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couplands

Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

Vincent,

I've pulled the spare switch apart, very easy to unclip the parts. I can easily see the internal lamp and can isolate it from the rest of the switch. I just need to work out the right circuit. Easiest would be to run a wire back from the work light, but there must be a more elegant way.

Getting there slowly.

Cheers

Simon

10th Feb 2014 5:35pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

That would indeed be the easiest solution, why not run a three stranded wire from the switch in the dash to the the switch in the back / work lamp, and use one of the strands for feed back to the indicator?

I'll do my puzzles tonight

Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite

10th Feb 2014 5:55pm

PaulMc

Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 501

couplands wrote:
Easiest would be to run a wire back from the work light, but there must be a more elegant way

The easiest way is often the best way.

I wired the rear work lamps on my 110 in this way.

I used Arrow-Hart changeover switches. I modified them with the rockers off of illuminated switches and a tell-tale with its own live and earth terminals.

As you said, it does require a wire to be run from the relay's output terminal, back to the dash to illuminate the dash switch's tell-tale.

This is my diagram -

Click image to enlarge

I used the existing permanent live (Purple wire) behind the O/S rear lamp cover, and mounted my relay behind the cover.

I mounted the rear switch on the N/S lamp cover, as it's easier to get at when opening the rear door.

.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

10th Feb 2014 6:00pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

What about this? The feed for the indicator lamp could be taken where the arrow shows...

10th Feb 2014 6:12pm

couplands

Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

VeeTee wrote:
That would indeed be the easiest solution, why not run a three stranded wire from the switch in the dash to the the switch in the back / work lamp, and use one of the strands for feed back to the indicator?

I'll do my puzzles tonight

I ran a 7 core wire to the rear, to power a couple of USB/12v sockets, and the 2way power + ground for the work lights. I also used another wire for the side light feed, so could release one of these.

I guess if I can monitor when power flows to the light from the front switch, that would work.

Cheers

Simon

10th Feb 2014 6:13pm

couplands

Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

PaulMc wrote:
couplands wrote:
Easiest would be to run a wire back from the work light, but there must be a more elegant way

The easiest way is often the best way.

I wired the rear work lamps on my 110 in this way.

I used Arrow-Hart changeover switches. I modified them with the rockers off of illuminated switches and a tell-tale with its own live and earth terminals.

As you said, it does require a wire to be run from the relay's output terminal, back to the dash to illuminate the dash switch's tell-tale.

This is my diagram -

Click image to enlarge

I used the existing permanent live (Purple wire) behind the O/S rear lamp cover, and mounted my relay behind the cover.

I mounted the rear switch on the N/S lamp cover, as it's easier to get at when opening the rear door.

.

Paul,

Similar to mine, but as my work light is LED it doesn't draw much current, so don't need the relay. I might just run a wire back from the lamp to the warning light.

Cheers

Simon

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

10th Feb 2014 6:17pm

PaulMc

Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 501

Simon,

My work lamps are 55W each, and were fitted long before LEDs were a viable option, so the relay is necessary.

But, in your case, you're right, you don't need a relay, just 3 x wires from front to rear.

The Carling switches shown earlier in this thread would work, as their tell-tales have their own live and earth terminals.

. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

10th Feb 2014 6:25pm

couplands

Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

VeeTee wrote:
What about this? The feed for the indicator lamp could be taken where the arrow shows...

Actually, if I wire the Carling switches like this, the internal lights may work as intended. More experiments needed..!

Cheers

Simon

10th Feb 2014 6:42pm

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