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Cracka



Member Since: 08 Dec 2012
Location: New South Wales, Australia
Posts: 129

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Loose nuts
Okay so I have a couple of loose nuts Shocked you know those rivnuts, nutserts whatever the correct term...........

I removed the headlining (pain in the a__e) to do some soundproofing today. The loose nuts are 2 of the 3 behind the screws which hold the interior mirror to the roof. I did get the screws out, luckily they weren't too tight and I could hold the edge of the rivnut with the tip of a small screwdriver to stop it spinning.

My question is, how can I fix these so that they are tight for when I re-install the mirror.

Mick
Post #255578 2nd Aug 2013 9:51am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
Using a rivnut tool (you can make these at home) you will be able to tighten the rivnut.

I've had to do several of these when fitting FCX trimmed cubby boxes as LR don't seem to tighten them sufficently
Post #255581 2nd Aug 2013 10:02am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Cracka,

A rivnut tool is quite a handy addition to any Defender owner's toolbox even if it is used infrequently.

Here's an alternative solution as mentioned by Matt above.... Thumbs Up

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic8631.html?highlight=rivnut If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #255582 2nd Aug 2013 10:15am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
Thanks Mal, I hoped you'd be able to find that thread Mr. Green

I can highly recommend the Memfast tool as well (Hopefully Mal will find a link to that too Rolling Eyes )
Post #255584 2nd Aug 2013 10:17am
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Cracka



Member Since: 08 Dec 2012
Location: New South Wales, Australia
Posts: 129

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Thanks Matt, I will google making the rivnut tool but do you have any suggestions where I might find a 'plan' so to speak.

I was actually going to post on your 130 thread but seeing as though your'e here, I'll ask. Before I started putting my Roadkill Stinger (same as Dynamat) on the roof I quickly went through your thread but couldn't see what I wanted to know, did you dynamat the roof and then use the acoustic foam.

I am also using a foam product over the Roadkill, called Formshield, it is 10mm thick closed cell foam with a foil backing. I wasn't really sure whether to do both or not, so I have erred on the side of caution and started the Roadkill. I have filled the 2 flat areas either side of the centre that runs from the front of the car to the back.

I'm going to use this on the other areas I have used the Roadkill to stop the heat transfer.

I must say with the Roadkill on it makes the panels more 'solid' not tinny when you knock on them.

Mick
Post #255585 2nd Aug 2013 10:18am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Thumbs Up

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic21488.html?highlight=memfast If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #255587 2nd Aug 2013 10:21am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
Hi Mick,

K9F's link above shows you a post on how to build a rivnut tool.

I only put the foam on the roof of the 130 (for no particular reason) and it appears to work well.

I think your Dynamat style product on it's own will be just as effective and probably wouldn't require the foam as well.
Post #255590 2nd Aug 2013 10:28am
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Cracka



Member Since: 08 Dec 2012
Location: New South Wales, Australia
Posts: 129

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Thanks Mal, you obviously put that up while I was typing my reply to Matt. I will have a crack at that.

Another question I have, Matt you may be able to answer with your headliner trimming experience, but anybody else, please jump in. The headliner, apart from being a bitch to get out, seems to droop a little (the back part in my 90) between the rear door where its sits and the fixing points where it meets the front part. You can push it up to the roof where there is a sag.

When I had it off I was looking at the back and noticed that there was a factory hole in the middle of the headliner about 615mm from the front line of xmas tree holes, it just hasn't been punched through the vinyl and not used.

There is a hole in that centre rib on the roof, a quick measure showed it would line up with this unused hole in the headliner and would support the centre of it, it just looks to be a smaller diameter though, thats an easy fix with a drill and a block of wood to stop the drill bit going through the roof Whistle

Is there a xmas tree in this position on other 90's you have seen.

I think it would be viable to use it, what do you think.

Mick
Post #255592 2nd Aug 2013 10:32am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
Hi Mick,

I've seen some with that clip and some without - I guess it depends what day of the week your vehicle was built Rolling Eyes
Post #255595 2nd Aug 2013 10:36am
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Cracka



Member Since: 08 Dec 2012
Location: New South Wales, Australia
Posts: 129

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Go Beyond wrote:
Hi Mick,

I've seen some with that clip and some without - I guess it depends what day of the week your vehicle was built Rolling Eyes


Ah ok, I might put one in when I replace then. I've got plenty of xmas trees, I bought 20.

I might use the foam as well, seeing as though I already have bought it.

Do you think its worthwhile doing the Roadkill on the curved portion of the roof or just leave it at the flat parts of the roof as I have done so far.

Mick
Post #255597 2nd Aug 2013 10:41am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
Dynamat suggest that you don't need 100% coverage for their product to work.

Personally if I had enough and the headlining was already down, I'd cover the curve.
Post #255599 2nd Aug 2013 10:47am
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Cracka



Member Since: 08 Dec 2012
Location: New South Wales, Australia
Posts: 129

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Ok, I might just do the curve in the front compartment above the doors then, as the alpine lights make up a fair part of the back edges, especially as I'm going to use the formshield which I'll cover the whole area with.

Thanks for your help guys, its appreciated.

Mick
Post #255601 2nd Aug 2013 10:55am
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