 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Drawer - storage in my 90 |
 
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826   
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Hi,
Like many people, I struggle to carry everything I need (or think I need..!) in the back of my 90. I trawled the web looking for ideas on how to arrange the back of the truck. This thread on the Expedition Portal is one of many that has some great ideas:- http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/thre...age-system My requirements are:- 1. To carry my recovery gear (strops, shackles, rope, spades) in a way that can be accessed easily. 2. To carry two waffle boards, inside the truck. 3. To carry and be able to use a stove, plus additional space for pans, kettle, plates, mugs etc 4. To carry my Hi Lift jack inside the truck 5. To provide space for tent, sleeping rolls, bags etc I wanted/need to make it from wood as I don't have the capability to make from metal. I also wanted it to be light, but as we'll see later, I still have a challenge on that front. I decided that multiple drawers would suit my needs. It also meant that I could use lower rated (and therefore cheaper) extension rails, as the loads in any one drawer would be lower. The downside is that it will take longer to make, and add to the weight. My starting point was to get to grips with using Google SketchUp to help visualise the space and create a build guide/sheet layout drawings for my drawers. Here's my working drawing for the drawers:- [URL=]  Click image to enlarge[/URL] I also created a layout sheet, so I had an idea of how much plywood to buy and how to best cut it to maximise the usage of the ply sheets. There is an add-on for SketchUp to do automatic layout, but it was taking me too long to work out how to use it, so just did the layout manually. Here's the layout drawing. [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] I decided to use Birch Ply for the construction. It is a much finer wood to work with than construction quality ply, and I believe it has better resistance to water/damp. I chose 12mm sheets, as I hoped it would help keep the weight down. Most of the builds I saw use 18mm ply, which seems very heavy. I also bought the rails, 750mm full extension rails, they were rated at 60kg from the supplier I got them from, but have since seen other suppliers rate them at 45kg. Either way, I think it will be enough. Greater than this length and/or weight starts to get very expensive. As my drawers were intended to be 1mtr long and I wanted them to full extend, I realised that if I remove the rear stops on the rails, they will go back as far as forwards. So, I can achieve a full 1mtr extension, just using a 750mm rail... 
I started work by cutting the sheets according to my plans (which I taped to my cupboards in the garage for easy access):- Click image to enlarge ...and ended up with an awful lot of parts...! Click image to enlarge I cut using a circular saw and a clamped straight edge. I later moved to use a jig saw and finished the edges with my router, which gave a much nicer (and squarer) finish. Click image to enlarge After cutting the sheets, I did a quick check for clearances in the back of the 90. I had already remembered to allow for approx. 100mm on the right hand side to avoid hitting the rear door stay with the drawers. I hadn't allowed for the width of the door catch on the left side, luckily the drawers will just miss it. Click image to enlarge The length looked fine as it missed the door stay cover when the door was closed, but later in the build (after I had assembled the drawers...  ) I realised that the cover for the rear wiper would be too close, so I had to shorten all (7) drawers...not good.
I wanted the drawers to be as strong as possible, within the limits of my woodworking skills and after much research decided that pocket screws would give good strength and be easy to use. I bought a Kreg jig http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hol...=kreg+k4ms and it worked well. I progressed further and assembled the outer frame and test fitted the first two drawers that would hold the waffle boards:- Click image to enlarge In the drawing you will see that the next stage was to fit another horizontal sheet on top of the first set of drawers. I decided this was not needed and changed the design slightly at this stage. You may be able to see in some of the photos that I added some spacer pieces instead. Click image to enlarge I built up the drawers using the pocket screw method and also attached the rails to the frame and the drawers. I used T nuts for this, with M5 counter sunk socket screws. I think this should be strong enough. At this stage, all 7 drawers are built:- Click image to enlarge I also put the top of the frame on, I left it till last so I could get easier access to the rails for fitting etc. I am trial fitting the drawer set to the 90 and am pleased with progress so far.:- Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge This is about as far as I have got. Next stage is to fit the drawer fronts and the latches. These are the latches I plan to use:- Click image to enlarge They are approx. 50mm across and therefore will fit the lower drawers with the waffle boards while being strong enough for the larger drawers. I'll update with more pics as I go. If you have any questions, please shout. Re: the weight. The whole thing is f'ing heavy (haven't weighed it, but lifting the frame without the drawers take two of us). So, I'm considering removing sections of the frame by making large holes. I'm just not sure if I'll compromise strength too much...! cheers simon Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Last edited by couplands on 23rd Apr 2015 7:36pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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16th Aug 2013 11:47am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Blimey, that's substantial
 Looks very nicely made, though.
Personally, I find 9mm ply perfectly adequate for this sort of thing but, given how far you've got, I appreciate that isn't very helpful. So, a few weight saving ideas instead: Remove the floor, or at least cut significant holes out from it. It isn't adding anything to the strength lying on the load bed floor. Do away with the draws for the waffle boards. Make up some bags from ripstop nylon to keep the dirt contained and just slide them in. Cut significant holes in the internal dividing panels. A 30mm border to the joints with other panels and draw fixings will be more than adequate - ply is very strong. A hole saw would be good for this, as you could effectivly produce a simple version of a lattice beam. Consider replacing the bases of the drawers with 9mm ply. I'm not sure how practical this is - it depends on how you've assembled them. Consider replacing the back panel (front panel? the part nearest the cab anyway) with thinner material. All of the load is being taken by the side panels so 12mm in that location really is overkill. Also, not sure if you've got a bulkhead or not but, if so, then cut some holes in the back panel as it's not serving any purpose to contain anything. Beyond that, have you considered how you'll access the space above the wheel arches? It looks a bit tight to get in there. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia Last edited by LandRoverAnorak on 16th Aug 2013 12:39pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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16th Aug 2013 12:32pm |
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| SiWhite Member Since: 19 Jan 2010 Location: North Hampshire Posts: 455 
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How do you rate the Kreg pocket hole jig? I've been thinking of buying one for some time... My blog - www.anacreinhampshire.blogspot.co.uk
110 TD5 BuildHERE - sold! 110 Tdci Build HERE - sold! Passat Alltrack - 4x4, auto, 45mpg, gloriously comfortable - but not a Defender! |
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16th Aug 2013 3:18pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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Hi Simon, looks good, but indeed very substantial!
You've seen my storage, it is also made from 12 mm ply (sidewalls and top). With hindsight, I would make MK2 from 8 mm for the top, and no sidewalls but a frame constructed from alloy rectangular tubes. I left out te bottom, and the drawer bottom itself is made from 5 mm ply. To save some weight I woud lose the bottom, or replace it with some sections fore, mid, and aft. I also would keep the waffle boards in sacks, saves 2 drawers and 4 drawer rails. But hey, good work  Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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16th Aug 2013 3:35pm |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826
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Im pleased with the jig. It works well. I also bought the Kreg screws as they are made to fit the profile of the flat bottomed drill. Cheers Simon |
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16th Aug 2013 4:30pm |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826
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Thanks Vincent, once completed I'll cut away most of the bottom and make some holes in the other panels. I like the idea of bags for the waffle boards, so will look at making some. Hope all is well. cheers simon |
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16th Aug 2013 9:52pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512
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I liked the greenlaning with you so much, me and Mrs VeeTee are now coming over in October to explore Wales! 
Cheers Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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17th Aug 2013 1:00pm |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826
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Let us know when you're coming and we can try and meet up..
Cheers Simon |
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17th Aug 2013 10:04pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512
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You've got a PM Simon! Cheers! Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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17th Aug 2013 10:31pm |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826
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It's been sometime since I finished my drawers, so thought I'd start to update the pictures.
I removed as much weight as I could by cutting holes in the floor, sides and back(or should that be front) of the frame. I also added the handles/catches and made a frame to hold the cool box. I added a switch panel to control the external work light, interior LED strip lights and the USB/12v power (for the cool box). Here a few of the photos... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Cheers Simon Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Last edited by couplands on 23rd Apr 2015 7:42pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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12th May 2014 4:19pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512
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Looking good, Simon!
Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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12th May 2014 4:38pm |
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| Defender-Stu Member Since: 14 Jun 2012 Location: South West England Posts: 1320
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Wish I had thoses skills mate as that is amazing in my eyes fair play and well done...........
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12th May 2014 8:13pm |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826
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^^^^ many thanks! It took me ages to build them, but was good fun.
Here are a few more pictures of the finished article... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge ...and getting a bit tippy in Chainsaw Alley...! Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Last edited by couplands on 23rd Apr 2015 7:46pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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15th May 2014 10:13am |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826
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Right, I'm looking to build V2 of these drawers.
I want to have enough space for the recovery gear, but reduce the amount of tools (I currently have a full socket set, full screwdriver/nut-driver set & lots of other stuff) I carry. I'll remove the cooking kit (pans/kettle) to plastic storage boxes as I dont need to carry these all the time. I still want to have some space for the waffle boards, and will relocate the stove to the rear door. I hope to sell the current drawer set to fund V2. If anyone is interested, let me know..
Will update this thread with the new design soon. cheers simon |
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6th Aug 2014 7:31pm |
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