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| Lost for Words Member Since: 18 Jun 2015 Location: Warminster, Wiltshire Posts: 200  |
Roof mounting is perfectly road legal so it makes no difference to the switch requirements. IMO, a switch is always worth having anyway.
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Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver  |
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18th Apr 2016 6:33am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20444 
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Oh yes,most perfectly legal for roof mounting so long as its switch isolated.
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18th Apr 2016 8:58am |
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| Lost for Words Member Since: 18 Jun 2015 Location: Warminster, Wiltshire Posts: 200 |
Yep, but if the lights are legal (E-marked etc.) then they can still be triggered from the main beam without a separate switch - roof mounting doesn't change that.
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Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver |
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18th Apr 2016 9:09am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20444
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Oh? I was on the understanding it would do?
Perhaps it's one of this misconceptions / grey areas. |
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18th Apr 2016 9:18am |
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| Lost for Words Member Since: 18 Jun 2015 Location: Warminster, Wiltshire Posts: 200 |
Nope, there's no vertical positioning requirement in the UK law for main beam headlamps (even obligatory ones). Without checking, I dare say there is for vehicle type approval, but that doesn't apply to this.
The only requirements for optional main beam headlamps are: Approval marking (i.e. E-marking) Colour of white or yellow The ability to switch to a dipped beam or cause another lamp to emit a dipped beam (so if wired into the main beam, that's already covered) Matched pairs to only be switchable together (but they don't have to be matched pairs - another misconception) To be adjustable when stationary. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/schedule/5/made I still recommend a switch always be fitted for flexibility though. Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
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18th Apr 2016 9:32am |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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We've actually got a tractor with fully functional dipping headlights on the roof from the factory which seems a bit odd to me. There's a switch in the cab to change it from bonnet mount to roof mount, but other than that they function as normal headlights.
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18th Apr 2016 9:49am |
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| Lost for Words Member Since: 18 Jun 2015 Location: Warminster, Wiltshire Posts: 200 |
An agricultural vehicle so no height requirements for dipped beams either.
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Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver |
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18th Apr 2016 9:54am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20444
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My spots aren't 'E' marked either, but everything else is.
Not many aux spots etc are, some are some aren't but they aren't classified as obligatory lights like headlights, indicators etc. I'd run your battery live in a convoluted tube too for protection and use thicker cable than you need to reduce voltage loss. 2mm thinwall would be ideal and overkill really. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Choice-Cables/Thi...2363042017 But for the price, ideal. Had my wiring in now for about 4 years and never had an issue, I like it extra protected both by fuse near the battery or near fuse box but also philsically underneath too hence the tubing. It's more professional too, when anyone or a garage looks underneath. |
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18th Apr 2016 3:29pm |
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| Shax Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: London Posts: 391  
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Just knocked up a quick diagram!!
This is what I've used before... The LED bar will only come on if the main beam is on AND the LED bar switch is closed.. Nice n MOT safe! Click image to enlarge ... ,-------, .. I [__][_]|__ .. I __ |"_|"__| .. "(o)====(o)" ^^_-^-_^-^_^^^^^--^^^^ PAUL G7ALW 14.200 USB 26FB458 / 27.275 SSB |
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18th Apr 2016 7:07pm |
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| yorkshireman Member Since: 28 Mar 2016 Location: North England Posts: 80 |
Well... what a box of frogs:
1. Bad Earth - sorted 2. Very Bad live feed - turns out the original feed I was using which fed the previously fitted LR spots was pitifully thin and wasn't protected at all on it's way back to the battery, running under the LR. At some point at the back of the engine it had rubbed through, grounded itself and melted through completely. Decent grade wire and conduit on order. 3. The LR Aux Spots switch I bought doesn't seem to be closing - I circuit tested it and it may be me being a tool, but shouldn't it close the circuit between 1 - 5 contacts, it illuminates green with the dash lights OK though. Contacts 1-3 / 1-4 show a closed circuit though. Clarification on this would be good please. 4. Direct battery tested the lights and they are fine. Almost there... |
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20th Apr 2016 7:27pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20444
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Sounds like it was a damned good job you checked, fire risk there!
The switch should illuminate with an orange light when on and none when off except the green when lights are on. |
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20th Apr 2016 9:21pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971
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1-3 and 1-4 should be connected when the switch is pressed, otherwise just 3-4. If you're testing with a multimeter that has a diode test (usually built in to the continuity test function) then you should get a reading 5-4 and 2-4 but not in reverse (because you're reverse biasing the diode). One way round it should read 1.5-2V, the other should read open circuit. Sounds like a very good thing you're going through this properly. Sadly it sounds like you've had a similarly bad experience with Land Rover fitted accessory wiring. Mine Defender came with a load of non-functioning add-on Land Rover lights on the roof rack and none of them worked. When I took the dash apart to tidy the wiring up and sort something else out I found out why. It was atrocious. I wire stuff up for a living when I'm not shoveling cow poo (yes that is a genuine job combination) and I'd have been embarrassed to send something out even half that bad. |
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21st Apr 2016 7:43am |
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| yorkshireman Member Since: 28 Mar 2016 Location: North England Posts: 80 |
Thanks for the note Cupboard, sounds like the switch might be OK. Quite staggered at the lack of care in wiring, the LR came from a very respectable main dealer, must be many out there that could be the same. What was even more amazing was the LR OE spots that were fitted hanging 'down' from the front bar had the drain holes at the top!! I understand that they probably were not meant to be mounted that way, but no-one had thought to at least drill a hole at the bottom, not surprisingly the lamps inside were completely knackered. I'll bet they weren't a cheap optional extra!
Anyway rant over... will update when I eventually get the LEDs working. |
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21st Apr 2016 7:38pm |
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| yorkshireman Member Since: 28 Mar 2016 Location: North England Posts: 80 |
SUCCESS... Light bar is now working. Went with the 'low side' wiring method and everything works as it should. By a process of elimination we ended up with new decent gauge feed, beefier relay, better splicing into high beam, better ground and the final simplest of them all... a new fuse in the high beam. Thanks all for the advice, very much appreciated. I'm happy that the finished job is now better wired, protected and as neat as it can be.
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24th Apr 2016 12:51pm |
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