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| 67_6Cyl Member Since: 10 Feb 2010 Location: France Posts: 97  
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Hi all,
2007 TDCi, 110 SW (not that it matters) Driving home tonight with headlights on I lost all lights (dash / side and headlights). Switching everything off, and back on again i have working dash and side lights, but then when I try the headlights I lose everything again. There is no difference if I try dipped or main beam, neither work, and both cause the loss of loss of dash and side lights. All the fuses are ok. Now, I don't have any idea what would cause this. Where do you guys reccommend that I start looking before I take it to the stealers? Thanks guys, any help would be appreciated. Jon |
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3rd Feb 2012 6:31pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471  
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Check the main light switch on the column, Defender wiring being what it is the switch contacts have been known to burn out. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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3rd Feb 2012 7:02pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436  
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we had this also lately and i looked a bit closer to the switch,
what happens is that the plastic plate (which on older models was a printboard type material) where the lower contacts are pressed in (some of rivet style system) melts and the contact point simply sinks down under the switch spring pressure till it sits so low the upper contact plate cannot reach it anymore. You dont have to buy a new switch (not that they are expensive but it will fail again). Put a dot of solder on the contact so it makes contact again and wire in a relay and your issues are solved. Try driving a long trip with the lights on, you'll see it wont matter how old or new your switch is. Our new one failed after about 5 hours of driving. just my 2cents  |
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3rd Feb 2012 7:14pm |
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| 67_6Cyl Member Since: 10 Feb 2010 Location: France Posts: 97
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Thanks guys.
It's -10 outside, so it can wait untill tomorrow I think! It doesn't sound like a major job. Cheers Jon |
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3rd Feb 2012 7:35pm |
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| 67_6Cyl Member Since: 10 Feb 2010 Location: France Posts: 97
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Forcast -15 tonight! I assume that the back of the switch has standard connectors, so it will be a quick job to take it out...... So that I can mend it in the warmth of the kitchen........... Jon |
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3rd Feb 2012 8:36pm |
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| 67_6Cyl Member Since: 10 Feb 2010 Location: France Posts: 97
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Thanks guys.
Switch out, blob of solder on, and back in, in less than 45 minutes including procrastination and making a steering wheel puller. It was only the rivet/pin for the main beam that had melted and sunk into the PVC. Judicious application of heat from the back, pin pushed back into place, and a blob of solder to hold it onto the brass plate that connects the three outermost pins. Now I have working lights again. Once again, tanks for the quick and accurate diagnosis. Jon |
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5th Feb 2012 9:59am |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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out of interest, have you upgraded your bulbs ?
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5th Feb 2012 6:48pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5006
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Had this happen on my TD5
 Did the same fixed with solder. I keep meaning to buy a spare as an easy fix on the road, crazy price for the new part though  Think it is £40 or £70  |
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5th Feb 2012 10:08pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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BPman: I do, the osram night breakers but they are theoretically the same wattage as original.
For the solder solution, dont forget to wire in a relay or you're going to have the same problem in short time. I looked at the cabling and sizing is not the problem (a bit on the weak side i agree, but for normal bulbs sufficient) To my opinion the contacts of the switch are the biggest trouble, i have my relay wired and hidden next to the switch itself, no need for new wiring and takes the strain from the switch. No more re-soldering in the future. |
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5th Feb 2012 10:43pm |
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| 67_6Cyl Member Since: 10 Feb 2010 Location: France Posts: 97
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No, the masochist in me likes the 55W glow-worms. Jon Ps when I have the time, I might put them on a relay. |
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5th Feb 2012 10:59pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069
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I have piaa extreme brilliance / white blah blah .. 55/60Ws that are really white but cost €70 but still cheaper than LED headlights !
in fact, I saw an Austrian Defender in the UK on Saturday night running LED headlights and they had filled up with snow .. whilst my H4 PIAA filament bulbs were warm enough to melt the snow ... |
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5th Feb 2012 11:27pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20135
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whilst my H4 PIAA filament bulbs were warm enough to melt the snow ...[/quote]
Not a fan of LED lighting full stop to be honest seems a lot of hype! tried a LED reversing light bulb at it seems duller and less bright than standard. not for me |
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5th Feb 2012 11:44pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17214 
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given that some folk wil spend £70 on the bulbs, it doesn't seem quite so bad for the switch. Genuine Lucas switches are generally available for much less that the same part in a Landrover box. Trouble is there's no telling if it's the dip switch or the on/off switch that's going to melt first, and the dip switch is a steering-wheel-off job to replace, not ideal at the side of the road. A dodge that has got be out of trouble with a melted dip switch before now is to short out the dim-dip resistor, so dip beam was on in the sidelights-on position. Obviously this only works on models with the useless dim-dip feature though. The best solution is to do what Landrover should have done in the first place, and add a relay into both dip and main headlight circuits. I have trouble comprehending why they still run the full headlight current through the two switches; I imagine that Landrover is by now possibly the only car maker in the world to do this! |
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6th Feb 2012 12:01pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069
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agreed, my €70 PIAAs are 55/60W's so the same draw as your regular hellas or phillips. would make much more sense to put a relay in for dip as well as full  |
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6th Feb 2012 12:34pm |
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