DEFENDER2.NET - View topic

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > RDX Lights

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

Mr Baldylocks

Member Since: 15 Jul 2010
Location: Nearer my home than yours.
Posts: 487

RDX Lights

Evening Guys and Girls
Well I've just fitted the first part of my lights and I'm bloomin frozen. Looks really good though and great value for money, I'll finish the indicators tomorrow and fit the side power vent. Now time to break open the Thatchers and start the chicken casserole.

Any advice on sound deadening and insulation? Is there anyway to warm the cabin up quicker in the Old Girl? I'm in and out of 2.2s all day long and they definitely warm up quicker.

Cheers Guys

Life is one big adventure, that's why we have the vehicle for the journey.

2nd Mar 2013 8:44pm

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

Re: RDX Lights

Mr Baldylocks wrote:
Any advice on sound deadening and insulation?

There are alternatives, but a search for 'Dynamat' will tell you all you need to know. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

2nd Mar 2013 8:53pm

bob neville

Member Since: 30 Apr 2009
Location: Marbella
Posts: 3248

Dynamat for insulation and soundproofing

Group buy here http://defender2.net/forum/topic17772.html

Simple check to make on the heater that can make a lot of difference.

Set the hot/cold lever to full heat.
Open the bonnet and check the arm on the heater box that the cable is attached to. It should be FULLY over to the right when looking from the front. See if you can move the lever any further to the right by hand. If you can then adjust the cable so the lever is fully over.

You may only get a few extra mm's of adjustment but it really makes a difference. I had to wait ages for the TD5's heater to give warmth into the cabin. I did this check and had about another 3mm of travel on the lever.
Adjusted the cable and now the heater blows warm in about 5 minutes and hot in about 10.

If you have the dash top off also make sure all the hoses are connected fully, they have a habit of working lose over the years.

Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !!
2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold
2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold
2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member
2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days !

3rd Mar 2013 9:42am

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1423

Dynamat all the way

Easy to apply and waterproof. Think SGH has a group buy somewhere on the Forum. Open cell such as noisekiller also works, but will attract and hold water- thus rendering it useless. My 90 HT used about £450( 120 sq/ft iirc) did it all bar the roof and worth every penny.

There are some cheaper alternatives, such as silentcoat, rattle trap etc which I have not used, but are based on the same principle. Dynamat has been around for years and I cannot fault it, hence the reason to pay a little more and gain peace of mind.

3rd Mar 2013 11:53am

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

Dynamat is not an insulation though so your best to dynamat and then stick closed cell foam over the top.

3rd Mar 2013 12:46pm

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1423

mk1collector wrote:
Dynamat is not an insulation though so your best to dynamat and then stick closed cell foam over the top.

Agreed, but as a added bonus it dose aid retaining the warmth. One of the benefits of the aluminium face. Mine is noticeably warmer

I put closed cell on the sides, any where above the floor is good but having read others experiences, decided against anywhere that would get wet !!

3rd Mar 2013 3:05pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

It doesn't matter if closed cell foam gets wet as it doesn't retain water.

3rd Mar 2013 4:37pm

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1423

sorry I meant open cell

3rd Mar 2013 6:42pm

Mr Baldylocks

Member Since: 15 Jul 2010
Location: Nearer my home than yours.
Posts: 487

Brilliant, thanks for your help guys, I'm off tomorrow Bob so I'll try your method on the cable. I thought that Dynamat was the way to go so a bit on saving to do then that could be the next job. Where's the best place to get seat risers from?
Cheers Life is one big adventure, that's why we have the vehicle for the journey.

3rd Mar 2013 7:28pm

bob neville

Member Since: 30 Apr 2009
Location: Marbella
Posts: 3248

Probably Mud Rails direct from Mud unless Leeds (Brandan) does them, drop him a PM.

The Exmoor ones are expensive and a pain in the proverbial

Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !!
2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold
2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold
2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member
2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days !

3rd Mar 2013 8:19pm

leeds

Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8581

Yes we have the Mud seat rails in stock

Brendan

3rd Mar 2013 8:24pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum