 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Callipers Rebuild. Tips fitting piston seal retaining ring? |
 
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006  
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Bend the top lip up. Grab with a pair of pliers and twist
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21st Apr 2016 3:21pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438  
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Much obliged
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21st Apr 2016 8:09pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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All done. Big thanks for the help here
My tip for getting the retaining metal rings out is pinch the rubber seal out of the ring first. Then you can clearly see where to put the screwdriver/pliers to pop it out rather than trying to pry up the solid lip of the seal below the retaining ring seal which will never move! 
I cleaned the filthy & rusty surfaces of the where the seals were with WD40 and a dremel with a small copper brush in. Very quick way to clean them up nicely and finished with brake cleaner. Here's a short video removing the old seal & popping the retaining ring out and cleaning up he surface here if anyone finds this looking for help as I was. Rickydodah's tip of using a g-clamp and a plate (I used an appropriate sized metal disc from a caliper wind back kit) worked perfectly. By perfect;y I mean I only trashed two retaining rings before getting the hang of it but great tip.
Photo below...  Click image to enlarge These were aftermarket buts bit have fitted well and are tight. I put the new pistons in the freezer to make them easier to slide into the new seals. After messing about with the old pistons I think this definitely helped them being being cold and shrunk. I picked up new 13mm 12 point bolts with the thread lock already applied just in case the old ones have had enough of being so damn tight. I've picked up a Gunson Eezibleed for the bleeding which I'll do this weekend after putting calipers back on. Thoughts on that device? (the one you attached to a spare wheel at ~15 psi) Thanks again. |
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22nd Apr 2016 4:15pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17569 
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For info, I nowadays use a Sykes Pickavant vacuum bleeder to bleed brakes and clutches, and provided that you are careful to make sure that the reservoir never empties it seems to work extremely well.
The first time I used it, which was to bleed up the clutch after a clutch change, I managed to empty the entire system of fluid in about a microsecond! I hadn't intended to do a full fluid change, but it proved very easy. |
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22nd Apr 2016 4:20pm |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
Those are great little tools, I originally found it on the first Morris Marina/Ital slave cyclinder change I ever done back in19??.
For whatever reason they sited the bleed nipple at the same level as the master cylinder and you could never get a great pedal with normal bleeding even a pressure bleeder........blimey that takes me back  I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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22nd Apr 2016 4:34pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
[quote="danridge"]All done. Big thanks for the help here
My tip for getting the retaining metal rings out is pinch the rubber seal out of the ring first. Then you can clearly see where to put the screwdriver/pliers to pop it out rather than trying to pry up the solid lip of the seal below the retaining ring seal which will never move!
I cleaned the filthy & rusty surfaces of the where the seals were with WD40 and a dremel with a small copper brush in. Very quick way to clean them up nicely and finished with brake cleaner. Here's a short video removing the old seal & popping the retaining ring out and cleaning up he surface here if anyone finds this looking for help as I was. Rickydodah's tip of using a g-clamp and a plate (I used an appropriate sized metal disc from a caliper wind back kit) worked perfectly. By perfect;y I mean I only trashed two retaining rings before getting the hang of it but great tip.
Photo below... Click image to enlarge These were aftermarket buts bit have fitted well and are tight. I put the new pistons in the freezer to make them easier to slide into the new seals. After messing about with the old pistons I think this definitely helped them being being cold and shrunk. I picked up new 13mm 12 point bolts with the thread lock already applied just in case the old ones have had enough of being so damn tight. I've picked up a Gunson Eezibleed for the bleeding which I'll do this weekend after putting calipers back on. Thoughts on that device? (the one you attached to a spare wheel at ~15 psi) Thanks again.[/quote did you split the two halve of brake callipers to remove and replace piston  scrap that your video crash to start with i see now |
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22nd Apr 2016 5:09pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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Yes there's no need to split them. Plenty of room. If you have compressed air then strategically placing some bits of wood between pistons means you can ease the pistons out a long way to then get them out by hand to save you struggling with mole grips or similar.
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22nd Apr 2016 7:17pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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Do you guys put any anti sieze compound on the Pistons or copper grease? To protect them as much as possible from corroding again.
Thanks. |
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23rd Apr 2016 7:41am |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
Little point in my opinion because as the Pistons retract any grease will be wiped off. The problems arise when the pads wear and more of the piston is exposed allowing the chromed surface to delaminate, unless you're using stainless pistons.
Looks like you've done a good job I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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23rd Apr 2016 8:58am |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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Thank you
I'll leave them as is then. I've liberally applied WD-40 which may or may not help and next time round this process should all be a lot quicker 
I didn't go for stainless, I figured it's done 110,000 miles on these so anything near that again will be satisfactory. Sincere thanks for the advice. pps... My half shafts have a lot of play in them! I should be doing that now with the wheels off and it on axle stands but I need the truck for Monday. Added to the list I guess |
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23rd Apr 2016 9:31am |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
Yes I've got a half shaft due for replacement too, what make will you be using? Genuine are a ridiculous price and I'm unsure of the quality of aftermarket.
 I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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23rd Apr 2016 9:12pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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I haven't even looked into this yet. Funds are a bit tight at the moment so it will have to remain on the to do list for now.
Let me know what you decide on? I bled the brakes yesterday with the easy ble I bled the brakes yesterday with the eezibleed. One of the nipples, although it ran clear and bubble free when wide open, as soon as I started to tighten it lots of bubbles were released. I would try again and wide-open the fluid runs out clear and purple free then as it is tight and bubbles are released. The brake pedal isn't 100% and I wondered if you'd ever seen this before? Cheers, Dan. |
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24th Apr 2016 6:33am |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
If you have a willing helper I'd try this. With the nipple closed get the helper to pressurise the system by pumping the pedal a half a dozen times and then keep the peddle depressed. Slacken the nipple and then nip it back up when the fluid stops coming out. Repeat process a couple of times each side and compare to what it was like. It sounds like it's drawing air back in from the nipple end. Either that or vacuum bleed them if you can get hold of the kit. Good luck
I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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24th Apr 2016 10:27am |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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Thank you sir I'll give it a go
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24th Apr 2016 10:34am |
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