 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Bleeding ABS? |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17431   
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Once air has entered the ABS modulator you really have no option but to do a modulator bleed with a suitable diagnostic tool.
If the only air is downstream of the modulator then you can bleed the brakes in the conventional way. |
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24th Jun 2023 8:58am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4216 
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Blackwolf - have you experience of doing the modulator bleed? I’m trying to understand what is supposed to happen as I’m not sure it was functioning correctly when I did it. I couldn’t get any fluid to issue from the calliper nipple during the power bleed. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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24th Jun 2023 9:09am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17431
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No, I'm afraid not. My Defender is (thankfully) non-ABS, and although my Disco2 has ABS I've always managed to avoid needing to bleed the modulator, despite replacing all the brake lines etc downstream of it.
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24th Jun 2023 9:15am |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917  
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I suspect I have air there because all the lines were disconnected from the unit and replaced with new
Hoping that there would have been a way to do it, I have an UltraGauge and pretty sure it won’t do anything other than read and I also have a BAS OBD which will change maps and read/clear fault codes etc. Nanocom the best option? As Bluest said I suppose it activates the ABS to pump fluid out? 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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24th Jun 2023 9:23am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4216
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Hi Bear, I used a Nanocom to try to do it after disconnecting my pump to replace the shuttle valve. I had tried using a pressure bleeder already but the pedal didn’t feel firm enough. I followed the WSM procedure for the power bleed and I could hear the pump activating, but I couldn’t get it to bleed anything through. In the end I just did it the old fashioned way with a volunteer foot hard on the pedal starting furthest away and it’s been fine.
I haven’t heard from anyone who’s actually done a power bleed successfully or otherwise, so I’m not sure whether I was doing it wrong or what. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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24th Jun 2023 9:41am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2103 
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I have completed a power bleed successfully after replacing the ABS unit.
Earlier work downstream allowed me to carry out the conventional bleed as Blackwolf suggests, but once you have air in the modulator you probably have no real choice other than power bleed - acknowledging though that Bluest has had success. I simply followed the Nanocom instructions but it did take quite a few attempts. Just a point. When I replaced my modulator I did cap off all pipes to prevent as much fluid loss as possible, and reduce the awful mess, but the new modulator was obviously full of air. I can see that someone could manually operate the internal solenoids and valves within a modulator to carry out a conventional bleed but that’s beyond my expertise and patience! Good luck 🤞 |
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24th Jun 2023 10:18am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2103
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Just re-read your post.
I’m not sure that you’d actually have to bleed your modulator as if you’ve not technically interfered with it. You might have perhaps let some air in when replacing pipes but it won’t have got past the first closed valve? Might be worth using an Eezibleed or similar? I’m a bit anal and always cap off brake pipes at the nearest union upstream when I can (I made a few caps and dead legs using brake pipe fittings) but not really sure if it makes any difference 🤪 |
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24th Jun 2023 10:24am |
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| John P Member Since: 26 Dec 2013 Location: West Sussex Posts: 322 
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Hi there, I want to get the same Pioneer 4x4 kit for my 2.4 110 XS 2010 Puma, but am confused at their website. I see that there are different kits, one from 2007 to 2010 and then another kit from 2011 to 2016. Looking at the schematic diagrams, the 2011 looks more correct for my car by the ABS layout. Although I have a 2010 registered car, the VIN states a build of 2011, as in "BA". So which kit did you buy for your's? FBLK - 35 or FBLK - 36? https://www.pioneer4x4.com/products/brakin...r-110-rhd/ Thanks John |
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21st May 2024 9:43am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 740  
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It is also for me suspected that there may be air in the ABS modulator but no way to purge it now. It was suggested to find an isolated stretch of road and get the ABS to engage so that the air will be pushed out. It was advised to do this several times to be sure.
My brakes are spongy to none first few minutes after a cold start or when cruising along for a long time so I allow for greater braking distance and pump the pedal until the brakes work properly again. Is this related? Do I need new brake lines as mine were submerged in rubber eating water? Incidentally, I now have an IIDTool BT unit but have not tried the ABS modulator purge thing yet. |
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22nd May 2024 6:15am |
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