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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5865

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Replacement brake pipes
On the MOT the tester advised on corrosion to brake pipes at the front and the rear.
Maybe time to replace the pipes, so what type of pipe is suggested?
I have seen Copper, Nickel or can you get stainless pipe?

At the same time I will replace the flexis with stainless/braided ones which I got a while ago.

If doing myself, I would have to invest in the tools to cut/flare the brake pipes. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #210828 12th Feb 2013 9:32pm
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bm52



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
On my 300 I replaced the pipes using a kit from Automec. All cut to size and all connectors attached. Was much easier thank I thought it would be.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID010541 BM52
Post #210830 12th Feb 2013 9:36pm
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Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Order the pipes from your main dealer they will come already shaped for an easy fit. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve
Post #210835 12th Feb 2013 9:48pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5865

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
That's a good thought, I might just give them a buzz. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #210837 12th Feb 2013 9:54pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Or you can put copper brake lines on....they'll last much longer

Some on ebay, and Rimmer do a full ready-made kit here
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID010541

 Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #210840 12th Feb 2013 10:02pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8099

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
i would make my own using a flare kit.

or run braided flex from the calipers to a bulkhead join or even straight to the mc. depends what your using the vehicle for. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #210867 13th Feb 2013 6:54am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5865

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Ordered from Automec today. Full hit, both pipes on rear axle, pipes for the front and the one that runs down the chassis rail (front/back) 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #239472 29th May 2013 12:30pm
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bm52



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
can I suggest you soak the flex pipe joints from the chassis to the T connection on the rear axle with loads of WD40 or similar. Mine was a right sod to remove and undo Twisted Evil , gave up in the end and bought a new flex pipe and T connector. BM52
Post #239490 29th May 2013 3:33pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5865

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I've got new flexis to go on, braided ones Smile but a good soaking will be in order with Plusgas etc. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #239491 29th May 2013 3:39pm
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bm52



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
Just to be clear i was referring to the chassis to T connection and not the one to the calipers.

A grinder became my friend on this job BM52
Post #239492 29th May 2013 3:44pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5865

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I hope I dont have to break out the grinder! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #239500 29th May 2013 4:51pm
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