![]() | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Fuel Gauge Not Working, Now Won't Start |
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dannyragsdale Member Since: 06 Oct 2022 Location: Eastern Highlands, PNG Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I just got a 2012 Defender 110 Puma and it has a fuel gauge problem. Has anyone else had a problem with their fuel gauge all of a sudden not working? Down to nothing and now the low fuel light flashes at me. I guess there is a computer control where after a certain amount of time running like this, it automatically kills it. Called a "Run Dry Prevention Control".
Does changing out the fuel sending unit fix this? Is there a bypass for this? Anyone else run into this before? And yes, the tank is completely full so I'm not rushing to drop the tank in order to start playing with the sending unit. Thanks for any advice and help! |
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ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1822 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
As an aside, its very easy to make a small inspection hatch over the sender unit through the rear floor, makes life easy for inspection and repair....
hth Keith |
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dannyragsdale Member Since: 06 Oct 2022 Location: Eastern Highlands, PNG Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Blackwolf for the more technical data. That's helpful!
Ickle: Did you do that with the tank in and do it from the top? Or did you drop the tank and then do the work so you won't have to drop the tank again? Thanks for the idea! |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17610 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It's actually not difficult to drop the tank on a 110, the 90 is much more tricky.
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dannyragsdale Member Since: 06 Oct 2022 Location: Eastern Highlands, PNG Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Ok. I'm planning on dropping the tank on Friday or Saturday and will come back with an answer if I find one.
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ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1822 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Its easy to make the hatch with the tank in place, there's a few threads on it I did it to fit a new dip tube and pump for a night heater.
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Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6642 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If you have a multimeter it would be worth popping the instrument cluster out, removing the plug and checking the resistance across the fuel tank sensor wires.
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dannyragsdale Member Since: 06 Oct 2022 Location: Eastern Highlands, PNG Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Martin: How much resistance would I find there? What is in spec? Thanks for the tip!
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Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6642 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
2.2 spec is 50 Ohms full, 1000 Ohms empty.
You could also check at the grey chassis loom connectors under the right hand seat. At the cluster you want to measure resistance between pins 8 and 31. For the chassis loom, disconnect the grey connector pair, and on the connector with male pins (this goes to the tank) test between pins 6 and 7. Wire colours are green with orange, and yellow with purple. Martin ![]() ![]() |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17610 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
^^ Useful info., do you know if it is the same for a 2.4?
The fact that the higher impedance indicates an empty tank suggests that an open circuit would be interpreted as zero fuel, unless "the system" is clever enough to know that an infinite impedance indicates a fault. |
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Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6642 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Everything 2.4 and earlier is 19 Ohms full, 270 Ohms empty.
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17610 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thank you
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dannyragsdale Member Since: 06 Oct 2022 Location: Eastern Highlands, PNG Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So I finally had time to look at things. I ended up pulling the whole fuel tank out and I honestly don't regret it. Wasn't too bad after I siphoned out the fuel.
Pulled the fuel pump out and nothing looked out of place. Pulled the multimeter out and started going at things. I started with ohming the plug on top of the fuel pump assembly and trying to test the sending unit float. I set it up and found it was completely open. Nothing at all. Was happy to find that because it meant that my sending unit was bad, right? Wrong! My friend that was helping me decided to check from the bottom side where the sending unit plug connects into the top of the fuel pump and sure enough it was perfectly like Martin said, 50 ohms full and 1000 empty. What a relief to see that and know what was wrong for sure! All that to say is that I am ordering both the fuel pump assembly and the sending unit. I'm out of commission for one of them so might as well order both and not have to worry about it for a long time. Do you guys have any suggestions on who to order from? I've been building a wish list of other things it needs on LR Workshop. It looks like I could order everything I need/want from Island 4x4 or LR Direct, but LR Direct would be about $100 USD more than Island. Anything wrong with Island 4x4 and their stuff? Thanks for all the help! |
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dannyragsdale Member Since: 06 Oct 2022 Location: Eastern Highlands, PNG Posts: 40 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The fact that I live in PNG means that parts take a long time and I was getting impatient waiting the parts get here (ordered Sunday and they still haven't processed the order or shipped it as of Wednesday night).
So I went after the pump and drenched the electrical connectors with terminal/contact cleaner and let it set for a while. Cleaned it all off. Took a small file and cleaned the connectors as much as possible. Then tested the resistance and sure enough, I was able to get a reading through the connector this time! Hooked it up to the harness and propped the float up and the gauge up front read correctly! So excited that I am able to get going again for the time being. Thanks again for all the help. |
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