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MattyEssex



Member Since: 23 Jul 2021
Location: Essex
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Indus Silver
Oil Warning Light - Puma 2.4
The oil light started flickering Monday, Wednesday drove the car after 10mins the Oil Light came on. Checked oil levels and seems ok.
Looked under the car this evening and there is def an oil leak somewhere but not enough to empty all the oil. There is also a coolant leak that seems
To be coming from near the oil pressure sensor only a slight drip every 10mins probably.
I have cleaned the oil pressure sensor as was soaked in oil.

Speaking with Broadfields garage where my car goes for maintenance he advised me not to drive the car as could be the oil pump and the damage it will cause if the chain comes off, issue is earliest he can look at it is beginning of August and the car is my daily.

Any advice on what it could be apart from the cleaning the sensor or oil pump, I’ve check the pipes and they all look intact. Seems to be coming from the top of the engine as appears fresh oil on the top where the bolts are.

Few pictures for reference although it is wetter than what they make it look.



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Post #998946 6th Jul 2023 6:37pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3430

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
I would not drive it either as would result in serious damage to the engine if the low oil pressure warning light is doing its job correctly.

However there could be the possibility that either the oil pressure switch is defective or the wiring has developed a short to ground. Oil pressure switch, LR004410 is not too expensive and very easy to replace. It is located on the side of the oil filter housing. Good to trace the wire from it as far as you can get along in the harness making sure it is not chafed at any location that could cause a short to ground.

If the above is all good, and still have the low oil pressure light coming on, you could connect a pressure gauge in the location where the pressure switch is located and check that there is good oil pressure, especially when engine is warm. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #998950 6th Jul 2023 6:57pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17458

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
On a couple of occasions over the last 10 years the OPWL has stayed on on my 2.4 Puma on start-up. On both occasions the oil level has been fine and there has been no indication that there is a genuine lack of pressure. Cycling the ignition seemed to reset the OPWL on both occasions.

I suspect that the switch occasionally sticks, or has an intermittent connection, or there is some other random electrical fault.

It is however certainly disturbing when the OPWL comes on.
Post #998979 6th Jul 2023 9:59pm
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MattyEssex



Member Since: 23 Jul 2021
Location: Essex
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Indus Silver
I’m thinking of changing the oil pump myself, from what I have seen it is not a big job but would certainly help it being on a ramp.

Has anyone done this themselves and if so a recommended replacement oil pump to use?
Post #999001 7th Jul 2023 6:43am
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1628

United Kingdom 
i wouldn't drive it until it's checked out.

would test oil pressure with a gauge 1st and then maybe swap the switch.

oil dilution is an issue with modern engines and longer service intervals.
Post #999004 7th Jul 2023 7:07am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17458

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
What's the mileage on the engine?

On the 2.4 (which this appears to be) the oil pump is conventional (it's not the troublesome variable volume pump that the 2.2 has) so is generally pretty reliable. It is chain driven, but a failure of the chain will cause a complete and irreversible loss of oil pressure, so it is unlikely that that has happened. If there is no oil pressure from the pump, it is unlikely that the engine will be leaking oil since without pressure a leak would have to be gravity fed. Similarly since the 2.4 has no DPF it is relatively unlikely to have an oil dilution problem unless of course there is an injector fault. It should be relatively easy to check for oil dilution.

Temporarily connecting an oil pressure gauge is the only sure-fire way to see if there is a genuine pressure issue.

Changing the oil pump is a sufficiently involved job to mean that you don't want to do it speculatively.
Post #999039 7th Jul 2023 9:47am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2048

United Kingdom 
I suspect you have a few unrelated issues. Slight oil leak, slight coolant leak and the oil pressure light coming on.

On the oil light coming on , as per Dinnu’s post, change the oil pressure switch. You don’t need to purchase from landrover, just one from a reputable manufacturer. Oil pressure switches do go faulty as they are just a diaphragm that moves due to oil pressure and then makes an electrical contact. Normally extending an earth to the ECU. I expect that’s the case for the defender oil pressure switch but would need to check the wiring diagrams to confirm. The diaphragm can get gummed up or a pin hole in it and present the symptoms you highlight.

So drain the oil, remove the connector, give the connector a clean, replace the switch, refill with fresh oil and new filter and start the engine. If the light goes out and stays out then it was a faulty switch. If not switch off engine immediately. If engine light out then you can gently increase revs listening carefully for any rattles, especially cam chain rattle sounds. Again if rattles turn off engine.

If everything sounds ok and oil pressure light is out then it’s time to investigate oil leak and coolant leak.
Post #999046 7th Jul 2023 11:07am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17458

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
On a slightly related note, a couple of years ago (during the COVID-19 hiatus) I did a stack of overdue work on my TD5 Disco 2, things like injector seals, fixed the leaking coolant plug under the manifold, replacing broken exhaust manifold studs, replacing the warped exhaust manifold with a de-webbed one, all routine stuff on a TD5.

During the course of this I found that the wire connected to the OPWL switch had broken and as a result was completely detached from the switch. On the Disco the warning light on the dash still does the ignition-on comfort check then goes out even with the switch disconnected. The ECM isn't clever enough to know that the switch isn't connected at all (which actually surprised me), there were no DTCs, and the first I would have know if there had been a complete loss of oil pressure would probably have been engine components hitting the road surface. But being blissfully ignorant of all this I didn't worry at all, until I found the broken wire! Rolling with laughter

I don't know what happens if the switch is disconnected on the 2.4 Puma, but I rather imagine it is the same.
Post #999050 7th Jul 2023 11:44am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17458

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
On the Puma the OPWL switch is connected to the ECM, and there is no OPWL connection to the IPAC so the ECM to IPAC dialogue must be via the CANbus. Potentially therefore a flickering OPWL could be caused by an ECM, CANbus, or IPAC fault as well as a switch fault (or of course low oil pressure).

It is however very much more likely to be a switch fault, assuming that it is a spurious warning, especially if the oil services have been neglected.
Post #999053 7th Jul 2023 11:53am
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spudfan



Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4718

Ireland 
They engine oil leak is most likely coming from the manifold. It can be sometimes mistaken for the washers on the injectors needing replacement as the oil from both problems travels the same path. If you look carefully if it is the manifold problem you will see the oil before the injectors. I had this problem on a 2008 Puma. I left it to a maindealer who not unreasonably diagnosed the injector washers being faulty but they were wrong. If they had cleaned off the oil after they changed the injector washers they would have seen the cause of the issue. An independent spotted it straight away and dealt with it accordingly. It is not an expensive fix.
https://www.lrdirect.com/lr018370-seal 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai
Post #999198 8th Jul 2023 1:14pm
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