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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
the fountain of all knowledge - painting
help.

I need to turn around some painting in a hurry.

I've got some 0.9mm sheet steel arriving from laser cutting and need to get a coat of paint on asap. I planned simply to whack a coat of smooth finish hammerite. my plan was a single coat no prep would do it but am I being overly optimistic.

this isn't going to be seen close up just needs to be reasonably corrosion resistant as it's going to be outdoors albeit under cover.

any thoughts recommendations please Thumbs Up
Post #813483 4th Feb 2020 8:38am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1218

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Painting is rarely anything to do with the paint itself but the prep work. Make sure it's all clean and dry first.

I'd personally just buy a rattle can and put a couple of coats rather than a single one. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #813489 4th Feb 2020 8:50am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
so the steel will be clean / dry. do I need to do anything else ie put white spirits on it or anything?

a couple of coats of hammerite it is then Thumbs Up
Post #813493 4th Feb 2020 9:04am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Caterham

Hammerite
Will be OK for your needs, but as time is your enemy, this is not fast drying, 12- 24hrs to handle
1 month or so to fully harden, (more than likely) even if bolted in place by then.

DTM
There are a number of direct to metal paints that will do the job, I've used this with success for years.

https://www.paints4trade.com/direct-to-met...tid=259052

Note:
Your incoming steel part/s will have a surface film of oil (almost certainly) even if you can't perceive it
degrease this, thinners, alcohol...(not white spirit), key the surface with wet and dry before painting.

Good Luck SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #813494 4th Feb 2020 9:28am
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
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United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
Any paint will require at least some prep to be successful. Lazer cutting leaves sharp edges which will rust first. For longevity you'll need to round the sharp edges and key the entire surface. White spirits will leave an oily residue which will prevent proper paint adhesion.

For speed, file the edges, key the metal with 120 grit abrasive and then degrease with panel wipe or rubbing alcohol Thumbs Up 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
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Post #813495 4th Feb 2020 9:41am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
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United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Degrease, wet blast to prepare surface and blunt the edges, acid wash, prime, and paint. Probably ott in this case, but will exceed oil industry off-shore standards.

If the parts are laser cut, why not get them ZP&P or YP&P, or even galvanised?
Post #813506 4th Feb 2020 10:43am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
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Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
If it's a big 0.9mm sheet then galvanising stands a fair chance of warping it without a jig to hold it down. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #813507 4th Feb 2020 10:45am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17388

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Good point, I'd forgotten he said it was flimsy. Blasting would require skill too to prevent damage.

Smooth edges, degrease then spray would be more appropriate.
Post #813518 4th Feb 2020 11:55am
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windy81



Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: North Wales
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Wales 1992 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Firenze Red
etch prime and paint. fast as fook
Post #813521 4th Feb 2020 12:02pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
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United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Are you sure it'll come clean? I worked at a laser profilers and all our mild steel was oiled to stop corrosion. There'll usually be a little pip on each profile where the cut started and finished that'll need filing off too. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #813530 4th Feb 2020 12:59pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Shocked

got the steel plates now. I only have tomoz to sort.

/\ thinners mentioned which makes me think white spirit but /\ suggests not white spirits.

thanks x4skp. looks like a trip to toolstation tomorroz to pick up some dtm paint.

any help on the alcohol much appreciated thanks everyone. Thumbs Up
Post #813635 4th Feb 2020 7:33pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4210

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I’d use xylene thinners to clean the metal. You can get it in Toolstation etc. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #813638 4th Feb 2020 7:38pm
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1218

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Thinners only required if spraying and mixing yourself (I.e. with compressor).

I've used brake cleaner in the past as it's meant to get rid of all oil residue for obvious reasons and then evaporate off.

One thing not mentioned so far is if the surface is very smooth it might be worth rubbing it over with some sandpaper to provide better adhesion. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #813639 4th Feb 2020 7:39pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
/\ thank you for the sand paper / smooth surface.

I presume the thinners is still a good idea on the metal even if using a rolling (or not ?) Thumbs Up
Post #813697 5th Feb 2020 7:39am
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sako243



Member Since: 08 Jul 2014
Location: Wales
Posts: 1218

Wales 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
I wouldn't bother with thinners unless you're spray painting, usually there's just no need.

To be honest I'd just pop down to Halfords and grab a couple of rattle cans and put a few coats on with those. There is a point where you do too much, basically as long as the surface is clean and keyed the paint should stick. Ed
82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6
95 Defender 110 300Tdi
Post #813704 5th Feb 2020 8:29am
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