DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Changing Ignition Switch

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Changing Ignition Switch

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

Changing Ignition Switch

My ignition switch is playing up - it doesn't always spring return from the starter position, so the electrics die before the engine is running. I suppose that after 158k miles, it's just worn out.

Anyway, I have a new switch to fit and I've bought replacement shear bolts but, before I start taking things apart, am I missing anything other than brute force to remove the existing shear bolts?

Thanks for looking. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

26th Oct 2016 12:13pm

XS Pete

Member Since: 13 Jan 2011
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 632

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

I didn't even attempt the brute force method when I changed mine, as I decided there just wasn't enough room and the risk of collateral damage would be great.

I ended up using my Bosch PMF180 multitool with a modified metal cutting blade on, and cut down through the shear bolts between where the two parts of the alloy casting come togther.

It was pretty fiddly, but it was the only way I could see of doing it without using some sort of physical violence.

Pete

26th Oct 2016 12:49pm

gilarion

Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5115

2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green

I used a small pointed punch and hammer on the shear bolts heads, fiddly at first but once you get the bolts turning it becomes easier and eventually they just spin out. Using a grinder or brute force risks damaging the steering shaft. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1

26th Oct 2016 1:34pm

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

Thanks guys. Some useful ideas to try

Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

26th Oct 2016 2:27pm

CDN38

Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

gilarion wrote:
I used a small pointed punch and hammer on the shear bolts heads, fiddly at first but once you get the bolts turning it becomes easier and eventually they just spin out. Using a grinder or brute force risks damaging the steering shaft.

Exactly how I did mine. Just kept hitting the punch off centre of the bolt and was persistent. After a little while, the bolt began to spin out. Seemed to work fine, slow and steady wins the race. it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html

26th Oct 2016 5:11pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17600

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

That is the "industry standard" method.

26th Oct 2016 5:17pm

ken

Member Since: 18 Aug 2009
Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !!
Posts: 4328

Drill and extractor ?

26th Oct 2016 8:04pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17600

Very, very difficult to centre the drill.

26th Oct 2016 9:38pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum