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Tia4

Member Since: 15 May 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 48

Alpine window seals

Can anybody help me I have ordered some seals for my alpine Windows for my 300tdi 90 R reg have looked and ordered DBF500030 which having looked on line I believe are right but speaking to paddocks they say it's part number 302177 that I need so before I pull mine apart which is right. Also if anyone has any tips on this job ?

23rd May 2016 2:49pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

If yours is before 1987 (doubt) you need 302177, this is for 5 mm glas. After that its's DBF500030, for 4 mm thick glas. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite

23rd May 2016 3:12pm

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

and do not forget filler strip 302178 and you will find one of these helpful Glazing Tool for Rubber Window Seal (Claytonrite) and soppy water

Fitting the new seal

Fit the rubber seal around the aperture pushing it well into the corners to determine the length required. Cut the rubber approx. 25mm over length (depending on the size of the window) with good square joints to make a really tight butt joint. Remove the seal and apply a small bead of silicone sealant into the panel groove and then refit the rubber around the aperture, ensuring that the butt joint is at the top.

With the rubber in place apply soppy water into the window groove. Push the window into the rubber seal at the bottom. Using the glazing tool work the lip of the rubber over the edge of the window.

To fit the filler strip, feed it through the eye of the glazing tool and then work it into the channel in the rubber seal. Use plenty of lubricant to ease fitment. Start with the joint at the bottom (opposite that of the rubber section). Be careful not to stretch the filler strip as you go, otherwise it will shrink back at a later date. Cut the end with a few millimetres of overlap and push it into the groove so that it butts the other end with a tight joint.

this will probable be cheaper than LR glassing tool as shown below

Last edited by dorsetsmith on 23rd May 2016 4:11pm. Edited 5 times in total

23rd May 2016 3:23pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

^ ... or use special glazing tool:

Click image to enlarge

Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite

23rd May 2016 3:28pm

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

LR part number for glazing tool ?

23rd May 2016 3:37pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

LOLA001

23rd May 2016 3:41pm

Tia4

Member Since: 15 May 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 48

Thanks for your replies. Dorsetsmith bit confused which doesn't take much, when you said about the filler strip jointing at the bottom opposite the rubber section do you mean the window seal is jointed at the top and the filler strip is jointed at the bottom? Or am I completely got the wrong end of the stick

23rd May 2016 9:29pm

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