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Bristol 90XS

Member Since: 31 Oct 2010
Location: North of Bath
Posts: 223

Leisure Battery

I have an Optima Yellow top leisure battery alongside an Odyssey Red 1500 I think.... Will check tomorrow.

The voltage on the yellow top drops to 12.1V when the engine is switched off though - albeit it is at 14.2V when the engine is on and the split charge relay has switched across.

My Waeco fridge won't run at this voltage and I think it goes into battery protect mode - but works perfectly when the car is running and the leisure battery is at its 14V...

Does this mean the battery is kaput? I have had it for 6 years now - has been one of those for and forget items until now, but am going camping in a few weeks and won't have an electric hook up so will nee the battery!!

If it is kaput - what would be recommended? Obviously the yellow top has done well for 6 years and fits with all cables etc but would the Odyssey version be a better buy?

James

21st Jun 2015 9:42pm

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

once a battery starts dropping below 12.6v resting no load its on its way out

battery at 12v =25% left
12.2v =50% charge left

so at 12.1v its knackered really

but might be worth giving it a good charge on mains charger then leave for few hours and checking resting voltage then just to make sure

21st Jun 2015 9:50pm

Bristol 90XS

Member Since: 31 Oct 2010
Location: North of Bath
Posts: 223

Thanks Munch - have done that as thought would check - had it charging overnight and as soon as disconnected it dropped to 12V again.

Appreciate the response seems to confirm my suspicions.

So what battery to replace with? Need one of similar size to fit under passenger seat - looking at another Optima but also just came across a virtue AGM battery and is a third of the price? Normally would buy expensive as cheap normally means buy twice - but are Varta any good?

Thanks
James

21st Jun 2015 10:12pm

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

Varta are one of the big makers , alot of cars come new with varta

21st Jun 2015 10:16pm

Bristol 90XS

Member Since: 31 Oct 2010
Location: North of Bath
Posts: 223

Just had a look at them - they are lead acid batteries - probably not ideal for a 4x4?

21st Jun 2015 10:18pm

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

Why is a lead acid not for a 4x4 ?

21st Jun 2015 10:21pm

gilarion

Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5110

2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green

Wondered that myself, always had lead acid batteries as leisure batteries. Cause technology has changed, but, not that much! But perhaps there is now something different, I do not know about, after all there is that thing called the gadget show on channel four or is five or some other channel I do not watch

For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1

21st Jun 2015 10:29pm

Bristol 90XS

Member Since: 31 Oct 2010
Location: North of Bath
Posts: 223

Maybe an incorrect assumption from me that a lead acid battery wouldn't be as good as a gel battery for 4x4 use but the more I think of it if the battery is working upside down then I've got bigger problems!!

Is there any advantage to a gel or agm battery over lead acid?

Thanks!
James

21st Jun 2015 10:35pm

leeds

Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8581

Waeco are a decent brand. I would suggest you have a read of the instruction manual.

Yes chances are your battery is on its way out

Quote:

My Fridge attempts to start but will not run

With almost 100% certainty we can say this is caused by your wiring and not the fridge. The automatic low voltage cut out circuit needs to measure the voltage under the load of the motor. It does this every 30 seconds to see if the voltage has increased to a safe level. This test only takes one second and if the voltage is too low it stops immediately. This explains the one second burst from your motor, it is simply testing your wiring.

Voltage measurements at the battery are meaningless. The refrigerator can only read what it is actually receiving after deducting the losses in your wiring socket and plugs. Also, the reading is meaningless unless the fridge is running because voltage drop cannot be see without a load. Voltage drop in car wiring causes 90% of our service calls. If you install decent car cigarette wiring or a dedicated socket for the fridge you will have many years of trouble free operation.

Also

Quote:

What is the HIGH/LOW switch for? (HIGH/MEDIUM/LOW switch on CF50)

This is your battery saving device to protect your fridge and car battery. Battery protection is built into all of our compressor fridges. The fridge is not allowed to run lower than 10.4 volts because most common lead acid batteries in cars can be seriously damaged or destroyed by allowing them to become completely flat or completely discharge, not to mention the extreme inconvenience caused by not being able to start your car! Also, if the supply voltage from the battery becomes too low, electronics and motors tend to overheat. This occurs with all electronics and all motors no matter who the manufacturer is. And that is why we do not allow this to happen to WAECO products.

