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| Stiff1 Member Since: 09 Dec 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 597   
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So thinking for replacing the disks and pads all round on the 2007 110 Tdci, this will be my most ambitious mechanical job on the truck to date, DO or DON'T?
Also is this a suitable set to get, thought they were vented post 2007? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111697254404?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT Thanks in advance |
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28th Feb 2016 4:01pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 743  
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Discs and pad change is not too bad a job, hardest part is making sure that you don't get any dirt getting in the wheel bearings.
Don't forget you will need a drive flange gasket. |
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28th Feb 2016 4:55pm |
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| dave18 Member Since: 11 Jul 2015 Location: Gorleston, Great Yarmouth Posts: 497 
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Get a manual and have a read through is the best bit and you will also need a 52mm deep socket
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28th Feb 2016 5:19pm |
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| Leviathan Member Since: 24 Oct 2015 Location: Staffs Posts: 248
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110 tdci front discs are vented. Ive done mine recently. Not sure about the rears.
Have a look on youtube for 'how to' videos. Also change your brake fluid if you havent recently. My car had fsh and the fluid was black! |
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28th Feb 2016 5:34pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 743
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As dave18 has pointed out, you will need a socket for the stub axle / wheel bearing nut and a new nut, some threadlock
and a suitable torque wrench Looking at the YouTube videos is good tip as is the Haynes manual.... |
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28th Feb 2016 5:56pm |
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| kmac Member Since: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Middlesex Posts: 1309 
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Haynes doesn't cover 2007 onwards but perhaps not much has changed with the brakes?
There are the LR workshop manuals online |
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28th Feb 2016 6:04pm |
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| RoddyK05 Member Since: 08 Apr 2015 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 633  
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Got mine done last week - front & rear. I bought all genuine parts from Duckworths, I think genuine is the best way to go, but expensive. I bought pattern part discs for my last Discovery and they were warped within 6 months so it'll be genuine parts from now on. Put it into my local garage to get the work done as I wouldn't feel confident enough to do such safety critical work, also I work full time and do a fair bit of O/T so wouldn't have had the time anyway. I didn't think the brakes felt too bad before, but it needed all the discs doing and obviously the pads at the same time. Glad I got it done, that should be it for a few years now.
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28th Feb 2016 7:45pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637 
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Removing the bolts holding the caliper to the axle can be a pig.
You need a 13mm star socket, suggest you pick up a 1/2 inch star socket also, if this is your first time, consider buying new socket so the teeth are nice and sharp (defined) the thread lock on the bolts make these really tight to remove. if you have access to apply heat, then be very careful, apply to the threaded section that is into the axle itself, not the caliber. Cheers Andy |
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28th Feb 2016 9:28pm |
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| Stiff1 Member Since: 09 Dec 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 597
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Thank you all. Looks like I need to buy a few tools then.
What are the thoughts on the parts I listed? Also links to a few good YouTube examples would be appreciated, don't want to follow someone who does it wrong. |
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29th Feb 2016 12:58am |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Mintex seems a popular choice,I fitted Delphi Lockheed pads an discs,which I believe were oem suppliers at some point,(along with Delphi Lucas and Delphi AP brake calipers).Also need new caliper bolts and maybe slider pins.The fronts are vented but not the rears.As said, you need a quality 12 point socket and (maybe) a 3'+ long breaker bar to shift the occasional stubborn caliper bolt and it's worth spending a couple of quid on a quality single socket, I doubt a typical diy socket would survive.I have a few Gedore sockets,less than a fiver each.I had to move the coil springs to get easy access to the rear caliper bolts.
If you have abs,you'll need to remove the rotator ring from the inside of the rear disc,or buy new ones for about £300 (each  ,I think).They can be a bit stubborn to remove as the nuts will be rusted to  you'll end up removing a few studs anorl and you can only fit a 10mm ring AND open ended spanner in the small gap.
Not a particularly hard job,what slows you down is stubborn nuts/bolts, front flange drives sometimes need grinding off and while it's apart clean and re-grease the bearings and calipers. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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29th Feb 2016 1:13pm |
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