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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
TD5 wiper spindles
Right, Finally I have got around to replacing the spindle things for the wipers to hopefully remove some play.
Got the dash in bits (found a pen in drivers side dash air vent)
Removed the wiper arms and now I have the spindles and splinned ends showing.
The grub screw is stuck at the mo, so have given it it a coating of penertrating spray and time for a brew.

Once (if it comes off) the grub screw comes out does the splinned part come off with the mounting with the grub screw in? or is it two seperate parts ?

I have a feeling it will be two new splinned bits and grub screws. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #257718 10th Aug 2013 11:32am
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shazzy90



Member Since: 17 Dec 2010
Location: tyneside
Posts: 489

Not sure how you are doing your job but I had a real pain to replace mine the main spindle which the wipers are attached to is called a wheel box this is only removed from behind the dash,allow a good half day to carry out job ,and also replace the wiper washer jet while your on ,if you do the job correctly you should end up with a few screws,and bolts left over
Post #257757 10th Aug 2013 4:59pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Downed tools to order a wiper puller tool and new spindles. Whats the idea behind replacing the washer jets?
Dash back together now until parts arrive then back to it.
One grub screw came out from N/S Spindle the drivers side is seized. Sad 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #257759 10th Aug 2013 5:05pm
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pope10001



Member Since: 15 Oct 2011
Location: Dulverton
Posts: 489

United Kingdom 1992 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Zermatt Silver
excossack wrote:
Downed tools to order a wiper puller tool and new spindles. Whats the idea behind replacing the washer jets?


The idea is that you replace the washer because you have to take the dash out to do it and as you'll have the dash out to replace the wheel boxes, which are most likely the cause of your problems, the washers get brittle and eventually block as well so you might as well do it at the same time.

Part number AMR3025 about £5

Regards,

Mark
Post #257765 10th Aug 2013 5:30pm
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WarPig



Member Since: 04 Dec 2009
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 1748

England 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi USW Bonatti Grey
Re: TD5 wiper spindles
excossack wrote:


Once (if it comes off) the grub screw comes out does the splinned part come off with the mounting with the grub screw in? or is it two seperate parts ?


I'm guessing you know this already now that you have removed one of them? But the spindle that pokes through the dash is a one piece part. You then have a top hat shaped bit on the end that is held in place with a grub screw. The wiper arm then just clicks onto this with the help of a sprung loaded clip.

I rounded off one of my grub screws as it had seized and must have been an imperial allen key size whereas I was using a metric allen key! It's worth changing the top hats every few years as the splines can wear and the grub screw seizes up. The internal splines in the wiper arms eventually wear also, causing the wipers to slip about.
Post #257776 10th Aug 2013 6:03pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
If your old washer jet is good just leave it, but buy another jet and a t-piece connector, fit in drivers side left hand drive wiper position (behind rubber grommit and you will need a washer on the inside too) and hey presto 4 jets of water to clean your screen with instead of 2. Now that is worth the effort and £5 price tag IMHO... Thumbs Up

Also whilst you are there replacing the 2 wheel boxes it might be a good idea to change the cable that connects to the wheel boxes from the wiper motor as these are often as to blame for wonky wipers as the wheel boxes.

I plan to do mine shortly too.

Oh and if you are going to do the job you will need a 2nd person for 5-10 minutes to help you tighten the wheel boxes and washer jets in place... Can't be on the outside and inside at the same time... Wink
Post #257781 10th Aug 2013 6:42pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Re: TD5 wiper spindles
WarPig wrote:
excossack wrote:


Once (if it comes off) the grub screw comes out does the splinned part come off with the mounting with the grub screw in? or is it two seperate parts ?


I'm guessing you know this already now that you have removed one of them? But the spindle that pokes through the dash is a one piece part. You then have a top hat shaped bit on the end that is held in place with a grub screw. The wiper arm then just clicks onto this with the help of a sprung loaded clip.

I rounded off one of my grub screws as it had seized and must have been an imperial allen key size whereas I was using a metric allen key! It's worth changing the top hats every few years as the splines can wear and the grub screw seizes up. The internal splines in the wiper arms eventually wear also, causing the wipers to slip about.


Not removed them yet. Tried one and could'nt shift it so have ordered a wiper removal tool and pair of new spindles. The single grub screw that came out I had to use a Torx bit to get some grip. And yep the splines did look worn. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #257811 10th Aug 2013 9:04pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
geobloke wrote:
If your old washer jet is good just leave it, but buy another jet and a t-piece connector, fit in drivers side left hand drive wiper position (behind rubber grommit and you will need a washer on the inside too) and hey presto 4 jets of water to clean your screen with instead of 2. Now that is worth the effort and £5 price tag IMHO... Thumbs Up

Also whilst you are there replacing the 2 wheel boxes it might be a good idea to change the cable that connects to the wheel boxes from the wiper motor as these are often as to blame for wonky wipers as the wheel boxes.

I plan to do mine shortly too.

Oh and if you are going to do the job you will need a 2nd person for 5-10 minutes to help you tighten the wheel boxes and washer jets in place... Can't be on the outside and inside at the same time... Wink


I have ordered another washer jet as it sounds like a cunning plan to have another set of jets.

I've not got a spare cable for the wipers...So fingers crossed its all good..If not I have a good idea what I am doing now....he says hopefully.... 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #257814 10th Aug 2013 9:08pm
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WarPig



Member Since: 04 Dec 2009
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 1748

England 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi USW Bonatti Grey
Take some photos of every stage and post them up here, they would be useful im sure. Thumbs Up
Post #257828 10th Aug 2013 9:54pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Will do some when I commence round two. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #257830 10th Aug 2013 9:55pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Started removing the dash to remove and replace the wiper motor spindles. Started at 10:45 and still going.
Getting it all back together spindles mounted and nuts on the outer bulkhead tightened up. Wiper splined things back ok.
Having tightened up the nuts that hold the clamp in place on both sides I did a quick test and the cable that goes over the cogs just slides over the top and doesn't move the wiper blades. I thought I had fixed it by hitting the top middle clamp with a hammer to move it closer but no. So I think its time to take it all out and have a closer look.

Any hints or tips?

On the plus side I have added an additional washer jet so now have one each side of the windscreen and they work Smile 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #259613 18th Aug 2013 12:56pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
What a total pig of a job. Round 3 and it aint going any better. Got both boxes back in and bolted up. With the wiper arms attached and the bloomin thing slips. Arms off and its ok. Almost sorry I started the job now, should have left well alone! Also part of me is thinking maybe I should have used genuine LR parts. £ 24 each plus £7 for a new cable +vat from the dealers.
Time for another brew and food. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #259855 19th Aug 2013 11:57am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5846

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Decided to bite the bullet and order new spindles and spirral cable. So landy off the road till at least Wednesday Sad 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #259898 19th Aug 2013 3:19pm
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WarPig



Member Since: 04 Dec 2009
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 1748

England 1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi USW Bonatti Grey
I think for any parts like this that are hard to get to yet get lots of use, genuine is the way to go Thumbs Up
Post #259916 19th Aug 2013 4:59pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2647

Scotland 
The aftermarket wheel boxes are s**t.

Use genuine ones, and a genuine cable. Genuine splined adaptors, and genuine wiper arms. Fit it and then forget about it for another 20 years.
Post #259944 19th Aug 2013 6:50pm
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