DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - How do you replace a chassis?

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > How do you replace a chassis?

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue

How do you replace a chassis?

Just wondering what work is involved, e.g. how much must be dismantled first and how long the whole thing takes.

Cheers
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

2nd Jun 2012 9:29pm

diesel_jim

Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

Depends on how you do it... If you look at ECR (East Coast Rovers) site in America, they have a system of lifting the whole body off as one piece... disconnecting everything (pipework,electrics etc) and hoisting the whole shebang about 10 feet in the air.

Then roll out the chassis, fit the axles to the new one, roll back in and refit body.

If you've only got a small garage/work place, and don't have the gantries built up, then dismantling the body piece by piece is the only other option. takes longer, but, IMO, if you're replacing the chassis for yourself, then a rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea anyway. gives you the chance to replace those rusty brackets and bolts, sort that untidy wiring, seal the floor plates etc.

As for time.... with all the kit i'd imagine you could lift the bodywork off and back on again inside a working week.

dismantling piece by piece and repainting/replacing as necessary.... couple of weeks.

2nd Jun 2012 9:33pm

Fifth Horseman

Member Since: 08 Mar 2011
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 323

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

Depends on how many hours in a day you are prepared to spend and how good your working environment is.
I managed to swap the chassis on my old 110 in just under two weeks on my drive, but could have done it quicker with better facilities/more help.
For a 110 hard top I removed and refitted the roof and sides as one unit, rear body tub as another (hint: four large strong friends are VERY useful at this point), bulkhead with all parts attached except windscreen frame.
Order of work was something like: interior trim, doors, bonnet, wings, radiator, roof & sides, body tub, seat box, bulkhead, fuel tank, engine & transmission, lift chassis off axles and suspension and then in best Haynes fashion, reassemble in the reverse order replacing parts as necessary. Getting panels to fit correctly can be fun

A good engine crane is essential.
Anything I've missed I'm sure others will fill in the gaps...

2nd Jun 2012 9:50pm

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Thanks for all the info guys - I know it's thinking way ahead but I like to be prepared

I have a beetle with a galvanised floorpan and I reckon it will last forever

Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

3rd Jun 2012 4:41am

GUM97

Member Since: 05 Feb 2012
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3555

1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Stornoway Grey

My chassis replacement has been goin on since October (admittedly I haven't given it as much time as I should have done) but its finally finished and gone to the paint shop!
It all depends on how much time and equipment you have!

3rd Jun 2012 6:19am

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum