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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5842

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
110 Rear x member to body torx bolts
Are the two sets of torx bolts that hold the body to the x member captive or do I need to remove the tank guard to get at them ? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #150756 17th Jun 2012 6:00pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
They're captive apart from the outermost pairs at either end, which you get to behind the plastic panel at the back of the rear wheel arches. I changed mine for stainless last year and some of them were very difficult to shift, but they all came out eventually with a bit of elbow grease and plenty of WD40. For me the hardest thing was getting the screw out that holds the plastic panel on inside the wheel arch. One of them just wouldn't come out at all, rusted solid. So I had to just bend the plastic with one screw out to get and hand and spanner in behind there. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #150758 17th Jun 2012 6:03pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Just re-read your original post - are you talking about the row of bolts all the way across the bottom of the body arranged in pairs? Or something different? 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #150760 17th Jun 2012 6:08pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5842

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
The ones arranged in pairs across the back 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #150762 17th Jun 2012 6:13pm
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Andrew DefenderBits



Member Since: 15 May 2012
Location: Somerset
Posts: 43

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 HT Alpine White
These are captive, I did a set on my 110 as we sell stainless Torx bolts and I just went along one at a time removing the rusty old ones and replacing them with the new ones, a couple were really stiff coming out so I backed them out a bit then sprayed plenty of WD40 in there then wound them back in to get the WD in there and then got them out without any problems.
Post #153274 2nd Jul 2012 4:36pm
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geo.smc



Member Since: 08 Dec 2012
Location: glasgow
Posts: 7

Scotland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I always replace the rear bolt with stainless,the door hinge ones as well. if a hammer wont fix it,, then its electrical
Post #195805 22nd Dec 2012 8:28pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5842

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
This is an old thread! I have since changed the bolts. Bit of a Censored as a couple of the centre bolts sheared off and needed drilling a taping out and the others were just a struggle due to rust. All new bolts had a dab of copperslip before being installed.

Rear door bolts are yet to be done 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #195822 22nd Dec 2012 8:43pm
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