 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > 2" Lift Advice for My 110 Puma |
 
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582  
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Spacer kit??
2" lift you may or maynot needed extended brake hoses, just check them. 2" lift you should not need extra wide UJ s or any fancy prop shafts. If you were talking 3-4"+ yes extended brake hoses, wide angle UJ etc would be required. Brendan |
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22nd Aug 2012 5:29am |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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i had a 2" drop on my puma and suffered from transmission vibrations at certain speeds, put back to standard and the vibrations stopped.
not sure what "spacers" are ?, but double cardon props would fix the vibration issue and put less stress on the drivetrain. |
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22nd Aug 2012 6:11am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8092  
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Specific to puma there can be issues with a 2" lift that you dont see with other LRs due to the engine/axle alignment on the front i believe. others on here will no doubt post more.
springs normally give the change in ride height. you only really need WA props for increase in droop with increased articulation. you will prob get away with std brake pipes assuming flex is pretty much as std. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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22nd Aug 2012 6:30am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6103 
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There is/was a kit from LR (part # IVP000010 still showing up on the current microcat) for 4 cylinder 90's fitted with HD suspension, which was a triangle spacer that fitted behind the trailling arm bracket on the chassis, so it shortened the rear arms by how ever thick the spacers were, and this would alter the angle of the nose of the diff, thus helping the propshaft UJ problems.
 Click image to enlarge |
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22nd Aug 2012 6:47am |
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| JSG Member Since: 12 Jul 2007 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2412 
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Did you change springs and shocks? You will alter the alignment with a 2" lift and may get problems with caster correction and double cardon props - I had a lift on my TR90 when I bought it and it felt so much better when I went back to standard HD set up. John
http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk 2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS |
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22nd Aug 2012 9:00am |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2645  
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Steve, just drive around for a while and be on the lookout for any vibrations. If you don't feel any, you're fine. I did a 2" lift in Feb and initially there was some vibration at around 60-80kmh, sounds a bit like a muffled coffee grinding machine. Then the clutch was replaced and all noise/vibration went away  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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22nd Aug 2012 10:50am |
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| quentin Member Since: 23 Jul 2012 Location: on tour Posts: 119  
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Not recommended to lift a Puma even 2" you are asking for trouble. & not because of steering geometry.
The problem with the Puma is because of the taller Ford engine which is mounted higher so that the Sump clears the Diff. (Which is why there is a hump in the bonnet) The problem with raising the engine (and not the gearbox mounts) is that the Transfer case now points uphill. So a Standard height Puma has its UJ's & front output bearings working to their limits, Lifting the suspension takes them beyond their limits. Wide angle UJ's dont fix the problem, You will need a Double Cardin front propshaft. Now if you raise the suspension there is now enough clearance to drop the engine, which in my opinion is the right way to fix things, bring the TC back to level. You will find that even standard Puma TC output bearings & front props dont last as long as earlier models. Apart from the tosser effect why would you want to lift a Defender anyway, It stuffs up their excellent articulation and increases their Center of Gravity. You have to throw a whole heap more money at it to get the suspension working right once you start to modify it. |
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22nd Aug 2012 11:38am |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2645
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Err, I have better articulation with the OME springs + Bilstein shocks combination. I had to lift because the rear was sagging when overlanding (weight of tent, fridge, etc) -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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22nd Aug 2012 11:40am |
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| quentin Member Since: 23 Jul 2012 Location: on tour Posts: 119
