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macfrank

Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1076

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

MussEd wrote:
Can’t see me ever getting a caravan so don’t need the full functionality of the 13 pin electrics but do quite fancy this as a method of charging/battery maintenance whilst the vehicle is locked up. Been trying to investigate other exterior connection options but this seems the neatest solution.

It's also useful to power external 12V accessories. We also don't have a caravan, so I had to come up with another purpose, such as this:

Click image to enlarge

Replaced the 12V mains adapter with a 13 pin tow plug.
Bonus #1: blue, green, yellow and red LEDs have different forward voltages (i.e. the voltage needed to light up), so this also acts as a battery voltage gauge

Bonus #2: will also work as backup christmas illumination even if there's a blackout

22nd Nov 2022 11:18am

MussEd

Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 354

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Baltic Blue

blackwolf wrote:
I take a mains extension lead into the front passenger footwell simply by closing the door on it, the fit of Defender doors making this possible without cable damage. The charger is the in plain sight so driving off with the cable in place isn't a risk. As long as the charger and mains socket aren't left on the floor it's even safe in the rain.

I’ve driven a fire appliance out of the station whilst still on charge. Thought it was an auto-eject plug. It was not.

22nd Nov 2022 1:11pm

LR Nuts

Member Since: 10 Aug 2022
Location: UK
Posts: 1119

Yes I use these, recommended by ambulance services for a quick get away.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373011338574?ha...R-DGhPuTYQ

22nd Nov 2022 2:17pm

MussEd

Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 354

Ooh saw these elsewhere - how have you utilised them LR, any pics?

22nd Nov 2022 3:54pm

HardCharger

Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila
Posts: 737

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

I was thinking of using two NATO sockets (front and back) and plugs for both charging and as a power point for jump staring, compressors, etc.

Will these be OK? I reckon they'd be waterproof and all that.

Where can I mount for the front? I reckon I could copy the Wolfs for the rear mount.

What do all y'all think?

23rd Nov 2022 2:05am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

I'm not sure that NATO sockets will be up to being used for jump starting. You really need something that will handle the current for that such as an Anderson connector. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

23rd Nov 2022 9:30am

LR Nuts

Member Since: 10 Aug 2022
Location: UK
Posts: 1119

the recovery services use an Anderson connector for jump starting 175Amp. Colour does not matter, as long as both connectors are the same colour for orientation.

23rd Nov 2022 9:58am

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

PowerPole to CTEK

As it happens, here is one I made earlier...

I have all of my accessories that need plugging in to a 12v supply running through Andersson PowerPole connectors. Basically mini andersson connectors of the traditional type you all know and love.

They work a treat, provide a very positive connection, simple and are easy to build in to your current accessories. I currently, oh dear, have the Waeco fridge/freezer, tyre pump, inverter and a few camp items with these connectors. This week however I adapted a CTEK charger to battery loom to include the PowerPole connectors so I can charge and maintain Miffy's twin batteries between journeys.

Click image to enlarge

Yes, the connectors are inside the vehicle, mounted in the rear of the cubby box, but chargers cable slips up and over the window under the wind deflector. If Miffy had a 12S tow socket then I would have run the charger through that, as I have done with the Freelander 2, but alas a different method is required and it works beautifully.

23rd Nov 2022 10:13am

LR Nuts

Member Since: 10 Aug 2022
Location: UK
Posts: 1119

talking of modifying Anderson connectors, I have a 175Amp mounted in the front grille. With this 'adaptor' {which I built] I can then connect the SB50 connectors.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

With this set up you can only pull 50Amps ..... MAX.

Last edited by LR Nuts on 23rd Nov 2022 11:02am. Edited 2 times in total

23rd Nov 2022 10:49am

LR Nuts

Member Since: 10 Aug 2022
Location: UK
Posts: 1119

I have also built these, if you want to know if there is power at the connector an LED glows.

Click image to enlarge

I simply drilled a hole sideways through the middle of the SB50, for both +ve and Gnd.
remove the internal terminals and pass a 12V led [with internal resistor] through either hole [remembering to get polarity correct] then re-insert the terminals with lock down the led wires and supplies power.

Click image to enlarge

23rd Nov 2022 11:00am

Mitch16

Member Since: 07 Nov 2020
Location: Surrey
Posts: 25

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey

Please can you advise if you need to disconnect the car from the battery to charge it or whether the ctek clamps clip on to the battery with everything still connected?
Trying to make it easy!

7th Dec 2022 9:33pm

macfrank

Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1076

No need to disconnect. Over winter I leave mine connected for weeks to keep the batteries charged.
Only in case you need to recondition a flat battery you should disconnect it from the car, as the CTEK will use a higher voltage which may be too high for some electronics.

7th Dec 2022 9:46pm

Mitch16

Member Since: 07 Nov 2020
Location: Surrey
Posts: 25

Mitch16 wrote:
Please can you advise if you need to disconnect the car from the battery to charge it or whether the ctek clamps clip on to the battery with everything still connected?
Trying to make it easy!

Thank you.

7th Dec 2022 10:03pm

HardCharger

Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila
Posts: 737

I have one of the M8 connectors but I can't seem to get the nut off the terminal clamps. Any suggestions on how I can do it?

If I cannot remove the nut from the bolt, I was thinking of cutting part of the connectors off to turn them to sort of fork type connectors.

What do all y'all think? Am I just missing something?

9th Dec 2022 2:14am

macfrank

Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1076

I've never had any problems getting these nuts off. However, for the positive terminal you can use an unused threaded hole:

Click image to enlarge

For the negative terminal, the ring connector may not fit underneath the nut, as it collides with the terminal stud (edit: will not fit, as it has a conic shape IIRC). You can add another nut on top, but the bolt may be too short:

Click image to enlarge

Take off the clamp, remove the bolt. You'll see it has a T-shaped head. Take a longer M8 and file its head to that shape (no picture of the actual bolt, but you get the idea

) :

Click image to enlarge

This way you can have different torques for the terminal stud and the eyelet(s) and can add/remove the connector(s) without disconnecting the battery.

9th Dec 2022 6:12am

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