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LANDROVER

Member Since: 13 Feb 2016
Location: EAST OF ENGLAND
Posts: 214

Galvanised Chassis Treatment & general winter protection

My chassis was galvanised and looks good, but I would like to treat it with corrosion preventor.

It has slight reacting on the outside now and being a sacrificial layer I understand that is whats happens....Also the manufactures say the chassis's should last 30 years etc....but I would prefer not to have to do a chassis change when I'm 60!

So should I spray the chassis? It's nice that you can blast all the mud of easily at the moment but I feel like spraying it all with clear waxoyl or something similar?

Also I may treat the axles, I was going to paint them but it goes off road so think the paint might get rubbed off. I was thinking black waxoyl over the axle?

I did see the post on Corrosion but the ACF-50 looks expensive to treat the whole underside with.

I wanted to go clear so I can see the chassis and not hide the condition.

Is it worth treating...I was told not to by several.

It is used off road mostly...the only thing I noticed is I treated my Series 2 and the mud does stick to the waxoyl....where as can be washed off the galvanised 90 chassis easily.

What are your thoughts.

20th Sep 2016 11:13am

MartinK

Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

Lots of people on here prefer Dinitrol products to Waxoyl...

However Bilt Hamber products are now getting great reviews too.

Something like this? http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protec...s/dynax-uc

Clear protector (if you want to keep the colour of your chassis) Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)

20th Sep 2016 1:56pm

Mash

Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Guernsey
Posts: 1674

I'm part way through my chassis swap, I have t-wash, acid etch primered and top coated with marine grade 2k paint, the chassis will then be filled with dinitrol and a final clear coating will be applied to the external chassis. This I hope with regular top ups will mean my chassis will last and I shall never have to do a chassis swap again. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html
110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html
52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html
D3 Hse - Fiona
Capri 2l S - Anna

Think I might have a problem............

20th Sep 2016 3:21pm

Zagato
Site Supporter

Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

I did my galv series II chassis as above, etched primed, painted and cavity wax. I did this during the build however so it was a lot easier to do with nothing bolted on. I hand painted my TDCi chassis, took ages and would not bother again, would just Dinitrol it.

Bilt Hamber very similar to Dinitrol but pricier, (good stuff though as Martin says) careful of some of the clear products, they seem to stay either tacky (despite claims) or the hard one,s chip (but that can be touched up of course). Covering your chassis with something will make it look more original, make it live a lot longer and won,t be so obvious and tempting to theives.

20th Sep 2016 3:46pm

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