 | Home > Td5 > Part numbers for swivel overhaul. |
 
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| Romadog Member Since: 07 Jul 2011 Location: Powys Posts: 1749  |
Yes you can buy a parts manual - I have one and find it very useful
Need to google the part number. See link below to parts on line - think its what you want? http://lrcat.com/#31/4/52605 |
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7th Nov 2016 9:26pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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I did this recently with my puma, including the two nut replacement.
No part numbers but a good start at understanding all the parts:  Click image to enlarge Parts can be found via https://www.landroverworkshop.com/parts and similar - for instance: https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams...0455_52606 https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams...afts_52600 Check your cars VIN for the correct parts range. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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8th Nov 2016 4:51am |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 933  
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Here you go! http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=755142&SPRACHE=EN 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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8th Nov 2016 12:38pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 916  
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Ok Per side you will need VVV
Top swivel pin assembly: - NON ABS TAR100040 (Kit inc bearing and seal) Bottom swivel bearing: - 606666 Gasket Stub axle: - FTC3648 Gasket Inner swivel housing to axle: - FTC3646 Swivel housing seal: - FTC3401 Inner swivel housing shaft seal: FTC3276 hub gasket: - 571752 Inner hub seal: - FTC4785 Swivel housing grease (one shot): - STC3435 You will need to remove the inner bearing spacer and replace the single nut with: Locknut X 2: - FRC8700 Lock tab washer: - FTC3179 CV joint: - TDJ000010 There are kits which will cover it but you won't get the control over the quality of the bearings / seals it's up to you and your personal feelings. Hopefully saves you a little time ferreting through the books. |
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8th Nov 2016 2:03pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Off the top of my head, a few more gaskets required than ^^
Also to get at seal '23' you needed to ruin the roller bearing '16' - well, me and my knuckle headed approach did 
After doing all of mine I realised I should have really done the bottom pin ('20') as well. Part '15' will need checking too, if there are no more holes left to assist in distributing lubrication then it should be replaced too (you'll see what I mean if they're there), it's a plain thrust bearing that wears as it goes along. The slop is accounted for in the shims '12', which you should get a few options so that you can pack it out snugly. The shims for the swivel pin pre-load come with the kit for '20', but keep the old ones as I needed a couple more than I was given to make it work. May as well do brake rotors and bearings while you're there too huh? Hopefully your stub axle faces are nice... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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9th Nov 2016 2:01am |
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| Welkman Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Essex colchester Posts: 326
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Thanks for all the help. I have stripped the drivers side down and the swivel pin bearings had both collapsed, the cv joint is dry and knackered as well. As I have owned it for two years and not noticed any leaks I guess it has been dry for a long while. Luckilly the wheel bearing and stub axle are fine. Discs and pads are getting changed along with the pipe feeding the caliper. I might strip, clean and rebuild the calipers as well. Funny how a small job always seems to get huge !
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9th Nov 2016 7:53pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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^^ yip, I did the caliper piston overhaul too
You're pretty much forced to with the new rotor (and pads) as the dirty piston may damage the seals when you plunge it in to fit the wider parts. Have fun doing the full bleed, lots of fluid, once it was all clean and only bubbles remained I made a recirculating circuit to save $$. Managed to not mangle the flex>caliper pipe which was nice, I can see how easy it would be to kink it in the process. Wow, they had collapsed ? That must have been an interesting driving experience, wobbles/slop? Have a good read of the WSM regarding the required pre-load on the new set up, I didn't use a spring scale, but borrowed my mothers kitchen scales and pushed instead of pulled   - got me in the right ballpark.
I managed to shear off a well corroded swivel seal bolt, had to get creative getting the remaining thread out of the hub. Also one flange was 'rust-welded' to the CV - got creative with the angle grinder to sort that
Keep us updated  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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9th Nov 2016 8:11pm |
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| Welkman Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Essex colchester Posts: 326
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I thought the shaking was a wheel weight fallen off but I knew the CV joint was bad ! Also found both steering rods were bent. Sumo bars going back in.
All parts ordered tonight from several places so thanks to all that helped with that. I just cant see the bearing races for the swivel bearings listed...... they may come with the kit for the upper pin but not the lower one? Cheers |
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9th Nov 2016 10:22pm |
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| Welkman Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Essex colchester Posts: 326
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Well this is turning into a bit of an expensive job. Both track rods were bent, the discs were knackered and the pds have seen better days. Swivel balls are also well past saving. Check out the condition of the bearing races for the swivel pins !
New OEM balls ordered and a whole load of non britpart seals. Housings have all been cleaned up ready for a coat of chassis black and everything else cleaned and ready for reassembly. Next job will be the brake calipers. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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13th Nov 2016 7:13pm |
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