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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

United Kingdom 
decent video &feature=related

There is a lag, but if you give it a few more revs it locks faster. from memory the defender systems does it 20 times a second
Post #43364 23rd Oct 2010 9:16am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582

United Kingdom 
Thanks Mike.

However I suppose my question is how long does it take from the first sign of wheel spin to TC first applying the brakes?

Once it has kicked in yes I can see the brakes being pulsed 20 times a second

Brendan
Post #43373 23rd Oct 2010 11:25am
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
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In my experience, its a fraction of a second. what that fraction is though I'm not sure.
Post #43389 23rd Oct 2010 4:58pm
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Sonic3d



Member Since: 28 Jan 2008
Location: Ross on Wye
Posts: 1505

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Stornoway Grey
The problem with the Puma TC is it's not smooth in applying the brake and just snatches Thumbs Up
Post #43436 24th Oct 2010 5:46pm
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

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Agree with that. A mate was driving my car today going up a steep bank - front left came off the ground and the limitations of the TC were clear. To be honest I think LSD's might be better
Post #43443 24th Oct 2010 8:16pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8065

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Sonic3d wrote:
The problem with the Puma TC is it's not smooth in applying the brake and just snatches Thumbs Up


certainly the pre 11MY ones do. Bosch system so far seems better.

its the snathing issue with the TC and rear DL that can cause the issues in response to the other posts. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #43473 25th Oct 2010 1:00pm
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

United Kingdom 
jst wrote:


its the snathing issue with the TC and rear DL that can cause the issues in response to the other posts.


how? the tc isnt going to be an issue on the rears when the locker is on. surely the problem is that if you are used to driving a tc (on all 4 wheels) vehicle, you get used to more revs to lock it up faster when you need it. then you put a rear locker on, get a boat load more traction, but if you drive the same way as you did with tc, as you ascend a tricky bit, you lose traction on the front wheels because the weight is on the rear, you give it some gas, you shoot up because of the locker, and the spinning front smacks down on the track and you shock load the front half shafts and break one...?
Post #43490 25th Oct 2010 5:51pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8065

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
in your example all bar the bit about landing, say you spin one front wheel, TC stops the wheel by reacting quickly and harshly and can break stuff specifically related to that wheel, if no other wheel can loose traction and the car cant go fwd then something else in the driveline may go - diff for example. caliper bolts is one thing i know of from my experience there are other examples given here on previous posts.

i have explained it the way i understand it in my previous post how the RDL can add to the problem by expanding on Andrews post, that is the way i was taught and now teach it. you have had a response from Dave whose opinion and knowledge i rate very highly so you have another opinion.

i believe it is the way the TC on pre 11MY reacts that causes the problems.

other makes/models i have limited off road experience in so cant comment on how their TC systems might work on vehicles. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #43499 25th Oct 2010 6:33pm
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

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The thing is though that if there IS no traction, then the wheel will spin anyway. It wont turn, stop, turn, stop. the TC doesn't work that way. and I take your point, but I can't see how the biting and unbiting process on a wheel which does have some traction but is slipping is going to put any kind of shock load on the half shaft. Let's face it its just the brakes after all. The shock load is going to come when that spinning wheel stops dead with the weight of the vehicle smacking it down.

I'm going with Dave's (and ARB) view on this. That's not to say other points aren't valid, of course they are, but for me the weight of experience of those guys clinches it.
Post #43504 25th Oct 2010 6:48pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8065

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
if there is no traction the wheel will spin as you say assuming the other wheel has exactly the same level of traction. if the available traction is different between the two wheels the wheels will spin at different rates and TC will the activate.

i am just going on my experience.

I also agree with Dave, technically it should not be a problem, but practice has shown me it is. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #43513 25th Oct 2010 9:12pm
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JaffaTheNeste



Member Since: 02 May 2010
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 10

Finland 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Defender Traction control
Hey gentlemen.

This might be old news, but as i looked though this thread i noticed that nobody pointed out that the Defender TC can be disabled without removing any fuses or relays.

Just press the brake pedal 10 or so times after you start the engine within a 5-10 second time limit. The (abs) light will remain on (at least for a while if i remember right), i use it in mud or snow or when some wheel spin is preferable.


It will turn back on the next time you start the car again.

Enjoy!
Post #43935 30th Oct 2010 10:31am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2645

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Re: Defender Traction control
JaffaTheNeste wrote:
This might be old news, but as i looked though this thread i noticed that nobody pointed out that the Defender TC can be disabled without removing any fuses or relays. Just press the brake pedal 10 or so times after you start the engine within a 5-10 second time limit. The (abs) light will remain on (at least for a while if i remember right), i use it in mud or snow or when some wheel spin is preferable.


Are you sure? AFAIK this was only possible on the Td5 Confused
Post #43941 30th Oct 2010 1:10pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8065

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
it works for Puma pre 11MY ones. i thought it was 10 times with the engine running but can't remember now. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #43964 30th Oct 2010 5:08pm
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JaffaTheNeste



Member Since: 02 May 2010
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 10

Finland 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Quote:
Are you sure? AFAIK this was only possible on the Td5 Confused



Works on mine, a -07 puma.
The TC light swithes on for a few seconds if it is done right.
Post #44101 1st Nov 2010 6:00pm
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

United Kingdom 
Also works on mine, tried it yesterday. Many thanks Jaffa, this'll be really useful for snow/sand
Post #45146 13th Nov 2010 1:00pm
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