 | Home > Technical > central locking - grrrhh ! |
 
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298   
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i know central locking has been on here numerous times but I'm trying to understand where the signal / power comes from to operate the rear o/s door.
for no reason its stopped working agin. its not like the problem I had with the drivers door before it was replaced....ie like the actuator was struggling to move the lock. this simply does not work....but when does / did it operates as if there's no resistance so I didn't some cleaning / oiling will make a blind bit of difference. I'm hoping its nothing to do with the wiring within the rubber connection between door and b pillar. so where else to look? many thanks. |
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21st Sep 2013 9:18pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387  
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It's almost certainly the thing you say you hope it's not! Look in the rubber tube first!
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21st Sep 2013 9:26pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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back shortly....just off to have a look.
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21st Sep 2013 9:36pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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Always check the wires in the rubber boot first
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21st Sep 2013 9:41pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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yep that'll be it.
broken ! why do they use wire with less gurth than that of a gnat dick ? 
oh well I guess the dealer can sort that while doing the MOT and hopefully picking up anything else on the warranty. |
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21st Sep 2013 9:45pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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If I decide not to get it 'fixed' via the dealers is there a 'best fix' ?
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21st Sep 2013 9:54pm |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1782  
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When one of mine packed up I was away in France, only things I had to hand were some chocky block connectors, some ex power tool 2 core flex and some silicone sealer, 2 .5 years on, that one is still sweet!
I wouldn't recommend the chocky blocks, but decent quality rubber covered mains flex is of a much better rating, has finer strands and is more flexible than the tat LR use. Keith |
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21st Sep 2013 10:25pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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thanks Keith
presumably choc blocks in the b pillar and again in the door? will have another look in the day light but wonder if its possible to use some better wire and make it look like a factory fit? |
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21st Sep 2013 10:37pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Use decent crimp connectors and the proper tool, avoid choc blocks as many corrode and Scotchloks. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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22nd Sep 2013 9:59am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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thank you bear100 for the offer.
I may well have some already. Steve - are you suggesting that its best to cut the middle section (in the rubber) out and crimp in a new section (crimping both sides of the rubber flexi or simply crimp the existing back together at point of failure. I'll go have another look but gut feeling is its not possible to use the existing connections to solder in a complete new length of wire (the existing connections look very small / fine and manufactured / non serviceable)? obviously the end within the b pillar is a plug connection but is the other end hard wired to solenoid or is it a plug connection? if its a plug both ends might simply replace and do again in another 3 years? (like make it part of the 3 year service schedule so to speak? |
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22nd Sep 2013 10:05am |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 501 
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The main problem with the Land Rover door harnesses (apart from the routing of the convoluted grommet), is that they they use a small gauge cable (0.75mm˛).
The 2-way MQS connectors, used as the interconnection between the door harness and the rear side doors link harness, can't (officially) accommodate a larger gauge cable. However, you can squeeze 1.0mm˛ into the terminals, but no larger than this. If you use a different type of sealed 2-way connector, that will accommodate a larger gauge cable (Superseal, Econoseal, Metripack), the connector then won't fit through the hole in the door pillar. . Paul. 1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
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22nd Sep 2013 11:41am |
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| rs2315 Member Since: 16 Sep 2012 Location: yorkshire Posts: 125 |
I did a search on central locking, and came up with this thread.
My rear o/s door interior latch is not going down when I press fob to lock doors. All other doors lock correctly. After reading this thread it seems it could be a wire problem. Amateur mechanic that I am, could someone explain clearly where to look for possible damage to wire, one of the posts mentions checking wires in rubber boot?? Where is rubber boot located? Thanks for any input. rs2315. |
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2nd Nov 2013 2:34pm |
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| WelshGas Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Vale of Glamorgan Posts: 935  
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There is a rubber corrugated tube between the door frame and door where the hinges are. This tube/boot covers the wires that go from vehicle into the door for the central locking. Should be able to pull the end out of the door frame and check the wires visually and the tension in case the break in the wire is at the other end of the boot.
 LANDYWATCH
Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php |
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2nd Nov 2013 2:51pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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well LR have kindly sorted it for me?
(while they were at it a new prop shaft and bumper |
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2nd Nov 2013 3:22pm |
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