↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > How to break the taper on the drag rod?
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324
Kuwait 
How to break the taper on the drag rod?
Ok,

So I need to remove my 'sector shaft arm drag link' - watching this video from about 2:45 you can see a tool to remove crack the taper on the ball joint thingo:



Here it is again:


Click image to enlarge

I dont have one, not afraid to fork out, but in the meantime:

What is his 'two hammers' technique?

A single hammer is only bashing the threaded rod and transmitting/dissipating force in the swivel housing arm etc... Yip, I've put penetrating oil in there.

I've looked at my bottle jack wondering if I can use that - but the solution involves a bunch of faffing and is pretty much the tool in question, or me lifting the vehicle by the bolt (i.e. lifting via the swivel housing arm or the steering output thingo >> no good!) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #535316 28th May 2016 4:29am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4230
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I have one of those splitting tools in the photo. They do work, but I find it usually damage the rubber dust boot in the process.
Post #535328 28th May 2016 7:10am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Alien



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Bacchus Marsh
Posts: 230
Australia 
2 hammer technique...
Don't hit the thread, ball joint or tie rod.
Leave the nut on the thread but loose, I allow a 1/4" gap.
Place 1 hamer against the housing next to the taper.
Hit it firmly( or harder) with hammer 2 on the opposite side.
I've found 90% of the time 1 big hammer does the job.
This should pop the taper and the nut is there so it does fall out on you.

Cheers Kyle. Cheers,
Kyle.
Post #535330 28th May 2016 7:16am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Alien



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Bacchus Marsh
Posts: 230
Australia 
Wink Cheers,
Kyle.
Post #535331 28th May 2016 7:20am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Nevillerover



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 224
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
My dad showed me the two hammer way 50 years ago. It's the best, doesn't damage the rubbers.
Post #535332 28th May 2016 7:21am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
discomog



Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: Notts/Lincs Border
Posts: 2533
United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Two hammer method has always worked for me, indeed this was the method I was taught by Land Rover during my apprenticeship over half a century ago. Unlike some of the removal tools it doesn't damage the rubber boot (unless of course you are a rubbish shot with a hammer). As Kyle says make sure you leave the nut on just in case you are a bad shot and damage the thread. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S
Morgan Plus 8
Post #535335 28th May 2016 7:29am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324
Kuwait 
I've worked with takers before on mills, and tapping it on the side occurred to me already.

Maybe I need to give it a bit more juice, as no dice when I tried with a 3lb hammer, cup of tea and a bickie.

The video has one hammer - hrrrrrm, i don't quite follow where the second hammer fits in. Reading Aliens advice I'm not sure what 'it' refers to ('hit it firmly'), if it's the opposite side of the hammer you're hitting then why? If it's the opposite side of the housing then what is the hammer on the opposite side doing?

I bet as soon as I see it I'll be like ohhhh, OK - of course...

Thanks for the input, I'm sure I'll get there. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #535352 28th May 2016 8:56am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324
Kuwait 
Ahhhh, lots of Google hits now I'm using better search terms...

Thumbs Up Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #535354 28th May 2016 9:06am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
sharkey964



Member Since: 05 Oct 2014
Location: On a muddy track
Posts: 577
France 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
One hammer is fine,just give it a good hard smack. Thumbs Up
Marc
Post #535362 28th May 2016 11:18am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Pilgrimmick



Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 582
United Kingdom 
agentmulder wrote:
I've worked with takers before on mills, and tapping it on the side occurred to me already.

Maybe I need to give it a bit more juice, as no dice when I tried with a 3lb hammer, cup of tea and a bickie.

The video has one hammer - hrrrrrm, i don't quite follow where the second hammer fits in. Reading Aliens advice I'm not sure what 'it' refers to ('hit it firmly'), if it's the opposite side of the hammer you're hitting then why? If it's the opposite side of the housing then what is the hammer on the opposite side doing?

I bet as soon as I see it I'll be like ohhhh, OK - of course...

Thanks for the input, I'm sure I'll get there.


The other hammer hits the opposite side at the same time, sending a double shock wave through the steel. Takes a bit of coordination to get it right, but very effective. 80" 1948
Lightweight V8
Bowler Tomcat
130 Station wagon
90 300tdi
(Santana PS10 pick up)
Range Rover L322 (Ful fat)
Post #535382 28th May 2016 1:02pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888
England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
If you look carefully at the steering arm you'll see a flat "lump" on the side of it next to the taper - that's there for you to hit it with a hammer. No need to use two hammers, a good solid "tap" with a hammer on that flat will break the taper's seat. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #535398 28th May 2016 2:25pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Alien



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Bacchus Marsh
Posts: 230
Australia 
I've never found the need to swing the 2nd hammer.
It's only used to get some mass behind the joint when needed.
Found this which shows it @5:55 and @7:45(a little more suborn)...
]

Cheers, Kyle. Cheers,
Kyle.
Post #535552 29th May 2016 6:04am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324
Kuwait 
Perfect, the man himself too.

OK, acts as an anvil - must be some pretty hi-frequency jerk/snap in action.


Thanks for linking that. Thumbs Up Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #535560 29th May 2016 6:47am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
pannawonica



Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Clackline Western Australia
Posts: 568
Australia 
FBH just the ticket! Thumbs Up
Post #536780 2nd Jun 2016 7:56am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT

Jump to  
<  Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums