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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2245

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
I did it years ago when this thread was started. Hasn't squeaked since ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ–’
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #767351 7th Apr 2019 8:04am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20453

United Kingdom 
Iโ€™ll have to have a look again shortly. Thank you. No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #767385 7th Apr 2019 10:56am
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newton-tony



Member Since: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Firenze Red
This is on my list of jobs and fingers crossed!
Bow down
Post #767461 7th Apr 2019 5:59pm
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Question. Tried to do this mod Today (whilst waiting for the paint to dry), but can i screw in the nipple on both sides?

Left is for my the easier side but couldโ€™t screw it in. At long last i succeded to take a Photo of the left side. Any ideas?



Click image to enlarge
 a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #771502 4th May 2019 12:25pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2301

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
You can or can't screw the nipple?

I am not sure what you mean when you say both sides? For me there was just one place where the nipple could/would go...


Click image to enlarge
 > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #771511 4th May 2019 2:20pm
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
In my perspective this is the right side. But i drive a lhd car and the right side of the clutch box is hard to reach so i would like to screw in the nipple on the left side of the clutch box a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #771513 4th May 2019 2:25pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2301

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Ah I understand, but unfortunately I can't offer any additional help on the problem. Mine screwed in very easily. Good luck! > 110 XS Double Cab

Last edited by hank on 4th May 2019 3:33pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #771514 4th May 2019 2:39pm
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PCM



Member Since: 25 Jan 2019
Location: North East
Posts: 874

United Kingdom 
Did this mod last week and for the first time in a long time have a squeak free clutch. Also fitted a power spring. Fiddly, but well worth it.
Thumbs Up
Post #771517 4th May 2019 3:03pm
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Not sorted yet. Does anyone have a spare Black clutch box of which they can take a Photo on both sides?

Or has anyone done this mod on a lhd car?? a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #771522 4th May 2019 3:50pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2301

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Post #771525 4th May 2019 4:13pm
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
The axle (part nr 272712), at least how i look at it, isnโ€™t symetrical. My assumption now that this axle can be switched but you need to get out this box.

Just a long shot Laughing has anyone done this?

Ps thnx hank a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #771528 4th May 2019 4:36pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20453

United Kingdom 
Hank - How did you manage to fit the angled grease nipple? On mind the thread was much smaller than that so only could fit the smaller grease nipple at 90 dregrees ofset from the side of the clutch box wall.

Did you enlarge the threads? Or were they present already.
If the latter much have different to mine. No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #771530 4th May 2019 4:44pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2301

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It didn't feel like a particularly positive thread engagement when I screwed the grease nipple in. Access is poor so I could not inspect but it it felt like more of an interference fit rather than the hole being threaded

I used one of these, m6x1 90 degree https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121996885345

TDi4 - I agree from your picture it looks like the pivot axle is the 'wrong way round' on your LHD. Looks like you have access to the larger locking pin end rather than the smaller end. Like you say you would need to remove and refit in the opposite direction


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #771541 4th May 2019 6:08pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 625

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
Earlier pre td5 defenders donโ€™t have a predrilled hole in the pivot pin.

I have always found that squeaking is more likely to come from the top pivot which is unbushed wheras the pedal pivot has bronze bushes, but adding the grease nipple is no bad thing.
Post #771584 5th May 2019 5:40am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2036

United Kingdom 
Regarding the grease nipple being a metric 6mm.
I was reading another topic on this subject https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic45191...p;start=30

Blackwolf highlighted the following, which strongly indicates itโ€™s actually a 1/4" UNF grease nipple.

blackwolf wrote:
nosnibod wrote:
I've tried everything everyone here has suggested. None of it worked.

However what did work was greasing the main pedal pivot - and no it doesn't mean taking everything apart.

If you feel down the inside of the pedal box - from inside the engine bay, you will feel the end of the shaft that the pedal rotates on. It's hollow, and seems to have grease ports inside it out to the bearing surface.

The end of that shaft is in fact threaded for a grease nipple but LR - in their wisdom - just bung some sealant in there instead.

If you prise the sealant out, put a grease nipple in, you can inject grease into the pedal pivot.

It's been covered on here before:-

http://www.defender2.net/forum/post469048.html

And here for more photos:-

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showth...utch-pedal


In the linked thread there is a long discussion about the size of the nipple (ie the thread in the end of the shaft), the general consensus being (a) that it is 6mm, and (b) that it is the same as the thread in the grease nipple holes in the propshafts. Clearly these two conclusions are mutually exclusive since the thread in the propshaft holes is 1/4" UNF and not 6mm. it is likely that you can force a 6mm nipple into a 1/4" UNF hole since a 6mm coarse thread has a 1mm pitch (conveniently therefore 25.4 tpi) and 1/4 UNF is 28tpi.

I've done some digging into the origins of the shaft, and the Puma clutch pedal pivot shaft, p/n 272712 actually first appeared with introduction pendant-mounted pedals on the SII in 1958/9 and has been the same part (and the same part number) ever since. In Series days, the hole in the end of the shaft was plugged with a hex head setscrew, p/n 255202, which has had various descriptions in the parts books over the years, the most descriptive being "Oil plug for pedal shaft". As far as I can determine, 255202 is a 1/4" UNF x 3/8" long hex setscrew. I suspect that it is only in recent times that the dreaded bean counters insisted that the screw was replaced with a blob of sealant.

I do find it amusing that long after the owner's manual stopped telling the owner to remove the retaining screw, fit a nipple, inject oil, remove the nipple, and replace the retaining screw, JLR was STILL buying shafts which were fully machined to support proper lubrication! There are at least three machining operations needed on the shaft which are completely redundant, although handy for those of use with squeaky pedals.
Post #1027661 11th Mar 2024 6:30pm
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