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jfh

Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 358

2007 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Chawton White

Alternator light doesn't go out

I have a 300Tdi but it was built on the Td5 production line.
It's a 2006 special edition in South Africa only. (Kalahari)
Interior, wiring, everything like the Td5 but with a non EGR 300Tdi engine.

Here's my question: my alternator light doesn't go out, it only goes dimmer when the alternator kicks in.
I talked to a guy with the same model and fault and he said 3 different auto electricians couldn't sort it out.
Both of us have dual battery systems.
Is this a problem on the Td5 and how do I fix it?
All that I could figure out is that it might be a fault on the warning light pc board.

29th Sep 2016 7:14pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Did you measure the voltage at the B+ tab on the alternator? If the alternator light goes dimmer probably the regulator is at fault or one of the diodes is faulty and the alternator output is lower than it shoud be (approx. 14.4 V). Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite

29th Sep 2016 7:21pm

jfh

Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 358

Click image to enlarge
Yes I tested it. The output is normal.
I even have 14.1V in the dashboard.
That's why I am thinking of the warning light pc board.

29th Sep 2016 7:34pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

As far as I know there is no fancy electronics involved, so either the full voltage from the alternator does not arrive at the warning lamp, or there is a resistance or bad connection from the ignition live so that the full voltage from battery does not arive at there at the warning lamp.
The warning lamp is out if the battery voltage (ignition live) is canceled (equal to) the alternator delivering voltage. If one of them is lower voltage or absence (bad connections), the lamp stays on.
As you say the lamp is dim, it seems to me there is be a bad connection (resistance) involved somewhere. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite

29th Sep 2016 8:15pm

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

charging and starting wiring from 300 tdi and td5

30th Sep 2016 6:12am

jfh

Member Since: 08 Jan 2014
Location: West Coast
Posts: 358

Yes I have looked at that diagram.
But it's for a EGR 300Tdi.
Mine is non EGR with a Td5 wiring and dash.
No ECU. The only electronic thing is the immobiliser.
The other guy said that I must just live with it.
It looks like it is a model specific issue.
I still think it's the pc board as I have tested everything else.
Does anyone know the part number for this part and a price?

30th Sep 2016 6:25am

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

EGR make not odds to Alternator wiring the only thing missing from your TD5 instilment panel is resister and diode and that TD5 alternator has one more wire too the Alternator

start at the beginning check wiring and connector first

30th Sep 2016 6:48am

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