DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - More lock required

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > More lock required

Page 3 of 3

Print this entire topic ·

T1G UP

Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey

custom90steve wrote:
Finally got round to checking and adjusting the steering lock stops today but I find that it's pretty much to the maximum I'd be happy to have it already. I can't help but think having it to close is not a good idea after all when tyre's are muddy it will bind between the tyre and the radius arm and if you were un-lucky enough to get a small stone in that gap it wouldn't be good so I'm leaving mine alone.

you've never driven off road then son!

mines now on 30mm spacers and the locks right out. doesn't rub now and is alot more stable. the down side is it flicks

up the side of the 110

anyone do 25mm spacers?

15th Jul 2012 11:50am

lambert.the.farmer

Member Since: 11 Apr 2012
Location: harrogate
Posts: 2006

land rover reccomend 20mm between tyre and radius arm which on 750's is the stops wound all the way in. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.

Last edited by lambert.the.farmer on 15th Jul 2012 12:30pm. Edited 1 time in total

15th Jul 2012 12:25pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20468

lambert.the.farmer wrote:
land rover reccomend 20mm which on 750's is the stops wound all the way in.

That's about the same measurement I had 20mm. No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

15th Jul 2012 12:27pm

familymad

Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3481

2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black

looks better with 'rally' mud 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI

15th Jul 2012 12:28pm

T1G UP

Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

familymad wrote:
looks better with 'rally' mud

no it doesn't!

my new sliders will help.

i'll get my spacers turned down

15th Jul 2012 12:56pm

richardd

Member Since: 01 Aug 2012
Location: Glasgow, sort of
Posts: 21

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 CSW Epsom Green

had my '12 110CSW for 2 days and despite being a died in the wool LR owner I didn't think of the simple answer! D'oh.

Lunchtime's job with the works forklift and 2 axle stands ..... hopefully I'll be able to out manoeuvre that super tanker this afternoon!

1st Aug 2012 8:48am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17462

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

I set mine up so that with the front axle raised on two jacks so that the front tyres were just off the ground I could just pass my fingers between the tyre and the radius arm. Having done this, when driving I get a very light rub on full lock in either forward or reverse directions of travel which I think is the result of the resilience in the suspension mountings allowing the axle to move fractionally from side to side.

To be honest I don't think that this is a problem (although there are those who say that it might be an MOT failure) since it is rare that you turn on full lock and when you do, it is at very low speed, so for now I am leaving it as it is.

Mud and stones I don't think will be a problem since the radius arm will simply scrape them off the tyre.

Before the adjustment I was running the original factory setting on the lcokstops but with 285s on Boosts with 30mm spacers, and no rubbing. The improvement in the turning circle has surprised me, the vehicle is really quite nimble now.

1st Aug 2012 9:05am

richardd

Member Since: 01 Aug 2012
Location: Glasgow, sort of
Posts: 21

blackwolf wrote:
I set mine up so that with the front axle raised on two jacks so that the front tyres were just off the ground I could just pass my fingers between the tyre and the radius arm. Having done this, when driving I get a very light rub on full lock in either forward or reverse directions of travel which I think is the result of the resilience in the suspension mountings allowing the axle to move fractionally from side to side.

To be honest I don't think that this is a problem (although there are those who say that it might be an MOT failure) since it is rare that you turn on full lock and when you do, it is at very low speed, so for now I am leaving it as it is.

I'd suggest you are getting both some movement in the bushes AND tyre flex. Given defenders propensity to rust I'd increase the stops by a shade to stop any rubbing.

I'm often moving 3500kg trailers on hard standing and tarmac so I'll not go as far as you have

1st Aug 2012 9:14am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17462

T1G UP wrote:
anyone do 25mm spacers?

T1G UP wrote:
i'll get my spacers turned down

Be careful with this, 30mm seems to be about the minimum thickness that is safe with quality spacers.

Remember that the spacer has to be thick enough to accomodate the length of the original wheel stud, and the thickness of the nuts securing the spacer to the hub and there has to be enought material between these nuts and the original hub to provide adequate strength. The spacer also has to be thick enough to hold the new studs securely.

To thin the spacers you may end up needing to shorten the original studs and fit thin nuts, then machine the front face of the spacers to reduce the thickness. This will inevitably reduce the strength of the resultant assembly and it will be very difficult indeed to know by how much without computer modelling.

There is a reason why nobody makes spacers less than 30mm thick.

1st Aug 2012 9:34am

T1G UP

Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

blackwolf wrote:
T1G UP wrote:
anyone do 25mm spacers?

T1G UP wrote:
i'll get my spacers turned down

Be careful with this, 30mm seems to be about the minimum thickness that is safe with quality spacers.

Remember that the spacer has to be thick enough to accomodate the length of the original wheel stud, and the thickness of the nuts securing the spacer to the hub and there has to be enought material between these nuts and the original hub to provide adequate strength. The spacer also has to be thick enough to hold the new studs securely.

To thin the spacers you may end up needing to shorten the original studs and fit thin nuts, then machine the front face of the spacers to reduce the thickness. This will inevitably reduce the strength of the resultant assembly and it will be very difficult indeed to know by how much without computer modelling.

There is a reason why nobody makes spacers less than 30mm thick.

i got some new wheels

1st Aug 2012 9:49am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17462

T1G UP wrote:
i got some new wheels

Undoubtedly the sensible solution!

1st Aug 2012 10:41am

Page 3 of 3

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum