 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Spray on sound deadening as well as dynamat? |
 
|
|
|
| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 377   
|
I've done my sound deadening in stages, so it's been interesting to see what difference each stage made.
Mine's a 2014 110 CSW, but has matting not carpets, and a fair few areas of exposed body colour bodywork around the inside. particularly in the rear load area. I must call out that the various stages were primarily due to time and opportunity (and other works being carried out), rather than a particular plan of which pieces were more important to tackle. 1. Roof. This got a layer of Dodo mat butyl rubber sheets, and a layer of 6mm Dodo super liner closed cell foam. the odd area got an extra layer of foam too. This made quite a big difference, most noticable at motorway speeds. It's also helped with some heat transfer on hot days, although with a white roof, mine was never that bad in that space. 2. Doors. These got a full layer of Dodo mat butyl rubber sheets, and a layer of 6mm Dodo super liner closed cell foam. The door cards also got some areas of the matting. The matting was done 1st (the liner was out of stock) and then the foam followed a week or so later. Both layers made a difference to noise in the cab. Again, most noticeable at higher speeds. 3. Floors. These all got both matting and foam liner, and then the original matting refitted back over the top. This made a big difference. 4. Boot floor. This got matting, foam liner and a layer of (heavy!) Mass Loaded Vinyl. The biggest difference this made was on faster roads/motorways. Longer motorway journeys were getting less fatiguing at this point. 4. Front Seatbox and Transmission tunnel. So far this has only had dodo mat applied. I ran out of time and needed to put the seats back in, so the liner will follow. I know I need to be careful with the original vinyl matting being fairly close fitting, so I wanted to take my time with the foam liner to make sure it all fits ok. The matting had made a noticeable difference to noise at all speeds. 5. Underbonnet. This got dodo matting, and then a specialist 20mm foam liner. This quietened down the engine noise a bit, but possibly less impact in the cabin than I'd hoped. It makes a bigger difference outside the car though. Next on the list are: The liner over the seat box and transmission tunnel. I'm optimistic that this will make some of the biggest improvements in cabin noise. The front bulkhead (again this will get both matting and foam liner), I'll take the dash out and take the opportunity to renew all the wiper and washer mechanisms at the same time. After that, the only bits left are behind the trim around the windows in the rear, and the body sides/wheel wells. But if I do those, I'll have to the carpet (or something) the rear as these are all currently visible body colour. I quite like the body colour bits, so these would definitely be the last bits I do. It's still noisy, and certainly no range rover (my previous car was an L322 range rover), but it's a nicer place to spend time now. I spend more time on the road than I used to, and I appreciate the difference. It takes a lot of time though, it'd cost a fortune to pay a company to fully deaden one! hope some of that is helpful to others! |
||
12th Jan 2023 4:24pm |
|
| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 486
|
We Raptor floors, bulkhead and inside back body and hardtop. Then use Lizard skin acoustic spray on coating followed by Lizard skin thermal barrier. The Lizard skin really does make a big difference both in noise and harshness and stabalising inside temperatures. We follow up with a conventional butyl panel centre damper too.
|
||
|
12th Jan 2023 4:42pm |
|
| Lightwater Member Since: 28 Jun 2020 Location: Sydney NB Posts: 71 
|
I disagree with this. The Freelander is basically a quiet car to start with. I initially put the typical 10 - 12mm open cell foam in the ceiling. I have removed the interior about 6 times. I was very surprised at the improvement adding an additional 25mm of open cell foam. So now have about 45mm in the ceiling. The Defender has a massive roof area so you really need a lot of & thick open cell foam Stick a bit of butyle on the flat section of the roof, but no point going overboard. It's a waste of money & adds too much mass reducing your payload unnecessarily. My latest addition is to stuff in open cell foam around the hinge clearance area of the rear seats. We rarely fold them down. If we do I can whip out the foam blocks. The foam in this area has a noticeable difference. Fill any area with open cell foam to get the thickest possible amount of foam. Visitor - Freelander owner |
||
|
12th Jan 2023 10:43pm |
|
| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365 
|
A couple of people have mentioned the Wright Offroad matting and I am considering that as my "final layer".
I have silent coat (butyl) on all surfaces and then Dodo thermal liner 5mm on the floors, transmission tunnel, top of seatbox, front of seatbox (by your feet), but NOT on the sides of the seatbox to leave a gap to the door cards. Any views if the Wright Offroad matting will fit over the existing layers of soundproofing?  Click image to enlarge TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
||
|
13th Jan 2023 9:09am |
|
| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
|
Chaps, any thoughts if the Wright Offroad mats will fit over my existing insulation, per the pic above? TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread
2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
||
|
17th Jan 2023 6:24pm |
|
| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 568 
|
The mats to require a bit of trim to fit, so there is some scope for adjustment.
Give them a call, they were very helpful when I spoke to them. |
||
|
17th Jan 2023 7:58pm |
|
| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
|
Will do. Because I have an upgraded Puma interior including transmission tunnel I need to see if I can just order the Puma mats or if I'll need to mix and match TD5 seatbox mats with Puma floor mats.. TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread
2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
||
|
18th Jan 2023 3:00pm |
|
| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
|
As above. If I remember correctly it took a good Saturdays worth of effort to remove the seats, fit and trim the mats and get the seat back in. You will need a good longish straight edge, multiple Stanley blades and a stepper drill bit to drill out the holes for the bolt heads etc. The stepper leave an excellent chamfered edge to the holes, looks really neat. |
||
|
18th Jan 2023 3:08pm |
|
| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365
|
Thanks for the advice.
I was concerned that my existing sound/heat insulation might change the dimensions of the seatbox and the floor panels and that the tailored mats wouldn't fit Sounds like it should be OK but I will call them to discuss TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop Last edited by andy2111 on 18th Jan 2023 3:42pm. Edited 1 time in total |
||
|
18th Jan 2023 3:36pm |
|
| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
|
Best plan. Drew (of WOR) is a nice bloke and is quick on the emails.
 |
||
|
18th Jan 2023 3:40pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