Basically, in most situations you should run your fridge on the LOW setting - this will allow your battery to run down to 10.4 volts then the fridge will cut out. On HIGH, the fridge will drain your battery to 11.7 volts then shut off. Therefore your fridge will run for longer on the low setting.

At 12.1 volts battery should run fridge unless you have losses in wiring etc . Or that as soon as fridge load is put onto battery the battery voltage drops below the setting on the battery protection.

So check battery and the wiring to fridge as well.

Brendan

21st Jun 2015 10:39pm

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

They all basically lead acid

standard lead acid are flooded cells , normally cheaper , as fitted to 99% of cars
agm are where the acid is soaked in to a glass matt to help make them spill proof
gel is acid in gel form so more spill proof

Really all depends on what space you got, what output you want , and what vehicle is used for etc etc

21st Jun 2015 10:42pm

Bristol 90XS

Member Since: 31 Oct 2010
Location: North of Bath
Posts: 223

Thanks Brendan, didn't realise my fridge had a high/medium/low setting! Will have a look at it, have measured at the output which is a 12v socket directly from fuse box directly attached to leisure battery and had 11.7v so this would seem to suggest it's set to high.

Either way though seems the battery isn't holding charge that it should as there is no load when I'm measuring the drop to 12v.

James

21st Jun 2015 10:51pm

Cupboard

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

You do pay a premium for AGM batteries and I'm not convinced they're any better for most purposes.

We bought a second hand tractor which came with a pretty new Optima (same size as people put in Defenders) and that was one of the most pathetic and short lived batteries we've ever had in a tractor, it was forever needing jump starting in winter. Now been replaced with a proper tractor battery (of about the same capacity but lower CCA as you put in a Defender) and it's been fine since.

Have a read of this and make up your own mind:
http://www.atlanticmotorhomeservices.co.uk/battery-technology.php

22nd Jun 2015 5:11pm

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

I always stick with lead acid as never found any of the so called longer lasting premiun batterys any better all seen to last about 5 yrs

use exide,varta,bosch etc

only thing i would do is use a gel battery in side cabin area during to gassing when charging , alot of batterys are called sealed but still have pressure regulating valves for gassing if overcharged so still possible for then to vent explosive gases

ive seen a few batterys explode, not a good thing to be near!

22nd Jun 2015 5:48pm

Bristol 90XS

Member Since: 31 Oct 2010
Location: North of Bath
Posts: 223

Thanks for all the replies.

Have just been out with the multimeter and checked the batteries.

Primary Battery (Odyssey PC1500) is at 13,1V with engine off - goes to 14.6V with engine on.
Second Leisure battery is at 12.15V and goes to 14.55V when engine turned on. Ive driven 200 or so miles today so should have got a decent charge. When the engine is turned off, second battery immediately dropped to 13.3V and during the next minute dropped to 13V holding the multi meter against the terminals. Checked it again in 5 minutes and down to 12.4V, 5 minutes later down to 12.25V, 5 minutes again and down to 12.18V.

So looks like battery is not holding charge and is kaput!!

Now replacement battery - replacement Optima yellow top, has lasted 5 years and doesn't need venting - all wiring will fit and will go straight into battery compartment BUT is £160 cheapest place found. Or replace with Varta Deep Cycle - I can find one that is similar dimensions, will need wiring slightly changed but will need venting... Devon 4x4 battery tray covers the vent hole that I had for the original OE battery so will need to find a new exit although quick search and found a decent looking one for £86.

Choices choices!!

James

22nd Jun 2015 7:20pm

Bristol 90XS

Member Since: 31 Oct 2010
Location: North of Bath
Posts: 223

@Brendan - thanks for the Waeco detail!! I didn't relaise my fridge had a High/Med/Low setting as is controlled by the menu. Its set to high so was cutting out at 11.7V as you say!!!

Once get battery sorted will drop this down to Low as it runs from a leisure battery so doesn't matter!!!

Thanks
James

22nd Jun 2015 7:22pm

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