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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
I think I may have damaged the clutch...
Ok so my Defender is just over 50k on the clock - original clutch. Some might say I'm lucky because I know they are like cheese, but it's mainly road use, little towing and I'm really careful with it.

Last night I was unfortunate enough to meet another 4x4 driver on a hill who seemed to think it would be easier for me to dive into the 3ft white stuff whilst he carried on happily down the middle of the road in the ruts created earlier. As it was a bit of a 'I'd better move out of his way because he clearly isn't stopping' scenario I did move into the deep stuff in plenty of time.

To keep up momentum and because I was loosing revs I dropped into 2nd gear and hit the accelerator whilst moving back into the nice ruts after he'd passed. In doing so I must have slipped the clutch - whether my boot didn't fully clear the pedal or something, or maybe the clutch just decided 50k was enough I don't know but what ensued was the horrible smell of burning friction material that makes you feel sick Laughing

Didn't see any smoke or otherwise, but it took another 10 minutes of driving to clear the smell from the heater ducts. After that the Landy seemed to drive ok for the rest of my journey (only a few miles).

Forgot all about it, jumped in today and immediately noticed that the biting point was rather high and the clutch 'seemed' lighter than usual (although my calf muscle may have grown overnight Laughing) carried on with no smells in the cabin etc. but after 20 miles I got out and could smell the nasty smell again - not that strongly, but a little sniff by the side step and it was obvious.

I continued to do over 200 miles today without any real issue, taking it very easy (not easy in 6ft snow drifts) but the clutch is definately lighter than usual, has a high biting point - it feels quite nice in a strange way - and the smell is lingering. To test I floored it up a motorway slip road in 3rd from low revs to high revs and experienced no slippage/vibration etc.

So, my questions to you folk who know a lot more about clutches than me:


    Is the smell lingering just because I've damaged the friction material, or is it likely to still be slipping but not noticeable?
    Is the clutch likely to 'bed in' at all after some use (appreciate the biting point will not return)?
    Is there any way to check the clutch without splitting the box (i.e. I'm guessing shoving a camera in the bell housing drain plug won't reveal much)?
    Considering I've had 50k out of it (not all my miles I'd like to add) am I safest just having the clutch replaced?


If it is the latter I'd better get reading up now as I know I will need to do more than just the clutch (output shaft etc.) if the boxes are split! Big Cry ££££££££££

Thanks, Oz. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #690688 3rd Mar 2018 9:34pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1802

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
If you've got 50k from the clutch, you've probably done better than most, although from reading on here mostly they die through knackered springs (I've had to replace 3) not worn out linings, and one hard session shouldn't burn it out.

Would anyone on here know if there is any way if the sudden chill effect of parking in deep snow affected temporarily or otherwise the clutch slave or pipework?

Have you tried bleeding the clutch?

Good luck.
Post #690709 3rd Mar 2018 10:07pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Hi ickle.

I did wonder at the time if the clutch had been affected in any way by the cold/damp. It was parked up all of Thursday/Friday day, so by the evening it had a drift up the one side and under the Landy.

I too wouldn't have expected one 'slip' to have made such a difference to the vehicle, in particular the continued smell, but I've had rattling springs after a long hot run for a few years so maybe the extra stress caused an issue.

I haven't tried to do anything as of yet, too bloomin cold Laughing but a good suggestion to try bleeding the system through all the same. Thank you Thumbs Up Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #690720 3rd Mar 2018 10:40pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
So I've been doing some reading and found this in the workshop manual:

"Contained within the slave cylinder outlet assembly is a peak torque limiter. This component is designed to restrict the hydraulic fluid flow during the clutch pedal up-stroke. Under normal pedal actuation this restriction can not be detected, but in the event of an unintentional pedal release (e.g. wet shoe slipping off the clutch pedal) the peak torque limiter limits the fluid return rate and protects the transmission and driveline form excessive shock loads, which might cause damage."

I wonder if it's possible that the peak torque limiter was the cause of the slip and when I came quickly off the clutch and onto the accelerator this 'function' meant the plates were not fully engaged.

Does anyone have any experience of this function and can comment on whether the cold is likely to have affected it or if it's something that can actually go wrong?

Thanks, Oz! Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #691028 4th Mar 2018 11:22pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17526

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The peak torque limiter is a simple one-way flow restrictor which limits the rate at which fluid can leave the slave cylinder. Its purpose is to prevent transmission damage in the event that your foot slips off the pedal which might otherwise happen due to the combination of the anti-stall programming and unprecedented torque of the TDCi engine. It is not a particulary troublesome component but it is cheap, and it is normal to change it whenever the cltch is replaced.

It is possible that it prevented clutch engagement but only in conjunction with another problem such as dirt or water/ice in the fluid.

On the face of it nothing you say you did, and nothing in the prevailing conditions, should have caused any clutch damage, although it is possible that at 50k miles the slightly brutal treatment had caused a spring to drop out of the driven plate and jam the cover, or something like that. If there is still a persistent fault, you probably have no real option other than to drop the box out and take a look.
Post #691065 5th Mar 2018 7:07am
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NinetyTD4



Member Since: 22 Apr 2011
Location: North
Posts: 397

Wales 2012 Defender 90 Other SW Keswick Green
Smelling is just that, smell. If you hurt the clutch it sends smoke signs, but that's not necessary a permanent damage. I am now passing 180k miles on the first original clutch, so don't worry until you really have a reason to. Never forget: cars have owner, Landrover have field service personnel.
Post #691138 5th Mar 2018 12:14pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
I'll try bleeding it when the weather warms up, other than that I'll leave it and see how it goes Thumbs Up

Thanks for the advice guys! Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #691140 5th Mar 2018 12:36pm
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Mountain_man



Member Since: 09 Dec 2011
Location: Right side of Offas Dyke
Posts: 756

Wales 
Have you got traction control? I thought the clutch on my T5 4motion was smelling after towing my brother out of our drive although I never touched the clutch. It was also juddering a lot. Conclusion was that the juddering was the brakes banging on with the TC and the smell was of brakes rather than clutch.
Post #691145 5th Mar 2018 12:51pm
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Fat Cog



Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Oxfordshire & Devon
Posts: 502

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
[quote="ickle"]If you've got 50k from the clutch, you've probably done better than most, although from reading on here mostly they die through knackered springs (I've had to replace 3) not worn out linings, and one hard session shouldn't burn it out.

50K good for a clutch?!?!?

Ive had three Pumas, all have been used for towing an Ifor Williams horse trailer, the first two Pumas covered 200k miles & both were still on the original clutch...& to open up an old debate, in my 2.4's when not towing I always set off in 2nd but on my 2.2 I use 1st. Since 1973...S1, Air Portable's, Defender's, but only my Wolf TUL HS GS remains
Post #691154 5th Mar 2018 1:20pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20561

United Kingdom 
My clutch went at 38k with no warning at all, no burning smells or nothing. Having said that it would have been the first generation clutch. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #691163 5th Mar 2018 1:40pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1802

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Fatcog - the original clutch on mine was rattling at 40k, I changed it at approx. 100k for reliability as users on here had had springs drop out and immobilise the car - I do a lot of cross channel work and didn't want to get stuck in France.

Next Borg & Beck lasted 300 miles before it rattled like the first one, after many, many emails B&B replaced it and paid for its fitting, the replacement lasted 6k before a spring dropped out and I replaced that with a Clutchfix unit.

I tow an Ifor 3.5 tipper most weeks and an Ifor 3.5 box van to and from France.

None of the clutch plates had any appreciable wear on the friction lining, its the springs made of cheese that fail. Apparently tdci focus and the like do the same....
Post #691243 5th Mar 2018 7:12pm
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Fat Cog



Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Oxfordshire & Devon
Posts: 502

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Hi Ickle...Now I'm worrying, I must have been lucky with the other two! Since 1973...S1, Air Portable's, Defender's, but only my Wolf TUL HS GS remains
Post #691259 5th Mar 2018 8:08pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1802

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
I think it must be a land rover thing.... Some bits will outlast the apocalypse, others make a Chinese disposable plastic spoon look like quality!

Worst still there appears to be no rhyme or reason why fails occur.
Post #691267 5th Mar 2018 8:36pm
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Fat Cog



Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Oxfordshire & Devon
Posts: 502

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Agreed & interestingly on a similar vein I was chatting to Chris AKA Zagato who reckons certain years have crap paintwork, panels etc & corrode more than others, I think in the modern world other manufacturers call it QC!

All three of my Pumas (touch wood) have been fairly well behaved with a few individual personality traits; the first one a 2008 seemed to love EGR valves & steering boxes whereas the second one had a less than impressive quality chassis & seemed to enjoy seeping oil from a few seals, my 3rd (& last) a 2016 2.2 has a particularly nasty habit of setting the alarm off after the engine has been cranked (it nearly gives me a coronary) & has a funny tinny spooling engine noise every couple of weeks which lasts for about 3 mins...funnily enough its been into JLR but they have been unable to solve the issue! Since 1973...S1, Air Portable's, Defender's, but only my Wolf TUL HS GS remains
Post #691276 5th Mar 2018 8:52pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Mountain_man wrote:
Have you got traction control?


I don't have TC (which I always thought was a good thing to be honest) but a great shout out all the same Thumbs Up

The more I read and think about it the more I am convinced that it was a combination of the Peak Tourqe Limiter and my poor choice of agressive 'clutch up / accelerator down' that caused the slippage which I believe has taken away some of the friction material.

I am happy to report that it hasn't smelt at all today and am gaining confidence in it again. I am still a bit worried that the biting point is higher than it used to be, like the pedal nearly comes all the way up before it engages but then the clutch itself, on the plus side, feels an awful lot smoother than it used to!

I have breakdown, so not too worries if it goes whilst I'm in a car park on my own Laughing - my biggest fear is that it'll go pop with the wife and kids on board (possibly towing) in the worst possible situation, so I'll be keeping a close eye on it and if my worries get the better of me I may ask a mate to help me split the box and inspect everything. I have a small oil leak I think between the boxes anyway so could be an excuse Thumbs Up Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #691291 5th Mar 2018 9:19pm
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