 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Split intercooler Hose |
 
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7908   
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I think this is quite common. I had all mine swapped to Silicone by BAS whilst fitting new intercooler and the original were all pretty close to failing. The 90deg was a pig, beyond what I would attempt, but i am a mechanical numpty. James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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31st May 2017 1:10pm |
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| jomara Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1790  
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Had the same happen last Thursday!!
How did you manage to remove the air filter box? One of my guys spent 2 hours trying to get it out, he ended up with it jammed between the AC pipe and wing, luckily I caught him before he ripped something to bits or caused damage to my paintwork. (I notice later that he had popped both clips off the filter box and closed the lid down with cable ties  )
The joys of giving one of your fitters a simple job  2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon
1971 Bowler Tomcat 88 4.2 V8 Auto 2022 110 D250 XS Edition - Gone 2024 110 D250 X-Dynamic HSE |
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31st May 2017 4:08pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 671 
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Mine is without AC so once I had levered the airbox out of the rubber mounts it came out very easily.
Hope you can get the clips refitted? |
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1st Jun 2017 10:21am |
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| CaptainDan Member Since: 14 Apr 2017 Location: Victoria Posts: 53  
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Hi Scott
I like you had the exact same problems and fitted the Alisport hoses in two stages, the two long ones were not a problem but the 90 degree elbow was a different story. I found the text below on another web site here in Australia and knowing this really helped. I can recommend removing the water pump it does make it much easier and is not as hard as some would have you believe. One word of caution and I am a great fan of Alisport having fitted both their replacement intercooler and radiator their products are great. But and there is always a but, neither I nor the local LR dealer could get the Alisport 90 elbow to fit it is just tool stiff and no matter what I did or they it just kept slipping off the throttle body. Anyway I settled for a lighter weight silcone hose which is referred in the text below, Supercheap is a automotive parts retail outlet in Australia. Armed with this new elbow it literally took 20 minutes to fit. You maybe able to see in the photo how the hose just would not fit on the throttle body, I am sure others have used the Alisport elbow I just could get it to fit. Bottom line it is a pain in arse job but I recommend following the instructions below and you will not have any problems in fitting the 90 elbow. Regards Daniel Thanks to the guys in Oz for the original posts Hi all, I have seen many threads where it recommends that the inter-cooler hoses should be replaces with silicone hoses, however many of the kits do not include the 90 degree hose that goes from the steel connecting pipe to the throttle body. The other day I had a whooshing noise occur on the way home and knew it was one of the inter-cooler hoses, the Defender went in to limp-home mode, luckily I have a Scan Gauge fitted so I could clear the error code while I drove the 80 km commute home. ( was not going to leave the Defender or the wife on the side of the road) The throttle body inlet hose had split, luckily Super Cheap actually keep them in stock, 50x63x127 mm 90 degree reducer hose. Silicone direct also sell them if are happy to wait. 90 Degree Silicone Reducing Elbows Fitting the hose is an absolute pain....and I am a mechanic by trade....after some time complimenting engines on how wonderful their designs are in the way they can put so many rubber hoses on the back of the water pumps and make no room what so ever. The easy way is to unbolt the water pump and tie it up out of the way, loosen the hose clamp off the throttle body, then you have access to remove the steel inter-cooler pipe, cut the new silicone hose to length, loosely fit the smaller end to the pipe and refit into position using the inter-cooler hose to the steel pipe as a guide. Adjust the new hose to the correct angle so it can easily be fitted to the throttle body without kinking the hose, remove the pipe and new hose, then fit the smaller end hose clamp. Fit the pipe with the new hose to the throttle body and tighten the hose clamps. Refit the water pump and you are done. Can this job be done on the side of the road if you or a mate had a spare hose on a trip....yes if you move the water pump out of the way, and remove the lower cooling fan cowling, to make it easier to get to the water pump bolts, you will also need a 3/8 drive square drive or ratchet for the serpentine belt tension adjuster in your tool kit, apart from that no other special tools would be required, flat blade screw driver and a 10 mm ring spanner. Hi Ozrob, Long time lurker, first time poster here thought would add to your original post as i recently(last week) upgraded to a 170AB tune + BAS intercooler and BAS hose Kit and very happy with the results. I particularly wanted to share my experience changing the 90 degree Elbow (lot of sweat, blood and skin lost in the process) which will benefit fellow 2.2 Puma owners. I tried various ways but the one that worked for me did not require me to remove the water pump. Here is what should work and can be done quiet quickly (mind you this took me a day to work out ) 1. Remove the metal pipe connecting the return intercooler hose to the elbow connected to the throttle body by removing 2 10ml bolts. (loosen and slide back the hose clamps from the elbow and one from the return hose connecting the metal pipe) 2. Remove old Elbow (Once the pipe is removed you will have easy access to remove the elbow) 3. lightly grease the lip of the throttle body to help install the new hose along with clamp. please make sure the clamp is tight enough to secure hose in place, but not torque it up yet as you will need to align with the metal pipe. (In my case I also used my right hand through coolant pipework to position and push up the elbow into place. 4. lightly grease the lip of the metal pipe to be connected to the elbow. 5. Reinstall the metal pipe (might have to align with right hand and jiggle/push fit into elbow) 6. Secure pipe to water pump with bolts removed earlier. Job Done! Note: A long Flexible Socket 1/4" Extension will make the job a whole lot easier in my opinion so i ventured into the garage last night armed with my lube and a can-do-attitude, to undertake this the final of the 3 IC hoses I've replaced. I used the BAS ones with the up-rated IC. I opted for the "remove the steel pipe and pre-fit the elbow" method which took me about an hour. for any one interested, here is what i found was req'd: 1/4" flexible drive & 7mm socket - for hose clamps OEM style self retaining hose clamps - hard to get the loose ones into position. 10mm spanner - for the steel pipework personal lube (and suitable excuse as to why you're disappearing into the garage with it!) long screwdriver - used from underneath, handle end against the hose to help push it on Gloves - to help reduce blood loss Arms the size of twigs A mild self-harm disorder A burning desire to finish what you started this is best summarised a job for someone else... interestingly, i'm glad i did it, as the hose clamps were pretty loose and i wouldn't like to be trying to push it back on by the side of the road/scrub. The bolts for the steel pipe by contrast were tight enough to hold the whole car together. |
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3rd Jun 2017 11:45am |
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