![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Clonk Gone |
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redzob Member Since: 16 Jul 2014 Location: St. Peter Port Posts: 137 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Interesting post - can you provide more details?
thanks! ![]() Vespa GTS 300 Way too many racing bikes. |
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Nevillerover Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 224 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Not too much to say, horrible clonk on taking up drive which I originally thought was drive train slack but half shafts and driving members plus heavier oil in diffs didn't improve. So, bought the Britpart joint on a casting so disn't need a press. Jack the chassis up six inches leaving wheels on ground to enable a spanner on the big nut (or on a 110 ispanner hits the fuel tank) undo big nut and two bolts and replace. That's it. No more clonk and the little bit slack that is naturally in a Landy drive train doesn't actually make any noise, it's the joint that makes the noise.
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x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
+1
I did mine a few weeks back and swapped it for the Britpart extra articulation adjustable one. Also have lost the clunk. It's a simple job but I did have to grind a socket down to fit perfect as there's a lot of torque in that main nut. On the first photo, you can see the main nut and on the left next to the exhaust, two of the 4 bolts on the A-Frame which attaches to the fulcrum. The other 2 are on the other side. ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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Nevillerover Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 224 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I didn't consider grinding down a socket as I found that I could get a big ring spanner on it once I had jacked the chassis up, and I then whacked the spanner with a copper mallet to get it going and to tighten the new one. Anyway, it's a pretty easy DIY job if you have a tool for the big nut.
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Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6324 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I know you get it any way to an extent but did this solve any of the horse cart type suspension (bang clatter) you get when driving along over small pot holes with no weight in the back?
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x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That sounds like the rattly brake pad syndrome? Craig Rogers
2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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Nevillerover Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 224 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've got rattley brakes at back but am going to try new pins and springs. It seems that works sometimes.
I think that the more modern 110s have too high rear tyre pressures. On my old 110 it was 48 for towing now it's 48 for normal and 65 for towing. It makes anything rattle. |
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SimonDavies Member Since: 15 Mar 2012 Location: Swansea Posts: 244 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
When you say the ball joint pre mounted on the bracket, do you mean like this .. http://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-bracket.html
Also, what mileages are you guys changing these at? I have the symptoms but my truck has been doing it from around 32k miles. |
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x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes, but I went for the new adjustable and extra articulation one.
http://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-brack...ation.html As for mileage, I guess there's loads of different variables that contribute to wear rate but 32K mileage isn't too surprising if it is that. You can check it by either removing it or get a long bar and lever the A Frame to see if there's any excessive movement. Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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SimonDavies Member Since: 15 Mar 2012 Location: Swansea Posts: 244 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I think I'll get it off over the weekend to have a good look. I have been living with it for quite some time now so it wouldnt hurt. Thanks for the swift reply.
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x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Once it's off, you might think that there's nothing wrong with it as the ball joint isn't loose. However when you wiggle the main pin, there should be a lot of friction and not move easily.
Whichever new one you get, you'll probably have a grease nipple on there make sure that it's been filled with grease. I couldn't really tell on mine so I put some in there anyway. Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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Nevillerover Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 224 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I didn't get movement with a pry bar but as you say, once it's off, if it moves easily its knackered. The new ones are very stiff.
I didn't see a grease nipple, I'm sure there isn't one on a standard replacement. |
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x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I maybe only the adjustable ones that have the nipple. Craig Rogers
2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6324 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
talking about using a pry bar.....
I presume you can see some movement by just pushing up on the A frame (albeit not very much) using your hands? I'm pretty sure the knocking / clatter I'm talking about isn't the brake pads albeit it's not all the time. Also when pulling off do / did you sometimes get the feeling of the suspension 'sitting down'.....a bit like if you were doing a max speed pulling away from lights in rear wheel sports car....the suspension kind of sits down onto the tarmac just before you get forward movement? |
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