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| DuncanS Member Since: 06 Dec 2013 Location: Cumbria Posts: 299   
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As far as I'm aware it won't even kick in if it doesn't see the correct pressure in the system. I need to get some investigation done on mine as it held vacuum on a test for a couple of hours but has still dropped its coolant already. Probably a condenser swap I'm guessing. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader
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13th Jun 2023 1:52pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 361 |
When my AC was drained because of some work to be performed and they forgot to refill ist, it behaved like you described, no clutch engagement. So DuncanS is right and you should not worry. |
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13th Jun 2023 2:26pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1043  
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I did a fair bit of my AC work when I lived in America - the land of the free. Typically the systems are simple and are easy to work on responsibly without ruining the environment. In Europe they just like to regulate everything to protect vested interests, and they do this by telling people 'its complicated' as if AC technicians need master degree.
In the olden days every system was the same (R134A with On-Off clutch driven compressor, evaporator and condenser fan, a pressure switch and maybe a thermostat against icing). Nowadays its more computer driven with more inputs and possibly a variable displacement compressor, but obviously the concept is the same. Your AC compressor is relying on the gas in the system to circulate the oil and receive lubrication. The system has a pressure switch (probably more, but only really needs a hi and low pressure switch) which interlocks the compressor pump engagement if the amount of gas in the system is too low. You can jumper that to engage the clutch to test it, but it is probably best to just have the system evacuated and charged. I am not sure what the Puma has, but on my Td5 it's a conventional engagement clutch where the pulley spins freely and the clutch connects the compressor shaft to the pulley. You can spin the clutch part (compressor) by hand and there should be a slight resistance, but not much as you are not building any pressure by hand. Not sure what made you decide to change the compressor. Normally a failing compressor is noisy (as in bearing etc noises) or leaking gas. When it fails proper it sends shrapnel into system which is a pain to remove, typically requiring dismantling. Replacing a (properly) failed compressor without cleaning the system is just asking for more failures. Mostly the issues with AC systems are gas leaking out or electrical issues. To find out if your compressor is working correctly you need to hook up (low and high) pressure gauges and measure the pressures with compressor and fans running, assuming there is gas in there of course. Obviously in Europe this is a capital offense so not something I recommend you do. I am sure your friendly neighbourhood AC expert can help you diagnose. |
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13th Jun 2023 2:54pm |
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| Polarismd Member Since: 13 Feb 2022 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 62
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Hi,
I did just have it regassed, the engineer said it was holding gas and I get no warning on ODB (which I am assuming I would get as the pressure sensor appears to be connected to the ECU). Trying to find a decent Air Conditioning engineer is very difficult. Thanks for the advice so far. Chris |
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13th Jun 2023 3:08pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1043
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If it has gas, but the compressor clutch is not engaging don't suspect the pump is faulty necessary. The clutch could be faulty, but most likely it is not getting power. Anyway you should be able to change the clutch in situ, which saves you having to regass.
Had a quick look at a puma AC compressor on line and they look to be your standard Sanden rotary compressor with on-off clutch. To test the compressor you should able to power up the clutch with a 12v feed and you can hear it engage ( click) you can do this without the engine running, or with teh engine running at which point you should even create some cold air.. Alternatively you can put a meter or test light across the connector and see if 12v is reaching the compressor clutch. If there is no power you found your issue and can start tracing back the relay etc. |
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13th Jun 2023 5:12pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365 
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Try calling Clayton Classics in Coventry.
They design and fit AC to classic cars and were brilliant in sorting out an issue on my truck when nobody else could. TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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13th Jun 2023 6:04pm |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 566 
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Some useful AC information here.
https://ministryofdefender.co.uk/downloads...ersion.pdf |
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14th Jun 2023 2:26pm |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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That info is for their aftermarket retrofit AC system (which I have fitted and needed Clayton Classics to improve to reach optimal performance). That document does not relate to factory land rover AC TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread
2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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14th Jun 2023 7:50pm |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 566
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Yes I know it's not the factory system.
The document does however provide useful information on how an A/C system works and typical electrical connections. Useful background reading. I was just trying to be helpful. |
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15th Jun 2023 10:11am |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
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 didn't mean to imply otherwise!
I had a lot of issues with that unit until Clayton's sorted it out for me so I was just trying to emphasise that is not standard LR That said, when working properly it is a super efficient HVAC system which I now have tipping out cold air at 1-2C which is a real win, particularly for anyone doing a Puma dash conversion TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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15th Jun 2023 12:32pm |
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| Polarismd Member Since: 13 Feb 2022 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 62
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Hi
I shorted the compressor as recommended by Texas Rover, and I have bypassed the fan relay. Air conditioning works, not brilliant but it's cold. The fault looks like R100 or both the compressor and fan relay have failed. However both click when attached directly to 12v battery. I am a little confused as to the location of R100? Or indeed the locations of the pressure switch, trinary etc? Does anyone have that info? Thanks Chris |
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17th Jun 2023 10:39am |
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| Millerdark Member Since: 16 Sep 2015 Location: Berkshire Posts: 25 
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If you go to the following site. It provides details and location.
https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-2007/R100 |
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26th Jun 2023 11:04am |
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| Polarismd Member Since: 13 Feb 2022 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 62
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Hi,
I just thought I would update on this. It turns out it was the condenser. It was holding gas but had been pinched by a stone that lodged between the vane, in exactly the same location as a broken slat on the grill. It wasn't visible because the fan blade covered it. A fluke. What I am still confused about is why the A/C wouldn't work if the system was holding gas. I found a replacement condenser on ebay that fits the Puma perfectly, except it is much larger. And requires a 14" fan rather than the 12" one. The A/C engineer regassed with 625g and all is well. Anyone out there looking for a stainless steel frame to fit around the original? I have one for sale. Thanks for all the assistance. Chris |
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12th Jul 2023 6:54am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414  
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I think the Defender condenser is just a length of flat tubing that 'serpentines', so the refrigerant flows through the condenser tubing kind of in series. If one of the pipes is pinched, then the whole condenser will be blocked, and there could be excessive pressure on the compressor. I do not know if the pressure switch can detect this and protects the system. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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12th Jul 2023 7:20am |
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