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Apologies for going OT , not really 'cos if I can help the OP out with his ideas When I bought my current Defender 110 it had Bilsteins all round , 130 springs front & 130 Helpers rear, Same reason as the Prev Owner was towing a camper around & its got Bullbar / winch ect up front. I put it on the Ramp to compare the articulation with my Toyotas & was upset with the result. I expected the Defender to dominate The Defender has no sway bars Click image to enlarge just for fun I put my old '79 BJ40 up the ramp (am I allowed to show Toyotas here ??) Result as expected Click image to enlarge And heres the 2006 105 series Landcruiser, clearly 2" further up the Ramp than the Defender & the Toyota was bog factory standard suspension complete with sway bars front & rear. Click image to enlarge I was horrified with this result. I knew from the past experience with my 90 that lighter springs would help so I replaced the 130 springs with original 110 springs front & rear & installed some Polyair springs inside the rear coils to help with the loads as I do a lot of outback expeditions. Heres the result Click image to enlarge and overall comparison Click image to enlarge In summing up the Defender 110 Standard suspension is basically best left alone. (but I did have to change the winch cable from steel to dyneema & change the heavy roller fairlead to an Alloy Hawse (saved 30kg) & removed my steel bashplate (saved another 15kg) to take the stress off the now standard front springs. Different strokes for different folks, but just putting it out there for consideration, The thing I love most about the Defender is its great articulation and I dont want to compromise that for anything, once you do a lift you have to start stuffing around with dislocation cones or longer shockers, repositioning mounts / dc shafts caster correction , never ending saga, and for what - basically a higher Center of Gravity = Less capable 4x4 IMO but perhaps better looking at school pickup time |
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22nd Aug 2012 12:32pm |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015  
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I agree with quentin on this. I am looking at upgrading all the suspension on my truck and lift was something to consider but everything points to hassle with the Puma and lift. Even Gwyn Lewis advises against a lift. If you want more articulation go for longer shocks but keep the same ride height.
Now I am running Bull-bar, winch protection on the front the standard 110 springs will need changing as they have dropped 1". Hopefully I will come into loads of money and get a air suspension kit from the air bag man in Aus 
Glyn   |
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22nd Aug 2012 12:42pm |
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| Steve.N Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Co-Meath Posts: 4  
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Thanks guys for the replies.
I should have checked with the forum before forking money out on springs and the local mechanic to fit them!! I raised it due to the truck being quite often used through peat bogs to retrieve lost parachutes from the skydiving club. I recently added a new winch bumper, cage, ladder and chequer plate; with all the extra weight I thought giving her a lift and stiffening things up may be the way to go. The LR mechanic told me about the position of the engine but suggested some spacer kit that he saw once. They just had a Puma in last week getting raised by 4" and was explaining the amount of work that had to be done to make things work. So, I'll trundle back to the local mechanic and get him to fit my original springs - The wife will just love this (I'll never hear the end of it!! - Happy days). Cheers Steve |
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22nd Aug 2012 2:06pm |
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| quentin Member Since: 23 Jul 2012 Location: on tour Posts: 119
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I highly reccomend it, cant believe its not a common mod in the UK, surely an opening for some of Defender2 sponsors here, Polyair or Firestone coil rite springs are the go, very economical and easy DIY fit, I've yet to have any fail in any vehicle Ive fitted them to. Let them down to 5psi for original suspension and add air as you weigh down the rear, typically with a laden caravan and cargo area I pump then to 15psi . just dont go with the reccomended upper retainer for the polyair its very badly designed, i'll post some pics on how it works in a new thread. here http://www.defender2.net/forum/post163721.html#163721 |
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22nd Aug 2012 2:21pm |
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| BigWheels Member Since: 21 Mar 2010 Location: Somerset Posts: 1405 
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Raising ride height a wee bit without suspension mods is why I fitted 255 85 tyres. Not for off-roading so much as better view ahead & to the side for country jaunts. Land Rover Defenders. 67 years heritage, minimal appearance changes, still going strong all over the world. Not a fashion vehicle, but fashionable to own. Made for the needy, not the greedy. Ta ta Defender
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27th Aug 2012 12:19pm |
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| pouf Member Since: 05 Aug 2010 Location: Athens Posts: 456  
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p...p;_sacat=0
if it that, it is not so expensive www.newfoundland.gr |
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27th Aug 2012 12:33pm |
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