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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5038

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
MK wrote:
mse wrote:
Am i missing something Grease for life should be in the swivels and therefore they shouldnt need to be drained and thus only checked through the top plug (there should be a rear drain one)

As for the diff oil...i wonder


THey are supposed to be greased/sealed for "life". I was just mentioning the above in case of water contamination. The only plug is to fill in with one shot grease (#STC3435) which is about 350 cc.


if there is water in there you want to strip it down anyway Mike
Post #18572 18th Nov 2009 8:31pm
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
So are we supposed to use the Castrol Full Synthetic Oil in the two diffs as opposed to the EP 80W 90 from the manual?
My Castrol agent down the road said the synthetic is better but would that be overkill? Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #18592 19th Nov 2009 10:45am
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
No overkill.... Wink Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

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Post #18593 19th Nov 2009 10:57am
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
Thanks Dgardle
one more question. In RSA Castrol only have the BOT 130M which is a GL4 (75W80)
- will this still be OK?

For interest I called LR parts who would not give the specification but told me I could only get the oil from them at a cost of ZAR 369 per liter as opposed to Castrol who charge it at ZAR 79 per liter. Shocked Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #18623 19th Nov 2009 2:24pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2432

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
You have to use GL-4 in the gearbox. Sulphur and other stuff would kill any yellow metal (bronze and other alloys). Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #18625 19th Nov 2009 3:30pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
CapeLandy wrote:
Thanks Dgardle
one more question. In RSA Castrol only have the BOT 130M which is a GL4 (75W80)
- will this still be OK?

For interest I called LR parts who would not give the specification but told me I could only get the oil from them at a cost of ZAR 369 per liter as opposed to Castrol who charge it at ZAR 79 per liter. Shocked


BOT130M it's ok, is the predecessor of 328 (in Italy at least....) Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

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Post #18639 19th Nov 2009 7:42pm
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
Still Confused
I still am confused somewhat

On further investigation:

The TexacoEP-C 80W-90 (listed as diff oil in user manual) has very similar specs to the Castrol EPX 80W-90 API GL-5 as below:

Texaco
Density at 15'C 898kg/m^3
Viscosity 100'C 14.5
Viscosity 40'C 131
Brookfield Viscosity @-26'C 130,000
Pour Point -33

Castrol EPX
886
14.2
140.3
130,000
-30

BOT130M
873
15.1
76
3400
-54

Seems EPX has closer readings so won't be detrimental?

Anyways, I dropped the oil in both diffs. Front was very black with slight water emulsion and seemed a little greasy. Must check swivel housing levels tomorrow. Rear diff little brown but not nearly as bad as front.
I refilled with the EPX as above until someone advises me I made big mistake or not.

Cheers 4 now Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #18689 20th Nov 2009 8:48pm
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dm_td5



Member Since: 20 Jul 2008
Location: Arnhem Land
Posts: 609

Australia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Zermatt Silver
Castrol EPX 80W-90 is what we use in Australia. You could also use Castrol Syntrax (as in the Transfer case). It's a full synthetic and handles higher temperatures better. Over here its also twice the price of EPX, so I just use it in the Transfer case. 110 2.4TDCi
110 300Tdi

LROCV ::: AULRO.com
Post #18691 20th Nov 2009 9:08pm
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
Thanks Derek, feel little more confident now.
Will replace with Syntrax at next big trip into hot dusty Africa.
(June 2010 when all the football hooligans arrive Wink ) Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #18692 20th Nov 2009 9:26pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2432

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Re: Still Confused
CapeLandy wrote:
I still am confused somewhat

On further investigation:

The TexacoEP-C 80W-90 (listed as diff oil in user manual) has very similar specs to the Castrol EPX 80W-90 API GL-5 as below:

Texaco
Density at 15'C 898kg/m^3
Viscosity 100'C 14.5
Viscosity 40'C 131
Brookfield Viscosity @-26'C 130,000
Pour Point -33

Castrol EPX
886
14.2
140.3
130,000
-30

BOT130M
873
15.1
76
3400
-54

Seems EPX has closer readings so won't be detrimental?

Anyways, I dropped the oil in both diffs. Front was very black with slight water emulsion and seemed a little greasy. Must check swivel housing levels tomorrow. Rear diff little brown but not nearly as bad as front.
I refilled with the EPX as above until someone advises me I made big mistake or not.
Cheers 4 now


Capelandy:

I think you can not check the swivels. They filled with 370 gm of grease.

MK Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #18699 21st Nov 2009 12:45am
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
I wanted to stick my finger down the filler hole and check the level.
If EP0 is fairly runny then it should leave a level of sorts that you could feel with a thin pinkie finger - or not? Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #18701 21st Nov 2009 5:33am
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dm_td5



Member Since: 20 Jul 2008
Location: Arnhem Land
Posts: 609

Australia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Zermatt Silver
I can just see the headline: Cape Town man traps digit in Land Rover Laughing

What about using a small, clean screw driver. As long as it can't fall entirely through the hole it might be better. 110 2.4TDCi
110 300Tdi

LROCV ::: AULRO.com
Post #18702 21st Nov 2009 7:05am
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
CapeLandy wrote:
I wanted to stick my finger down the filler hole and check the level.
If EP0 is fairly runny then it should leave a level of sorts that you could feel with a thin pinkie finger - or not?


no way to check with finger



Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

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Post #18709 21st Nov 2009 11:29am
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CapeLandy



Member Since: 21 Jul 2008
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 558

South Africa 
Another thing to note, when I removed both filler plugs on the front and rear diffs and buffed the threads in the wire buff to remove the old thread sealant, I noticed both threads were stripped/ damaged. Evil or Very Mad
Seems the filler socket/insert is welded into the diff housing which causes the thread to shrink. Normally one needs to run a tap through again after welding in such a thin socket. They must have then forced in the filler plug in the factory, damaging the threads. The drains were ok however.
Anyways, ran a thread file over them a little but not much to salvage.
I fitted a light layer of hydraulic thread sealer on the threads before refitting.
Amazing that this can be happening in the factory. I assume Puma 110 - gone
Series III 1973 - going strong
Post #18715 21st Nov 2009 2:21pm
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Grockle



Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
CapeLandy wrote:
Another thing to note, when I removed both filler plugs on the front and rear diffs and buffed the threads in the wire buff to remove the old thread sealant, I noticed both threads were stripped/ damaged. Evil or Very Mad
Seems the filler socket/insert is welded into the diff housing which causes the thread to shrink. Normally one needs to run a tap through again after welding in such a thin socket. They must have then forced in the filler plug in the factory, damaging the threads. The drains were ok however.
Anyways, ran a thread file over them a little but not much to salvage.
I fitted a light layer of hydraulic thread sealer on the threads before refitting.
Amazing that this can be happening in the factory. I assume


doesn't bear thinking about the bodged stuff you don't find whilst doing maitenance Crying or Very sad 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
Post #18716 21st Nov 2009 2:45pm
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