 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Timing Chain snapped |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3387   
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Landrover themselves fitted helicoils on the early windscreen hinges. That is because with helicoils and similar thread repair inserts, the new thread is stronger due to the larger diameter (increased shear area) than the original sized thread. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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29th Dec 2022 7:29am |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39  
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Thanks Dinnu
I am going to start this over the New Year and will post updates so it can help others in the future. My big question is if I can do this without taking the Camshaft Carrier off (if that is what the aluminium body is). It look as if I need to strip off the inlet and turbo plus the outlet. Quite a job for one bolt. I guess it is only time but still quite a job! I uploaded the wrong image last time. This one shows the missing bolt. In the middle on the inlet side.  Click image to enlarge |
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29th Dec 2022 12:24pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17290 
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If you do it in situ you will need to be very careful about the swarf.
The lower half of the camshaft bearings are formed in the cylinder head, and the upper half in the camshaft carrier. The plate in your photo (which the WSM simply calls the "aluminium support") appears to be bolted to the top half of the cam carrier - it doesn't look as though the bolts pass through the cam carrier into the head. It may be possible to remove the cam carrier without disturbing the camshafts but you would need to remove the timing cover (which means renewing it since it is not reusable) and probably de-tension the timing chain. It would then, I think, be possible to unbolt the cam carrier from the head an lift it off, leaving the camshafts in place (of course the "aluminium support", and the lash adjuster/rocker arm assemblies would have to be removed first). This may make it easier to deal with the damaged threads and the mullered bolt without dropping swarf into places you really don't want it. Another point to bear in mind is that since the camshaft runs in bearings formed in both the head and the cam carrier is is highly likely that they are bored for the camshaft bearings as an assembly and that the cam carrier is not replaceable on its own. Good luck with the job, however you decide to go about it. |
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29th Dec 2022 5:12pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 361 |
The chain is tensioned by the oil pressure acting on the chain tensioner. So a lack of oil pressure will lead to a sloppy chain. Always good to monitor oilpressure with an additional gauge. |
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2nd Jan 2023 3:14pm |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
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Quick update. It is not what I though it was. It is much worse!
It seems as if one of the lifters on the exhaust side has completely snapped off and segments of metal are now loose and probably within the engine. I have not recovered all the pieces. Have a look at the attached images. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The one that has snapped has seriously disrupted the cam on the one next to it. Please can I have some thoughts on what I should do. I am concerned about the actual cause. Could it have been caused by a stuck valve? I am concerned by the loose metal fragments. Is this a complete strip down? What a bummer! PS the cam carrier was tight and had not moved at all. |
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2nd Jan 2023 9:33pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 361 |
In my opinion, this *could* be caused by the snapped chain and the piston coming into contact with the valve, the rocker arm breaking. Possibly designed as a predetermined breaking point for this case. Anyway, I would now dismantle everything except the cylinder head to find all the broken parts, clean and check it and rebuild it with the necessary new components.
Frankly, the approach is a bit shirtsleeve, and accepting a missing screw is not good either. You now definately need the workshop manual with the necessary adjustment instructions and specifications for torques etc. to be able to work properly here. It is not that easy. And take your time. What do the astronauts say: there is nothing so bad that you cannot make it worse |
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4th Jan 2023 4:23pm |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
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Hello Hornet
This sounds like a plausible reason for it to have happened. Thanks for your thoughts on this. As you said, this is a fair amount of work. I am no mechanic either but am practical as I am a blacksmith by trade. With the cost of these parts running up to maybe £800-900, I am considering a re-co engine. I have only every had one re-conditioned engine in my life (put in an old VW) and this was a disaster - so I need to think carefully about what to do. I think that if I could be confident that all the metal fragments will work there way to the oil filter, then I would be up for doing the work. However if there is a chance that some of the fragments may cause a seizure in 6 months time, then I would be very nervous doing it. Any thoughts on the above please my friends? Thanks for all your help and advice. |
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5th Jan 2023 11:00am |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 997  
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There are a lot of perfectly fine engines in scrapyards from accident vehicles or rust/MOT failure. These engines are referred to a Transit engines, not sure how compatible they are but you WOULD think you can get a used engine for fairly cheap and drop that in giving years and years of good service. The times of worn cylinder liners at 100k are long behind us.
Reconditioned engines are not a sure bet. Sure you can get legitimately reconditioned engines from reputable sellers but they will be expensive. Cheap overhauls use cheap parts and are equally prone to failure as an untouched good used engine. In fact I would rather not have someone open up an engine unless they would be true experts ($$). So I say start looking for a used engine and get as much info as you can. |
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5th Jan 2023 12:02pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1960
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As you have all the ancillary parts perhaps a new defender spec base engine https://www.mdengineering.co.uk/2-4-2-2-tdci-engines/.
Of course many will now point you to a bmw engine conversion, but that’s more involved. |
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5th Jan 2023 1:46pm |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
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Thanks. I have heard that the transit engine is different in as much as the sump and the fan. Can anyone clarify this?
I agree that re-cons are a gamble. The cost of a new one - after I have factored in all the work on the current one is not so terribly expensive that I should not consider it. Mmmm.... what to do! |
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5th Jan 2023 3:06pm |
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