 | Home > Td5 > Engine removal |
 
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1090   
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Remove radiator and intercooler first ( assuming no AC ) this will make access much easier. Otherwise pretty straight forward job
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31st Jan 2023 1:42pm |
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| Jim88er Member Since: 12 Jan 2022 Location: East Sussex Posts: 11  
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It has got air conditioning. Would you remove the front grill too?
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31st Jan 2023 2:25pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3431  
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Not removed a Td5, but removed an early engine without removing the radiator... but my engine hoist could not clear the radiator so removed the front wheels and dropped the front end as far it could go. In hindsight, I should have removed the radiator as the coolant was already drained, but since you have AC you might try to move the compressor out of the way and save you re gassing if you keep the rad in place.
The LT77 and transfer case combo balanced quite well on their mountings, So I trust that the R380 will balance just as fine. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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31st Jan 2023 5:29pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1090
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Sorry yes including front grille. But with AC you obviously want to try and preserve the gas and as said remove the compressor from the bracket and leave it in place. Although it is not cramped by modern standards, after removing the radiator it took me maybe an hour to have the engine out with a standard engine hoist. The bell house bolts are very accessible with the engine sitting up front so removed the engine seperately. Even thinking changing a clutch could simpler this way, if like me you getting a little too old to wrestle a gearbox on a jack in the drive. |
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31st Jan 2023 8:26pm |
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