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funrover



Member Since: 12 Dec 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 130

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Engine Removal or Gearbox for clutch change
Hi chaps,

I'm all set for swapping my clutch on Monday, this will be the first time I attempt such a big job (for me).

There's not a lot of info on the web about doing this on a Puma, I've got the workshop manual, but I was wondering:

A) If anyone has done it, any tips? (I bought the latest clutch parts to hopefully smooth out any further problems)
B) Should I take the engine out or drop the gearbox. For TD5's e.t.c most people said that the amount of work involved is about the same, with the engine out option being preferable if you have a crane, which I do.
C) Anyone know solid mounting points for the TDCI block for a crane?

Thanks for the help,

Ben Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it!
Land Rover rebuild video series here:
Post #354038 27th Aug 2014 7:18pm
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martinfiattech



Member Since: 13 Nov 2013
Location: leicester
Posts: 422

England 
Just take the box out mate it`s easier, while it`s out drop off the transfer box have a look at the intermediate shaft between the two boxes, check the splines for ware and replace if worn, change the seals while your there.

Also change the slave cylinder too, do it all so you don`t have to strip it again later on. Excuse the spelling I`am better with spanners and wires.
Post #354055 27th Aug 2014 8:14pm
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funrover



Member Since: 12 Dec 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 130

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Thanks Martin!

What would you use to attach gearbox to engine hoist incidentally? Would recovery straps work? Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it!
Land Rover rebuild video series here:
Post #354056 27th Aug 2014 8:22pm
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martinfiattech



Member Since: 13 Nov 2013
Location: leicester
Posts: 422

England 
Myself I use a set of engine slings and heavy chains to support the whole lot. On a gear box lift or a platform I`ve made to fit on a trolly jack. Get a few good blocks of wood to keep the box form tipping.
If you have good strong straps and know what your doing it`s easy, be aware it`s a big and heavy lump, it won`t sit steady, the transfer box will try to pull it over, some times it`s easier to remove the transfer box first then the main box it`s self. If you choose this way make sure you don`t catch the seals on refitting

You may need to brace the engine in case it tilts on it`s self.
Pull in a few favours and get a few strong blokes to assist they can take a bit of wiggling to get in and out. Put some coppa slip on the mounting dowls, in case it has to come out again.

Clutch bleeding can sometimes be easier if you back bleed it. If you try to prime the slave cylinder before hand by GENTLY squashing the piston in and then pouring fluid in until no more air comes out, it may take a few goes, it can save time and effort, you will get covered in fluid once the box is home but it`s made bleeding easier for me.

Don`t forget to chock the wheels if it`s not fully off the ground Excuse the spelling I`am better with spanners and wires.
Post #354068 27th Aug 2014 9:22pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20294

United Kingdom 
And don't get under it.
Post #354072 27th Aug 2014 9:35pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17343

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If possible get hold of a transmission jack. Take the transfer box off, then the gearbox. On a 110 you can do the job without disturbing the exhaust provided you just roll the gearbox back on the jack and don't want to take it out altogether. You will need to disconnect the clutch hydraulics to get enough movement (but you'll be changing the slave cylinder/release bearing anyway).

The engine will stay put and won't tilt so needs no extra support.

Check the gearbox output shaft splines before refitting the transfer box. Clean and lube the gear lever ball etc as well, and lube the clutch pedal pivots and the gearchange experience will be transformed.

I found the easiest way to bleed the clutch was with a vacuum bleeder, but be careful because the reservoir (which is inaccessible) holds about a teaspoon of fluid - I totally drained the system in a millisecond to start with!

A clutch change actually isn't difficult but can be daunting the first time. Be carefull with the t-box and gearbox due to the weight. An average strength man can lift either but they're heavy enough to do you a life-changing injury if they fall on you under the car.
Post #354076 27th Aug 2014 9:48pm
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funrover



Member Since: 12 Dec 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 130

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Thanks for help everyone! Will let you know how it goes... Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it!
Land Rover rebuild video series here:
Post #354202 28th Aug 2014 2:08pm
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