905 
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I've had skinz throughout our 110SW. Like you say below 40mph is way better, as you go faster the effect is less noticeable as wind noise takes over. However at motorway speeds it is still much better, particularly in the wet as the splash and stone splatter is much reduced.
You might argue having spent a fortune I would say it is much better, but I think it's true. James MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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28th Dec 2016 2:26pm |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189 
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simple answer is YES.
I do a lot of motorway miles. covered all floors, rear sides, inside of seat boxes and bell housing with closed foam and silent coat 2mm on flat panels. Also added under bonnet foam mat, search for my thread on this. It has made a huge difference. |
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28th Dec 2016 2:54pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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Hello
I have a 110 SW and I've been doing this myself... Not done any on the roof. Biggest difference I thought were the front seat box's Then the rear Boot floor For best 'sound' the doors covered in the stuff slam a lot better than a tin can. I still have the passenger side to do and more if I can up by the bulkhead, I'm waiting for warmer weather 
I used 2mm Silent coat and then 8mm soft closed foam. example of what I have done below.... It makes a bigger difference as other have said under 40 mph. I tend to only cruise at 60 mph so still thinks it helps. However as others above that its probably less so as more other noises become obvious...  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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28th Dec 2016 4:23pm |
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| K.M Member Since: 28 Apr 2016 Location: Salisbury Posts: 300
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Thank you all for your replies! By the sound of it (no pun intended) it sounds like its certainly a worthwhile exercise!
The next question is no doubt both subjective and disputed BUT... which product is better? I know that bm52 has used NK (which comes to around £300) and then there is Dynamat and even Stinger Roadkill from Mudstuff.... what are peoples thoughts? At the moment, Mudstuff have discounted the Roadkill to £96 for 3.4m2 but obviously if I'm doing it, I want to make sure I'm doing it with the best possible materials! As always, your views / feedback is greatly appreciated  |
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29th Dec 2016 7:57am |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7905
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The feedback I got from several people was Skinz was every bit as good as Dynamat but at slightly less cost. I know MCMA1 had issues with the Skinz falling off his roof, but mine appears to be staying put with no problems so far. James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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29th Dec 2016 8:10am |
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| Paulv8 Member Since: 09 Jun 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 618
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Closed cell sticky back foam with foil face 8mm 5m2 for 50 notes on eBay. V8 90...WIP
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29th Dec 2016 9:41am |
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| K.M Member Since: 28 Apr 2016 Location: Salisbury Posts: 300
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Perhaps its my ignorance to soundproofing, but I hadn't even considered applying anything on top of the foam sheeting other than perhaps a carpet (at a later date) or relaying the rubber flooring which is already factory fitted. How necessary is the closed cell foam in this case? Would a substantial difference be noticed?
So a quick Amazon / Google search has thrown up the following: Dynamat Extreme - £137.95 with free delivery and can have it tomorrow (18 inch x 32 inch) Stinger Roadkill - £104.50 including postage and will have it around 06 Jan when they re-open. (18 inch x 32 inch) Skinz - £100 and will have it around 09th Jan (15 inch x 10 inch) Which would be better as a single layer option or am I still missing something / a brand? I'm hoping - as suggested - to do the seat boxes, rear SW floor, sides and rear wheel arches (internal) as well as the doors and maybe even the roof! |
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29th Dec 2016 11:23am |
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| Stiff1 Member Since: 09 Dec 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 596 
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I found silent coat to be as good as any product.
What you must be aware of is that this layer will only really reduce the resonance of the panels. You must then add a decoupling and sound absorbing layer as mentioned re the CSF, this is what will really reduce the air borne noise. You are also correct that at 60+ mph the wind noise is what you will really notice but all the little bits will help. |
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29th Dec 2016 12:36pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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I used silent coat, easy to work with and seems to go a long way,
Cannot remember now but the bulk packs were around £75 The foam I bought a big roll off the bay and cut as needed, With the silent coat, then the closed cell foam, then the carpet it all has to help
These are the packs I bought (2 so far) but I got it a tad cheaper.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silent-Coat-Sound...ilent+coat This type of foam.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5m-x1m-Polyethyl...Swwo1Xdjdf |
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29th Dec 2016 9:45pm |
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| Froglaise Member Since: 24 Sep 2016 Location: left forum Posts: 212 |
I have to do 800 miles a month on the motorway and at speed it's wind noise though the windows and doors which is loudest and most annoying. The type of work described here doesn't do anything for that so I've just finished installing fixed rear windows, nicely sealed in properly and also a double door seal. Has cut a lot of the wind noise and cold air blasts out especially at 70-80mph. Much improved and closer to car like. For other noise it's definitely worth treating the Defender though covering all panels with dynamat etc isn't really worth the money - you only need to cover about 50% of the flat panels, perhaps less. These treatments don't block or absorb sound, they stop the panel from creating sound..... You then need to decouple with CFS and then block/absorb/diffuse with something of mass on top of that. Heavy and dense final layer is the way if you are really serious. |
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30th Dec 2016 3:53pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20348
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I've covered most of mine in Dynamat as the more you have helps, but is costly.
Minimal application on a panel will still give you around 80% of the same effect though I'd have though at 1/2 the cost. Be careful that some cheap soundproofing materials have been found to contain Lead, which of course is harmful. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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30th Dec 2016 3:57pm |
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